How to Fish For Cold Water Pike by Darl Black

Part 1 – The Fish Known As “The Water Wolf”

Monster pike are still taken from select lakes in Canada, such as this giant caught by guide Blaine Anderson on his annual trip to God's Lake Lodge.

“Eeekkk!”  The shriek was heard ‘round the lake.  The utterance came from my wife, Marilyn, startled by alligator-like jaws that shot up and snapped shut on her spinnerbait as she lifted the lure from the water for another cast.  For a moment I thought she was going to surrender the rod to the fish, but she held on.

“Drop the rod tip, hit the free-spool button and thumb the reel,” I shouted almost as loud as her scream.  But that advice came too late.  With a quick twist of its muscular body the pike broke the line and the green monster disappeared as quickly as it appeared, but now carrying a jewelry memento in its lip.

That fishing trip to Ontario was my wife’s first encounter with northern pike.  Today, 36 years later, Marilyn still reacts with the same exclamation to an airborne strike at boat-side.  But she has learned not to attempt winching the fish over the side of the boat.  Now the majority of those last second attacks are eventually landed. 

As far as I’m concerned, shrieking is a justified response to those acrobatic mid-air strikes.  On more than one occasion, I have been known to emit a verbal utterance of surprise.  It’s all part of the fun and lore of pike fishing.

The only freshwater gamefish with circumpolar distribution (North America, Europe & Asia), scientist believe the northern pike probably evolved in Europe between 60 and 120 million years ago.  No other fish species is as steeped in mythology. 

The pike was called the “waterwolf” by early Europeans due to its evil-looking eyes.   It was once thought that pike were bred from weeds and hatched by the sun’s heat.  In medieval times, pike were blamed for attacks on swans, men and even mules that wandered into the shallows of a lake.  In some areas, pike bones were worn as talismans against witchcraft.    

In North America, the northern pike’s original range included much of Canada, down through New England, back across the Great Lakes states and into the upper Mid West.  Pike have been intentionally or accidentally transplanted to areas beyond this range.

Pike can survive in both lakes and large river systems as long water temperatures, spawning habitat and prey source are suitable.  They are among the fast-growing gamefish, literally eating machines that feed on whatever preyfish is most abundant.  With a spawning temperature in the mid 40s, and sluggish eating habits when water temperatures go above 70 degrees, the species does best in cooler and deeper waters of northern U.S. and Canada where 20-pound-plus fish are possible. 

In some regions, the northern pike is disliked by anglers targeting other species.  This is particularly true on lakes where the environment is not conducive to growing large pike.  In these fisheries, juvenile pike in the 10 to 20 inch range become a nuisance for anglers trying to catch bass or panfish. 

But you’ll never hear a complaint from anyone who has tagged a decent-size pike.  The ferocity of the strike and an acrobatic show when hooked are enjoyed by many, including my wife who looks forward to our pike-fishing outings each year during cooler water temperatures when pike are shallow and aggressive.

Visit God’s Lake Lodge

Part 2 – How to Fish for Cold Water Pike

Pike fishing is good on the lower Connecticut River from fall through late spring.

Our pike adventure this past year took us to the Connecticut River to fish with guide Blaine Anderson. I had been surprised to learn about this impressive northern pike fishery in southern Connecticut. But the pictures offered up by this knowledgeable guide was proof that big pike lived in this tidal river.

“Without question, the best pike fishing is from October to May,” explains Anderson. “In the large river, pike inhabit slack or slow-moving water areas with abundant weed growth. Some of the areas are dead-slack backwater bays, and other sites are on a main river pool where a slower current allows for weed growth. We even have a period of ice fishing for them on the river’s backwaters in January and February.”

Blaine’s pike fishing tips for the coldwater period are applicable for northern pike fisheries everywhere.

“During fall and early spring, anglers should fish lures slowly and deliberately,” explains Anderson. “Although pike feed heavily during this period, they don’t like to work hard for a meal. Retrieve lures at a slow to moderate speed so fish can intercept them easily. Cover every square foot of an area before moving on.”

Prime time for pike is below 60 degrees.

Blaine carries three rods rigged with different lures with each of the baits providing a different action and color. Before changing locations, he offers each of the baits to the resident fish. Some days the fish prefer one style of lure over another, but you can never be sure which will be the most productive bait until you have thoroughly strained the area with all three.

Lure #1 Soft Plastic Jerkbait

On one rod is a large soft plastic jerkbait between 7- and 10-inches. It will be rigged on a large offset weighed hook. The Lunker City Fin-S and Slug-Go are his favorites, often in baitfish pattern. Other times, simply switching to an outrageously bright color like bright yellow or pink might be the ticket. These lures are fished with a sub-surface sashay retrieve over submersed weedbeds. An intermittent pause in the retrieve that allows the soft plastic bait to sink slowly as if injured can be a critical trigger for a strike.

Lure #2 Hard Body Minnow

Anderson’s second rod will have a hard body minnow imitating bait that can be fished several feet below the surface. A large suspending stickbait with saltwater-quality hooks is one possibility, such as a size 14 Rapala XRap.

But he often switches from a suspending minnow bait to a jointed hard body swimbait – a style that originally was developed for big bass waters in California and Texas. The Sebile Pro Swimmer or Reaction Strike swimbait are at the top of his list.

Lure #3 Large Spoon or Spinner

For the third rod, Anderson recommends a large spoon or spinner – something with a lot of flash. From stout-wire spinnerbaits to a trusty Mepps Bucktail, flash has always been a draw for pike. Anderson would not leave home without a good-old Dardevle Spoon, which over the years in North America may have been responsible for more big pike than any single lure.

“Always fish the lure ALL the way back to the boat,” stresses Anderson. “I can’t tell you how many pike are caught right beside the boat as you are lifting the bait from the water. Explosion strikes we call them. That’s one of the things that really make pike fishing exciting.”

I admit to be being nervous when it comes to pike and lures with treble hooks. Unhooking any lure from the toothy mouth of a slippery, struggling pike is a challenge, but when two or three treble hooks are thrown into the mix, the chance of injury to the angler increases. If a single hook lure can draw the strikes, then I’m most likely going to select that one. For example, when choosing a swimbait for pike, I prefer a large profile soft body one such the Yum Money Minnow or the new Sebile Soft Swimmer.

When lures are tied directly to line under 15-pound test, pike bite offs are fairly common. Therefore some type of leader should be used. Anderson fishes 20 or 30-pound braided line with a shock leader of 50-pound fluorocarbon. He rarely loses a pike to a bite off.

When using standard bass tackle for pike, I employed a simple 15-inch black nylon-coated wire leader with a swivel on one end and a snap on the other to convert my outfit to pike fishing. However, after being introduced to the new super thin, low visibility Liquid Steel Leaders from Castalia, I am making a switch.

If you want something different from crappies or bass, check out the excitement of pike fishing on Blaine Anderson’s website.

Darl Black

About Darl Black

Angling writer and photographer Darl Black has been fishing since he was old enough to hold a cane pole.  Through a 20-year career of outdoor writing, he has been published in numerous freshwater angling magazines across the USA.

Keep up with Darl’s latest exploits at his blog

 

What do you think?  Ever catch a pike?

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Deer Hunting Tips: Ten Rules for Successful Bow Hunting

Why We Miss At The Moment of Truth!

By Bill Vaznis

It was a perfect morning. I was still-hunting along an old logging trail that opened up to an overgrown farm field behind my home in upstate New York when a hot doe stepped out in front of me. I could barely see her in the early morning darkness, but when she jumped into a nearby wood lot with her tail off to one side I thought I heard a second much larger deer grunt and then make a break for it in the opposite direction.

I slipped forward until I reached the edge of the field, and glassed across the knee-high briars and golden rod. Nothing.

I began sneaking along the edge of the field looking for the buck that I knew had to be still nearby when something caught my eye just out of bow range. It was the white throat patch of a buck. Not a big one mind you, but a racked deer nonetheless that was zigzagging his way back towards me, obviously seeking out that hot doe.

By now it was light enough to shoot, so I, too, began zigzagging across the field, trying to keep the buck in view without spooking him. At thirty yards he dropped down into an irrigation ditch. I knelt down, quietly slid an arrow from my quiver and nocked an arrow all in one fluid motion. When the buck popped back into view he was sneaking 20 yards past me at a broadside angle and oblivious to my presence.  I immediately came to full draw and focused on a spot behind his near shoulder.  When my single pin covered that patch of hide for a full second I relaxed my fingers sending a Phat Head-tipped shaft to its mark. I found the buck piled up 100 yards distant, dead from a double lung pass through.

That was my 25th whitetail tagged by still-hunting with archery tackle. I would like to say I never missed a buck once I set my sights on him, but that has not always been the case.

“I have missed some embarrassingly easy shots over the years,
but those misses have taught me what to do and not do
when the moment of truth presents itself.”

 

1. DON’T MAKE ANY LAST-MINUTE EQUIPMENT CHANGES

We must come to full draw with confidence that our equipment will function flawlessly. In some cases however that can be a false sense of security. Why? Any changes you make to your bow after it is tuned can have a deleterious effect on arrow flight.

The most common mistake is to increase your draw weight just before the big hunt, but attaching a different quiver, stabilizer, or brand of broadhead can also cause your hunting arrow to fly off into the wild blue yonder.

The solution to this problem is simple: Don’t make any last minute changes to your hunting equipment unless you have absolutely no choice. If you must, however, be sure to take a few practice shots to make sure everything is still in perfect working order before stepping afield.

2. DON’T SECOND GUESS THE SHOOTING DISTANCE

Always estimate the shooting distance before you come to full draw. Still-hunters rarely know the yardage before the animal appears, but if you hunt from a tree stand or ground blind, you can use a range finder to learn the exact yardage to several likely shooting locations before you begin your vigil.

When the moment of truth arrives however, do not change your mind and add a few yards “just in case” the buck is further away as you will surely shoot over its back. Look back over your own career, and count the number of times you underestimated the shooting distance. I will bet that that figure is quite low when compared to the number of occasions you overshot the animal.

Indeed, in the last two years I skewered two long-distance whitetails, one at 40 and the other 42 yards. I estimated the shooting distance before I came to full draw, and then stayed with my initial calculations. Your first estimate is almost always the most accurate.

3. DON’T ALLOW CLOTHING INTERFERENCE

Be sure to practice in your hunting clothing prior to the season, paying close attention to anything that can interfere with arrow flight such as unbuttoned pockets, puffy arm sleeves and draw strings on hooded sweatshirts. However, we can still manage to get an arrow off course by adding something to our attire later on when we finally step into the field.

Pinning a compass to your jacket for example is a sure way to get it ripped off by the bow string. Not only will you destroy your compass, but it will also deflect an otherwise perfect shot. Get into the habit of tucking grunt tubes and binoculars inside your shirt or jacket and out of harm’s way. And keep your compass in your back pack.

4. PRACTICE UNORTHODOX SHOOTING ANGLES

It makes little difference if you bow hunt from a tree stand, ground blind or on foot, sooner or later you will be presented with a difficult shooting opportunity. The buck may pass behind your tree stand for example or you may have to shoot from a hunched position on foot or from inside your ground blind.

What can you do about it? Do not limit your pre-season practice sessions to standing shots on level ground at 20 yards. Try stump shooting at unknown distances from sitting and kneeling positions or climb into a tree stand and practice shooting around the tree’s trunk from awkward angles. These exercises will help prepare you for any shot that might come down the pike.

5. CHECK FOR ADEQUATE CLEARANCE

Before coming to full draw you must quickly determine if there is anything along the projected arrow’s route that could cause a deflection. We have all missed because our arrow contacted an unseen twig or an overhanging branch.

If you have the time, use your pins to insure you have a clear path for your arrow. If you are taking a 40-yard shot for example, and your 30-yard pin is centered on an overhanging limb, then by all means raise or drop your line of sight to take the shot.

But do not overlook the obvious. A friend of mine once missed a dandy buck because he rested the lower limb of his bow on the platform of his tree stand. He later explained he was shaking like the proverbial leaf and needed to anchor the bow to stop the sights from weaving all about.

6. AVOID SHOOTING AT ALERT ANIMALS

Your goal should always be to shoot at an animal that is relaxed and unaware of your presence. A buck that has you pegged, or appears nervous can fall back, jump up, leap forward, switch ends, drop to his knees or simply skedaddle before you can release an arrow. And if by chance you do manage to get a shot off the result is almost always a miss, or worse.

Indeed, I once caught a buck flat-footed as he fed along the edge of a cut corn lot one windy morning. He seemed a bit nervous, but when he turned broadside to me at 20 yards I released a vaned shaft at his vitals just as he stepped forward. Much to my surprise the buck suddenly hopped forward causing my arrow to sail harmlessly across the field. He then lowered his head and continued feeding before jumping a barbed wire fence and trotting out of range. I am convinced this nervous buck caught in mid stride heard the arrow leave the bow, and was already coiled to react instinctively to the strange noise.

7. AVOID THE WANDERING EYE

You should always pick a spot to shoot at BEFORE you bring your bow to full draw. In the excitement of the hunt it is easy to get rattled and stare at the rack (which you will invariably hit!) or look at the whole animal to which case you will surely miss him by a country mile.  Picking a spot before you raise your bow forces you to block out other stimuli and concentrate on settling the pin on that specific area.

8. DON’T RUSH THE SHOT

One of the more common ways to flub an opportunity is to allow our emotions to short circuit our common sense. During the rut for example when bucks are prancing about it is not uncommon to be at full draw and have the buck suddenly take off in another direction. Your worse course of action now is to snap off a shot. We panic because we fear the buck is going to get away.

A sudden whistle or grunt will generally stop the buck long enough for you to settle your pin, but if that does not work let your bow down. You may be able to draw him back into range with some deer vocalizations.

9. DON’T SHOOT TOO CLOSE

We all know we should pass up shot opportunities that are beyond our capabilities, but what about those times when the buck is only a few yards away? Indeed, close range shooting can be as demanding as the long shots.

One problem that quickly comes apparent is where exactly to put your pin. I have taken several bucks under ten yards, including one seven pointer at three yards. However, I missed (gulp!) a mature eight pointer this past season at 12 feet because I failed to thread a broadhead through a small opening in a maze of low-hanging thorn apple branches.

Shooting straight down out of a tree stand is another conundrum. It is best to practice this shot before the season opens to learn exactly where your arrow will hit at ten or twelve feet. You may have to aim low. In addition, you need to be sure your equipment is up to the task. Arrows have been known to fall off the rest at the worse time.

10. DO NOT LET DOWN

I practice shooting through brush, tall grass and weeds to learn how a particular broadhead might react under hunting conditions. It is surprising what an arrow can pass through and still be on target, especially if the buck is standing in tall grass, and how a single pencil thin twig will easily deflect a broadhead.

Let me put it this way, I would not want to be standing in the goldenrod and have someone with average shooting skills firing arrows at me, and expect a few goldenrod stalks to protect me. Use your head here; you don’t always have to pass up the shot because the animal is partially concealed by vegetation.

Bonus Tip: DON’T PUNCH OR PLUCK

You can still blow an easy shot if you fever up at the last second and either punch the release or pluck the string.

I try to control the entire shooting situation by having a step-by-step mental check off list to rely on: First estimate the yardage and then pick a spot to shoot at. Now come to full draw while staring at that spot, and hold it steady for three seconds.

Now I tell myself, “you haven’t got him yet, you need a clean release.” It forces me to take one more second and concentrate on a perfect release with follow through.

I have learned that if I skip a step I am sure to miss, no matter how easy the shot appears to be. But when I adhere to this check off list, the odds of a solid hit and good blood trail are high.

Bill Vaznis, Outdoor Author & Editor, Bear Hunting Magazine

Within a half an hour or so I can count on my ultra sharp Piranta hunting knife from Havalon to speed up the field dressing of my buck before rigor mortis sets in and the meat spoils.  And that means tasty venison steaks and chops during those cold winter months.  Good Hunting!

How do you avoid choking at the moment of truth? Share a tip.

See Books by Bill Vaznis

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September Free Havalon Knife Winner Announced

Brian Wilson from West Virginia is the lucky winner of a Free Havalon Knife Set for the month of September.   Brian was eligible because he signed up to receive email from Havalon Knives in September.   Brian chose a Havalon Piranta-Z with 12 additional blades and a free Piranta holster.

Want to be in the hopper for a chance to win a free Havalon Knife set of your choice?  Then sign up for our monthly email news.  That’s all you need to do.  Don’t worry, we won’t fill your inbox with junk. We publish news about once a month and you’ll also be the first to know about our new knives.  Sign up today!

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Do Baracuta blades fit the Havalon Piranta knives?

Paul Schwartz, Division Sales Manager

A few people have asked, “Do Baracuta blades fit our Piranta knives?

No, Baracuta blades have a bigger fitment slot in order to grip the bigger blade and it is farther up the blade tang. The Baracuta blades would be too prone to breaking if we made them fit the Pirantas.  

One of the many challenges in making surgical-type blades is in managing the breaking point of the steel while still using the thinnest strip of steel you can.  The thickness of the blade steel has a big impact on how “sharp” you can make its edge.  And for “surgical-quality sharpness” you have to be thinner rather than thicker.   So, as a manufacturer you are faced with a tradeoff.  You’ve got very critical decisions to make in a whole range of variables, but to win on “sharpness” you have to give up some ground on strength.   Likewise, to win with a longer blade, you have to add thickness.

That brings up another frequently heard question,  “What good is a knife if the blade has the possibility of breaking anyway?” 

Yes, Havalon knives feature blades that will break under significant sideways pressure or twisting. We do not try to hide this fact.  We do, however, try to educate users how to get the benefits of our blades by learning how to use them.  Once you learn to go easy with slitting and slicing motions only, you will find our knives to be outstanding skinning, caping and deboning tools.   Thousands of hunters, pro guides, taxidermists and industrial cutters who all have tough work to do requiring repeated slicing and slitting tell us they will never go back to a “traditional” style knife again.   They choose Havalon.  Not bad for a knife that has the possibility of breaking.

For more see How to get the most out of your Havalon

Did it take you a little while to learn how to go easy with the blades?  Was it worth it?  Share your experience.

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Review of Havalon Knives from Erie Times

This review of Havalon Knives by Mike Bleech appeared in the Sunday Erie Times yesterday.  Might be useful as you are weighing which knives to take on your next hunt:

Mike Bleech

See Havalon Knives Review in Erie Times

How has a Havalon knife worked for you?

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