Why Doctors Who Hunt Prescribe Havalon Knives

Why Doctors Who Hunt Prescribe Havalon Knives (When it’s time for the post-mortem work…)

by Steve Sorensen

You’ve tied your tag on a deer and it’s time for field dressing. What will you use? A heavy, over sized survival knife? A cheap folder you got at the big-box store? An expensive fixed blade with Damascus steel?

If you’re a doctor or a taxidermist, I’m betting you’ll wield a surgical scalpel with skill and dexterity. To everyone else, my best advice is to follow the lead of those knife pros, and use a scalpel.

Why a scalpel makes sense.
The Havalon knife is actually a folding scalpel, and it makes sense for a number of reasons.
• First, a scalpel is the sharpest knife you’ll ever use. The medical profession can’t settle for inferior sharpness, and neither can taxidermists because time is money.
• Second, field dressing is post-mortem work, just like an autopsy. (Yes, so is taxidermy).
• Third, a surgical scalpel is inexpensive, readily available, and the right tool for gutting.
• Fourth, it’s the lightest, sharpest field dressing knife anywhere.
And you’re in luck. Havalon offers doctors, taxidermists, and you the best replaceable blade folding scalpel on the market.

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Pick one. Havalon offers a variety of folding knives featuring their #60A autopsy blade — it’s thicker, stronger, and does a better job than any other surgical scalpel. (Steve Sorensen photo.)

When I was a kid I saw a hunter with a giant Marine Corps fighting knife on his belt. The bottom of it was strapped, gunslinger style, to his thigh. I must have thought big game needed a big knife, or maybe I thought it looked cool, because I remember strapping my uncle’s World War 2 U.S. Navy K-Bar knife to my little prepubescent thigh. I guess I thought I was prepared for whatever cutting job (or fighting job) I’d face. My dad told me I’d never need such a big knife for hunting. Then he showed me his field dressing knife with a blade not much bigger than the blade on a Havalon knife — though the Havalon was still far into the future.

Small is beautiful.
Dad was right. All I needed was a small, lightweight knife with a razor sharp blade, but since the Havalon knife wasn’t invented yet Dad’s mission was to teach his young hunter to put a wicked-sharp edge on a knife. (I learned how, but in recent years I’ve noticed that sharpening knives is becoming a lost art — another good reason to buy a Havalon knife!)

Dad’s field dressing knife had a blade not much bigger than the Havalon surgical scalpel. Over the years, he sharpened his knife so many times he wore out the blade. As those same years rolled by I noticed hunting knives becoming smaller. A scalpel blade is the logical outcome of that downsizing trend. When it comes to field dressing knives, small is beautiful!

More benefits of the surgical scalpel.
When I first discovered the Havalon knife, I was amazed at how sharp it was, and how it made field dressing fast, easy and clean. I thought I’d be smart and clue in a couple of my doctor friends about what I had found. It didn’t occur to me that doctors who hunt already had it figured out — they were already using a scalpel as a hunting knife. Same with taxidermists.

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Neither medical school nor an operating room are prerequisites to using a scalpel, but whether you’re a doctor, a lawyer, an Indian chief, or an everyday hunter, your best tool for field dressing your deer is a surgical scalpel on a folding handle, and Havalon makes the best. (Jill Sorensen Motl photo.)

Scalpels come in many sizes, but the perfect size is the one the medical industry calls the autopsy blade, (#60A). If you’ve ever had surgery, and you’re reading this, that’s probably NOT the blade the doctor used on you. But there’s a good chance he did use a smaller scalpel from Havels, the parent company of Havalon Knives. That’s because Havels is the leading company in medical cutting tools.

Havels was in the perfect position to pioneer the folding surgical scalpel as a serious and effective field dressing knife. Their scalpel holds an edge (remember — surgeons depend on it), and even better, you never need to sharpen it (unlike the knife my dad wore out). When a blade gets dull, do like a doctor — just unwrap a new blade with a fresh, crazy-sharp edge and swap it out.

No stopping to sharpen. No rooting around in your pack for your second-string knife. No messing with inferior sharpness. And you’ll never need to spend the night before the deer season opener putting a last-minute edge on a knife you’ve neglected since last season.

Little knife, big value.
Because Havels blades are made in volume for the medical world they cost very little. Hunters are beneficiaries of this high-capacity manufacturing. So, when you’ve shot your deer and it’s time to do the post-mortem work, I recommend the Havalon knife, the most innovative folding knife with a super-sharp surgical scalpel.

Of course, good ideas are always copied, but no other replaceable blade knife measures up to the Havalon. No one makes a scalpel as sharp and as strong. Some offer replacement blades that are much more expensive, or are much harder to clean after the work is done.

Havalon makes several handle designs in different materials, plus some impressive two-bladed knives and a multi-tool. Whichever you choose, you’ll do your fastest, cleanest field dressing job ever, and you’ll see why Havalon knives are preferred by doctors and taxidermists.
***
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When “The Everyday Hunter” isn’t hunting, he’s thinking about hunting, talking about hunting, dreaming about hunting, writing about hunting, or wishing he were hunting. If you want to tell Steve exactly where your favorite hunting spot is, contact him through his website, www.EverydayHunter.com. He’s a frequent contributor to the Havalon website, writes for top outdoor magazines, and won the 2015 and 2018 national “Pinnacle Award” for outdoor writing.

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The Smartest Bucks That Have Ever Lived

The Smartest Bucks That Have Ever Lived
Steve Sorensen

Twenty years ago the deer population was high, bucks were everywhere, and it wasn’t hard to get one. Most were a year and a half old, with their first set of antlers. Spikes, 3-points, occasionally a 6-point or a small 8-point. All a hunter needed to do was station himself along a trail, especially an escape route, and wait. With a little luck he’d have a buck on the ground by mid-morning.

I used to call them pinball bucks. They were confused by the influx of hunters into their world, and bounced around until a hunter’s shot connected.

Hunting is different now. Most yearling bucks are off limits in states with antler restrictions, and in other states many hunters are voluntarily passing on them. Older bucks are smarter and more challenging, and hunting them isn’t the almost sure thing that hunting yearling bucks once was.

But what is a mature buck? A yearling has reached reproductive maturity, but he’s not fully mature. He’s equivalent to a boy in his early teens. A two-and-a-half year old buck has been through one season, and is considerably better educated. He’s more like a boy in his late teens.

Some people say a two had a half year old buck is twice as hard to hunt as a one and a half year old. That seems likely, given the difference between an eighth grader and a senior in high school. The senior has coped with more challenges and has begun to learn the ways of the world.

By the time a buck is three-and-a-half years old, hunting him is a serious challenge. He is the equivalent of a man who has been in the workforce for a few years, or perhaps a military veteran. He has enough experience with human scent to know when and where danger lurks. When these older bucks are in the herd, young bucks that play follow the leader wise up quickly.

That’s not to say a three and a half year old buck has reached the pinnacle of deer intelligence. That happens at around five and a half. That’s also when his body is fully mature and his attitude is more independent of other deer. He is, in a sense, above it all. He will do what other deer don’t do, go where hunters don’t go, and stay there for the duration of the season. He’ll tend to move at night, and won’t venture in front of trail cameras as often. He’s the buck hunters think has disappeared, only to show up again the next year.

Fully mature deer are exceptional. They are trophies not just because they may have big antlers (they don’t always), but because they are very hard to find.

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The author’s best “trophy” doesn’t have the biggest antlers (a 6-point, but a big one). He was probably four and a half years old and field dressed at 190 pounds. Judging by the slack skin around his jowls, he lost a lot of weight during the rut. (Steve Sorensen photo.)

Mature deer have learned to avoid humans even when in close proximity to them. If they know they are likely to run into another hunter, they will sneak away as though they were crawling. They will run like lightning if it’s safe to run. Or they will melt away into the trees by walking quietly, slowly and softly. They are masters at knowing how to escape man’s intrusion.

In the last half of the twentieth century, whitetail deer became the driving force of the entire hunting industry. They are hunted in 44 states, and the pursuit of them has led to more products, more taxidermy, more firearms, more money spent that any other game animal. They are the most accessible big game animal in the world. Hunters have chased them from time immemorial, and very aggressively the last two hundred years. They are conservation’s chief resource.

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The experienced hunter gets a sense of satisfaction from field dressing a buck that’s three and a half years old or more. (Steve Sorensen photo.)

The instincts of fully mature whitetails have been sharply honed, making them the most adaptable, intelligent, and cagey animals out there. It’s safe to say that today we’re hunting the smartest whitetails that have ever lived.
***

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When “The Everyday Hunter” isn’t hunting, he’s thinking about hunting, talking about hunting, dreaming about hunting, writing about hunting, or wishing he were hunting. If you want to tell Steve exactly where your favorite hunting spot is, contact him through his website, www.EverydayHunter.com. He’s a frequent contributor to the Havalon website, writes for top outdoor magazines, and won the 2015 and 2018 national “Pinnacle Award” for outdoor writing.

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Don’t Be A Rifle Scope Snob

An optics snob doesn’t need to know what he’s talking about, so if you want to be an optics snob, don’t bother reading this.

Don’t Be a Riflescope Snob
Steve Sorensen

A guy on the customer side of the counter at Tall Tales Sporting Goods muttered in a voice loud enough for everyone to hear, “It’s a Chinese scope—it’s junk.” The guy beside him added, “You better spend at least $300 or you’re wasting your money!” The truth is that neither of those statements is true. It’s possible to spend half that on a good scope sourced from Asia, and be very happy with it. So if you don’t want to be an optics snob, read on and find out seven basic things you need to know to make a smart scope purchase.

1. Affordability:
Spend all you can, but not more than you can, and don’t be embarrassed about spending less than your buddy did. He has a different income, different responsibilities, different priorities. No hunter needs to go broke on a scope, but stretch as much as you can and you won’t be sorry. The market is full of good, affordable scopes. It’s just a matter of finding the one for you.

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The number of riflescope brands keeps growing. Brand is important, but it’s not all-important. (Photo by Steve Sorensen.)

2. Name Brand:
Name brand is where lots of the debate happens, and it’s no wonder. Tasco, Leupold, Bushnell, Nikon, Trijicon, Weaver, Zeiss, Vortex… the list is long enough to muddle the mind of Stephen Hawking—but all you have to do is take the advice of Stephen Sorensen, and my advice is simple. Consider the brands you’ve heard of, or maybe what others have had good luck with. But don’t let brand names become a battleground. Plenty of brands not well known will give you very reliable service. It’s a world of tiers (not tears)—low, middle and high—and no brand name stands head and shoulders above the rest. (Do be aware that some brand name labels have been put on pirated scopes, so buy from a dealer you trust.)

3. Power:
Scope discussions turn quickly to how much power your scope should have, and whether you need a variable power scope. Those questions have easy answers. Unless you’re doing some kind of long-range specialty shooting, or tend to hunt only in the thick stuff, stick with magnification in the range of 4 to 6. More, and you’re likely have trouble finding your target in your field of view. What about variables? In the early days of variable scopes quality was inconsistent, but today most hunters will be perfectly happy with a variable power scope of 3 to 9, or 4 to 12. In most variable power scopes, the highest magnification is approximately three times the lowest power, though technology now gives us scopes where the power range is a multiple of five. (They’re more money, of course.)

4. Lens coatings:
It’s time to consider what most people overlook. The coatings on the glass lenses in your scope are important, and you should know why. Contrary to what many people think, lenses are not coated for protection. The function of coatings is far more important. Lens coatings are microscopically thin layers of metallic molecules that reduce the amount of light reflected off the glass, thereby increasing the amount of light transmitted through the glass. Lens coatings make a scope brighter, and that’s why coatings are critical.

You need to know three terms: coated, fully-coated, and fully multi-coated. These all sound good, but are very different. The cheapest scopes advertise “coated optics.” That designation requires only that a single lens in the scope have an anti-reflective coating. Let’s say the objective lens (the end of the scope farthest from your eye) is coated. That doesn’t help a lot when every surface of every lens inside and outside the scope reflects light, reducing the amount of light that gets to your eye. “coated optics” will not give you good light in dim conditions.

Next comes “fully coated.” That means every lens surface has an anti-reflective coating, but only a single coating, not enough to maximize the amount of light passing through. As you might guess by now, “fully coated” lenses are brighter than “coated” lenses.

Finally, you’ll see scopes advertised as having “fully multi-coated” lenses. That means each surface of every lens in the scope has more than one lens coating (usually at least three). That increases brightness dramatically, and you’ll notice it at dawn, dusk, on overcast days and in dark timber. You want a scope with “fully multi-coated” lenses. It’s an important feature that doesn’t break the bank.

The following chart explains that benefit. An uncoated lens allows about 96% of the light to pass through. That’s not much of an issue when you’re looking through the window at a squirrel in your back yard. But if you’re judging antlers on a buck in dim light through 10 lens surfaces, each one diminishing some of the light, only 66% of the light passing through uncoated lenses will ever reach your eye.

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The more layers of anti-reflective coatings a lens has, the more light passes through. If you have a line-up of lenses with no coatings, much of the light entering the scope will never reach your eye. (Photo by Steve Sorensen.)

On the other end of the spectrum, one multi-coated lens (usually at least three layers) allows 99.5% of the light to pass through. When that light passes through 10 multi-coated lens surfaces, approximately 95% of the light reaches your eye. You will never be sorry about that. The lesson is that all three words are important to the hunter:
1. Fully (both sides of all the lenses).
2. Multi (multiple layers of light-transmitting coatings).
3. Coated (what lets light pass through rather than being reflected away).
No good scope has less.

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The absence of adequate lens coatings can make a big difference in a scope’s brightness. (Photo by Steve Sorensen.)

So far you’re committed to spending all you can afford, you’re considering some reputable brands, you’ve decided to buy a scope with a power range you’re comfortable with, and you understand the benefit of fully multi-coated lenses. Now what?

5. Exit Pupil
Exit pupil is another technical term, but it’s easy to understand. The exit pupil is simply the small dot of light you see when you hold the scope away from your eye and look through it. It’s the product of simple math. Let’s say your scope has a 40mm objective lens, and a power of 4. Divide 4 into 40mm, and the product is 10mm. That is the size of the exit pupil on that scope.

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Simple math will tell you what the exit pupil is for any scope. Here’s a 3.5 to 10 power Leupold Vari-X III scope with a 40mm objective lens. It’s set on six power, so the exit pupil you see here is 40mm ÷ 6, or 6.66mm. Most hunters’ eyes can use all of it. (Photo by Steve Sorensen.)

That’s important because it relates to the pupil of your own eye. A normal eye opens to about 7mm (in older folks it’s less), so a scope with a smaller exit pupil will give you a dimmer view. For example, if your scope has a 40mm objective, and its magnification is 10 power, you have an exit pupil of only 4mm. No matter how wide your own pupil opens, only a 4mm dot of light will get to your eye. In a variable scope of 3 to 9 power with a 40mm objective, you will have a large exit pupil of 13.3 mm at 3 power and small exit pupil of 4.4 mm at 9 power. The general rule is that higher power scopes deliver less light to your eye. Lower power gives a brighter view.

6. Eye Relief:
Eye relief doesn’t mean “eye rest.” Eye relief is the distance your eye is from the ocular lens (the lens nearest your eye), and still give you a maximum field of view. On many rifles that’s not important, but when you get to the ones that punch like Muhammad Ali, you want that scope far from your eyebrow because it will cut you if it hits you. For me, that stopped being fun the fourth time. As a general rule, a hard-kicking rifle with a scope having under 4 inches of eye relief puts the guy behind the scope in a dangerous place.

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Don’t have an unfortunate experience with a scope having too little eye relief. (Photo by Steve Sorensen.)

7. Guarantee:
The riflescope business is very, very competitive. New names regularly enter the field. Competition forces many companies to back their scopes with strong guarantees. Even the best manufacturers are capable of producing a defective scope now and then, but that’s no problem if you get a scope with a good, no-questions-asked guarantee. Twice I’ve sent scopes back—in one a lens coating bubbled up and in the other a crosshair moved when I turned the power ring.

Conclusion:
Germany once manufactured the best optical products, but today almost nothing is made in one country, or even one factory. The digital age has enabled virtually every aspect of optical production to improve over the last 20 years. Thanks to computer-controlled manufacturing which reduces human error, a high quality scope can be made anywhere in the world.

The key today is quality control. Strong quality-control policies throughout the process of manufacturing make a big difference in producing very good riflescopes. You might have other reasons to reject a scope from a particular country—politics, labor, balance of trade, maybe even terrorism—but quality probably isn’t one of them.

The Bottom Line
If you can’t take it from Sorensen, take it from one of today’s leading experts in hunting optics. John Barsness said, “For decades, hunting writers have been stating that you get what you pay for in optics, implying that price is an absolute guide to quality.” That’s no longer true. (Source: https://www.24hourcampfire.com/binoculars.html.)

Or take it from Randy Wakeman, “There is no basis extant to automatically assume that quality of assembly of a scope is better (or worse) based on the nation in which a scope is assembled. It does not hold true in electronics, cars, cameras, video equipment, or computers.” In other words, no one is saying, “Chinese smartphones are junk,” so it doesn’t have to be true that “Chinese scopes are junk.”

There’s more to know. We could talk about parallax, adjustments, turrets, mounts, and many other topics, but if you know these seven things, you know enough to go out and get a good riflescope without overspending. Of course, if your pockets are deep enough you can spend a lot more than $150, but these things still apply.

Of course, all of this has one big downside. The more you know about buying a scope, the less you’ll be able to blame your scope when you miss that deer.
***

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Steve Sorensen has published articles in top hunting magazines across the USA, and won the prestigious “Pinnacle” Award for outdoor writing in 2015 and 2018. He writes an award-winning newspaper column called The Everyday Hunter®, and frequently contributes to the Havalon website. Invite Steve to speak at your next sportsman’s event, and follow him at www.EverydayHunter.com.

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Tips for Taking Out Summer Coyotes

By Steve Sorensen

Know when coyotes are vulnerable and
take out the competition for deer!

A dead summer coyote killed using turkeys decoys

Turkey decoys don’t only fool turkeys. Hungry coyotes are often fooled by them too. (Photo: Steve Sorensen)

I saw my first eastern coyote in Washington County, Maine back in 1982. I was deer hunting not far from the Canada border. Coyotes yipped and howled like party animals every night.

At home in Pennsylvania, that same month, a friend got a picture of one as he was photographing deer. That answered the question neighbors down along the paved road were asking, “What was all that noise on Deer Ridge every night?” More party animals.

Back then not much was known about eastern coyotes, even though they weren’t completely new. They had been in the East since the 1930s (see my article “Eastern Coyotes: Photographic Evidence of Their Origins”), but few of us had much exposure to them. Now we’re learning these party animals are deer predators.

Looking for coyote tracks on a tractor lane

Coyotes often take the path of least resistance, so check tractor lanes for tracks, especially after a rainfall. (Photo: Steve Sorensen)

How? When? Where?

Deer hunters are asking: where will we find coyotes? How do we eliminate them? But the big question is this: when are they most vulnerable?

To kill coyotes, it helps to know when they’re vulnerable. I told you about the racket coyotes made on Deer Ridge in the early 1980s. A year or two later in August, my Uncle Gary was hunting woodchucks in a large field in the area, saw some coyotes and even got some video footage. A couple of evenings later we headed back to that field hoping to knock off one or two.

We had just arrived and were standing in the middle of the field about 100 yards from one edge when Uncle Gary whispered, “A coyote, behind you at the edge of the woods.” Instead of turning around to look, I placed Gary’s homemade rifle rest in front of him. I stepped aside and he sat down to fire a shot through the critter’s pump station.

We figured it was over, and we sat behind a strip of grass the hay mower had missed. Soon I noticed a deer acting nervous at the far edge of the field and saw a coyote trotting toward it. I launched a bullet on a 160-yard jaunt at my first coyote.

Those were young coyotes, a female weighing 20 pounds and a male weighing 22. Another buddy took one a day or two later. We didn’t think it would be so easy, but we probably cut the litter in half. The lessons: when they’re young, they’re vulnerable, and it pays to know spring and summer coyote habits.

Spring: Spring turkey hunters sometimes call coyotes in. One grabbed my decoy — the mistake of a lifetime. You’ve probably seen YouTube videos of the same thing. Why does it seem to happen then? And why are these mostly adult coyotes?

By late spring and early summer, adult coyotes are transitioning their young to meat. That’s when prey populations are at their annual high, so adult coyotes leave the dens to go on killing sprees and bring meals back to their pups.

Summer: Coyote pups begin to explore the world for themselves in mid- to late-summer. They’re essentially teenagers, and don’t know much about danger yet. Like many teenagers they have some traits you can take advantage of. They’re risk-takers. They’re eating machines. They’ll often be together, or not far from each other, and they won’t be far from their dens. They’re on a fast learning curve, so use scent strategies.

Coyote droppings

Coyotes love to place droppings on rocks, stumps and other slightly elevated spots, making them easy for you to see. (Photo: Steve Sorensen)

If you want to prune the predator population, take advantage of these habits in seven ways:

  1. Talk to farmers. I’ve seen farmers watch coyotes from the seat of a tractor pulling a hay baler. Check your favorite farms every couple of weeks. Leave your phone number with the farmers. That should give you some likely hot spots.
  2. Talk to people. Stop at the local diners or other hangouts. Bring up the topic of coyotes. Ask neighbors if they’ve heard them yipping at night. People keep secrets about deer, but they’ll usually talk about coyotes.
  3. Watch harvested hayfields. These are like hunting preserves for young coyotes. They’ll hone their skills on grasshoppers and mice, which had plenty of cover in long grass a few days earlier. When young coyotes are hunting, they pay little attention to anything else.
  4. Use binoculars. When the grass grows back to four to eight inches, spend some evenings driving country roads. Stop to check fields with binoculars. Watch the behavior of deer. If they look nervous, keep watching.
  5. Look for sign. Check for tracks or droppings where tractor lanes enter fields. Look on trails that connect fields. Don’t overlook rocks, stumps and ant hills — for some reason coyotes love making deposits on elevated spots.
  6. Use trail cameras. Place them near fields where coyotes might pass by. If you have a particular field corner worth watching, aim a camera toward the field and another into the woods. Check them every few days. If you get a photo, hunt the area immediately.
  7. Try calling. Howl a little, yip a lot and squeal like a prey animal in case a coyote is in the vicinity. The young ones especially might come running.
Two mangy summer coyotes

This coyote double taken on a late July evening is not a pretty picture, mostly because both animals had mange. That’s one more reason to thin the population. (Photo: Steve Sorensen)

Here’s one more example of how summer strategies work. Several years ago a friend of mine had a horse get loose in late July. On the way home from fetching it he spotted several coyotes in a cut hayfield. That night he called me.

The next evening I was barely 100 yards from my truck when I saw coyotes pouncing up and down in the fresh-cut grass, brutalizing mice and grasshoppers. I slipped a diaphragm turkey call into my mouth and squealed like a wounded rabbit. I’ve never seen such cautionless coyotes. They came on a dead run. I shot two, and I would have shot more if I hadn’t been using a single shot rifle. It was that easy.

Summer coyotes are not wearing prime fur, but fur isn’t the only reason to go after them. Remember, every coyote you kill saves other animals. You’re not going to crash the population, but dead coyotes stop eating. It’s as simple as that.


About Steve Sorensen:

hunter outdoor writer steve sorensenSteve Sorensen is the author of “Growing Up With Guns” and “The Everyday Hunter Handbook Series.” He writes an award-winning newspaper column called “The Everyday Hunter®” and edits content in the Havalon Post. He has published articles in top magazines across the USA, and won the 2015 “Pinnacle” Award for magazine writing. Invite Steve to speak at your next sportsman’s event, and follow him at www.EverydayHunter.com.


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Napoleon’s Rule of Turkey Hunting

Napoleon’s Rule of Turkey Hunting
By Steve Sorensen

When guys wearing camo are talking at the diner, once in a while you hear one of them say “Turkeys don’t do that!” The guy who hunts by that rule isn’t a serious hunter and for sure isn’t killing as many gobblers as he could. Wild turkeys are wildly unpredictable. That’s why I hunt spring gobblers by what I call Napoleon’s Rule (not the French military man, but the star of the 2004 movie Napoleon Dynamite). If you use Napoleon’s Rule, and if you shoot straight, you’ll kill more spring gobblers.

I’ll tell you what Napoleon’s Rule is, but first, here are five things turkeys are not supposed to do, but they do anyway.

1. They’ll change trees after dark.
My buddy Dick was out one evening with high hopes. I had already killed a mature bird six days earlier, and we thought the bird that had been running with that one might be lonesome and more inclined to come to a call. Dick went out one evening with the goal either to tag that bird or to roost him for the morning. The clock ticked toward darkness and the big gobbler was closing the distance, but not quickly enough. As Dick was running out of time he watched the gobbler back off a little and then heard him fly up into a roost tree. Dick waited nearly an hour, then snuck out of there in the blackness of night without bumping the bird off his roost.

The next morning Dick and I were there well before daylight. Dick positioned himself at the same tree he was calling from the night before, and I was 100 yards away across a rocky ravine. Everything was perfect as first light began to seep over the horizon, but when the gobbler gave his first morning announcement, we realized that the old boy had changed trees during the night. He was gobbling in the tree Dick was sitting by.

Dick didn’t kill that bird. I did. And if we hadn’t been hunting together, neither of us would have shot him. The lesson is this. We think of turkeys staying put during the night, with heads tucked safely under their wings. If they leave their perch, we figure they were probably flushed by some danger—but sometimes they move on their own. There’s no explaining that.

RoostChanger

This gobbler changed roost trees on his last night in this world. (Photo by Steve Sorensen.)

2. They’ll come in after you leave.
People have places to go and people to meet, so at some point we always need to get out of the woods to take care of business. It’s not that we run out of patience. It’s not that we give up. We just have obligations. One season, at first light, I heard a gobbler on the hillside below. I started calling and he headed my way, but oh, so slowly. I had be at work by 8:00 AM, and he was still gobbling when I left the woods at about 7:30.

The next morning I went back to the same place and sat down to wait for him to gobble. Just as dim light was beginning to brighten the woods, I thought it might be a good idea to answer nature’s call before the gobbler sounded off. As soon as I stood up, I was busted. He flew out of the tree I had been sitting against.

The lesson is that a gobbler might come in long after your pretty hen sounds go silent. We would expect him to find somewhere else to go, some other hen to breed. But no. He must have been monogamous. He wanted that hen, and only that hen. How long will he wait for her? A whole day if he must. Makes me wonder how many times I’ve called gobblers in after I left the woods.

3. They’ll walk away gobbling like there’s no tomorrow.
One evening my brother was fishing and heard a gobbler high on a steep hill. We decided to climb that hill the next morning and when we got to the top that turkey was hotter than the midsummer sun. He carried on a vigorous and lusty conversation, but he wouldn’t budge. He finally decided on a better place to continue that conversation, because he walked away gobbling every few seconds. Between his gobbles, my brother thought he heard another faint gobble.

We thought that if another gobbler was nearby but was intimidated by the first, maybe he’d come in. We set up and sure enough, in a few minutes I heard a soft “cluck” down in a little depression on the hilltop. I raised my Ithaca 37 and he walked in front of the barrel.

We turkey hunters like to find a hot gobbler. We think they’re the easy ones. Turkeys think otherwise. Hot gobblers don’t always come in, but that doesn’t mean a not-so-hot gobbler won’t.

four hour gobbler

Here I sit, at a perfect set-up, but the 4-hour gobbler won the battle. (Photo by Steve Sorensen.)

4. They’ll talk to you for endless hours.
I was hunting a hot spot back in the ’90s, and it was just a matter of time until I scored. One morning I took off work and had until noon to parlay every bit of patience I could into a successful hunt.

At daylight I had a mature gobbler down a steep hill about 100 yards away. He came off the roost and was coming right to me, but hung up at about 30 yards and wouldn’t crest the hill. He spent the next four hours gobbling at every call I made, but refused to make that last move. In the time I danced with that turkey, four hours passed. I could have gone home, watched “Dances with Wolves,” and come back.

Finally, I heard another gobbler down on the bench from the other direction. I glanced that way and could see him coming 100 yards out. Since visibility was better that direction, I decided my odds were better with him. I made a move to the other side of the tree. When I was halfway there, that four-hour gobbler decided it was the perfect moment to show up. Why did he do that? Maybe the slight sound I made in the leaves did the trick. Maybe he felt competition from the other gobbler. Or maybe, he wanted to make me look like a fool. Yeah, that’s it. But what really matters is that neither turkey got a ride in my truck that day.

5. They’ll leave and then come back.
It’s over. He walked away, so he lives another day. Right? Nope—that’s not always the case. I’ll probably never know why they do this, but it pays to know they do. When a gobbler walks away, the game isn’t necessarily over.

On more than one occasion I have let gobblers leave, and then called them back. One day two mid-morning gobblers came to my soft, sweet, minding-my-own-business purrs and yelps, but they set up their strut zone behind me. That’s where they wanted to be. I couldn’t get them to budge, and I couldn’t move. I decided to go silent for 15 or 20 minutes and when I yelped again, they responded about 100 yards down in the woods.

I quickly moved to the other side of the tree and issued a series of yelps. They gobbled but stayed put until I turned up the heat. I gave them the deadly fighting purr on the Northern Scratchbox call I make and they came barreling in, not wanting to miss whatever was going on. A little while later one of them posed for some photos on the tailgate of my Ford Ranger.

TailgateGobbler

This gobbler came to my set-up, and then left, but charged back in a second time. Then he posed for a photo on the tailgate of my pickup. (Photo by Steve Sorensen.)

These five hunts, and more, have taught me that “Turkeys don’t do that” is a bad rule to hunt by. Sometimes they do do that. They’re like Napoleon Dynamite in the opening scene of the movie of that name when a kid on the school bus said, “What are you going to do today, Napoleon?” His answer? “Whatever I feel like I wanna do! GOSH!” Napoleon’s Rule of turkey hunting is the one to remember: turkeys do whatever they feel like they wanna do.
***

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Steve Sorensen has published articles in top magazines across the USA, and won the 2015 “Pinnacle” Award for magazine writing. He also writes an award-winning newspaper column called The Everyday Hunter®, and frequently contributes to the Havalon website. Invite Steve to speak at your next sportsman’s event, and follow him at www.EverydayHunter.com.

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