The Great Sighting-In Debate, Part 2

The Great Sighting-In Debate, Part 2:
Five Reasons Shooting Ability Is More Important Than MOA Accuracy
By Steve Sorensen

The view that you don’t need minute-of-angle (MOA) accuracy from a deer rifle does not mean accuracy is not at all important. Don’t bother hunting with a rifle that throws lead in a pattern that looks like it came from a shotgun. A deer rifle must have a reasonable amount of consistency—defined as reliability and repeatability. That question is, “What is that reasonable amount?” For generations hunters filled their larders with meat using flintlock and caplock rifles that weren’t nearly as accurate as the modern, high velocity bottleneck cartridges our rifles shoot today. How did they do that?

“If I do my part!”
Shooters say it all the time—“My rifle will shoot one-inch groups all day, if I do my part!” What, exactly, does “if I do my part” mean? It means two things. First, as hunters we value equipment that won’t let us down, so we’re assuming the rifle does its part. Second, as humans we know we don’t always measure up, so it’s a way of saying the rifle is more reliable than the shooter. In other words, a machine can perform almost flawlessly; we humans can’t. A running back might zig when he should zag and get pushed away from the goal line when he should have crossed into the end zone. Likewise, a hunter might make any number of mistakes, even if his rifle can shoot MOA groups in a paper target. That’s especially true when the hunter is carrying a rifle he hasn’t picked up since last deer season.

That fact is, you can’t achieve MOA accuracy without doing your part. But even if your rifle can’t perform at MOA accuracy, you can still hit a deer if your bullets land comfortably inside a 6″ paper dessert plate every time at 100 yards. That’s enough accuracy because most shots at deer will be well under 100 yards. It never hurts to strive for tighter groups, but you must take advantage of the rifle’s built-in accuracyf. So shoot a lot. Shoot enough to make shooting become second nature.


In the 1950s few rifles had telescopic sights and most couldn’t shoot one-inch groups, yet those old timers who carried them didn’t have much trouble hitting deer. (Steve Sorensen photo.)

Here are five things that must happen for you to “do my part.”
1. Sighting in—Know where the bullet hits.
You need to know your rifle, and that includes knowing where your bullets go when you pull the trigger. If you have no idea where your bullets are going, you can’t shoot with confidence. And if they are splattering all over the target, something is probably loose—the stock screws, the scope mount, maybe even the crosshairs inside the scope. Find it and fix it, because some kind of consistent group is necessary if you expect to hit the deer.

2. Target acquisition—Get the gun on the game.
Can you find the deer in your scope? If you can’t, maybe your magnification is too high. Maybe you are left-eye dominant and you’re looking through the scope with your right eye. Maybe you tend to point the gun to the right or the left as you bring it up. You won’t get many shots at deer if you take three or four seconds to find him in the scope. Practice acquiring the target by picking out different objects, maybe a rock, a stump, and a knot on a tree trunk. Make sure your rifle is unloaded, then raise and lower it to practice finding them instantly in the scope, one after the other. Practice at different distances until finding the target in your scope becomes automatic.

Breaking Down a Shot at a Buck
1. You spot antlers—immediately those glands sitting atop your kidneys dump adrenaline directly into your bloodstream.
2. You sighted your rifle in while wearing light clothing and ear protection. Now you’re wearing heavy clothing.
3. At the bench, you had all the time you needed to squeeze each shot off. Now, you have only a second or two, and your anxiety is heightened.
4. You’re not concentrating on keeping your eye in the center of the scope.
5. You forget that the wind is blowing.
6. Other unpredictables come into play. Maybe fog on your glasses or raindrops on your scope. Maybe you’re wearing a glove and you don’t feel the trigger. Maybe you have a nagging feeling that your camp buddies will tease you if you miss again. Maybe you’re looking at buck big enough to turn your legs to jelly.

3. Gun stability—Hold still.
If you’re middle-age or older, you’re probably not as strong as you once were. If you’re out of breath, you can’t hold the rifle still even if you’re young and strong. If the deer is way out yonder, but you’re only comfortable with shorter distances, you’ll have a problem. You will never hit a deer if you’re waving your rifle around like it’s a flag on a windy day. Gun stability is critical. So find a shooting rest, maybe a tree limb, or invest in a good set of shooting sticks.

4. Trigger squeeze—Easy does it, no jerking.
Many, many rifles have very heavy triggers. As you put pressure on a heavy trigger the business end of the rifle begins to move. A bad trigger—whether it’s heavy, or has some serious creep, or breaks unpredictably—has an enormous negative impact on accuracy. If pulling your trigger causes a quarter inch of movement at the end of the barrel, that’s more than enough to miss the whole deer at 100 yards. Knowing your rifle means knowing your trigger. If you think you have problems with your trigger, take it to a competent gunsmith and have him check it. Ask to feel other triggers with various pull weights to find out what you’re comfortable with. And if you need to spend a little money to get a smooth trigger with a clean break, you’ll never be sorry. Most often it’s the first thing you can do to improve a rifle’s accuracy.


Whether your rifle is capable of shooting minute-of-angle or not, sighting in from a steady rest will tell you how accurate your rifle is. (Steve Sorensen photo.)

5. Breath control—Inhale, exhale, but don’t move.
Breathe in. Breathe out. Breathe in. Breathe out. When will you pull the trigger? After you’ve breathed in, let just a little air out, hold it, and put pressure on the trigger. That’s what you should have been doing at the bench rest when you sighted in, but it’s easy to forget. While dry-firing, imagine a deer in your scope—repetition and visualization helps with the mental aspect of shooting.

Making these five practices into habits is more critical than miniscule groups on a paper target, because if you don’t do your part, you can’t shoot the most accurate rifle well. If you do all of these things without thinking about them, whether you shoot a MOA rifle, or one that groups five shots in a four-inch circle, you’re odds of rendering the boiler room of any whitetail suddenly and permanently out of order go way up.

So it’s not either/or—either an accurate rifle or a good shooter. It’s both/and, two sides of one coin. Although you don’t need MOA accuracy in the deer woods, you do need reliability and repeatability so you have a reasonable expectation of where your bullets go. And you need to do your part—and your part is all the habits and practices that maximize whatever accuracy level your rifle can reach.


Steve Sorensen has published articles in top magazines across the USA, and won the 2015 “Pinnacle” Award for magazine writing. He also writes an award-winning newspaper column called The Everyday Hunter®, and frequently contributes to the Havalon website. Invite Steve to speak at your next sportsman’s event, and follow him at

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The Great Sighting-In Debate, Part 1

The Great Sighting-In Debate, Part 1:
Five Reasons Your Deer Rifle Needs MOA Accuracy
By Steve Sorensen

My dad and uncle were both clustering their bullet holes into tiny groups on a paper target at 100 yards. Half their holes touched each other. For me, it was sheer random luck when one bullet punched a hole within an inch of another.

We were at my uncle’s picnic table sighting in our deer rifles on Thanksgiving weekend many years ago. Dad had an old Winchester Model 54 in .30-06. Uncle Ken also had a .30-06. I had a Savage Model 340 in .222 Remington. We were all shooting bullets my uncle handloaded. We were all shooting at the same distance, with the same sandbags supporting our shooting irons. I wasn’t measuring up to the shooting ability my elders demonstrated. Although I was only 12 or 13, I was embarrassed, especially since everyone told me the .222 was well known to be an accurate cartridge. But my dad said, “Don’t worry about it. All you need to kill a deer is to put your shots into a paper plate. That’s about the same size as the boiler room on a buck.”

And that was my first exposure to the debate:
Do you need minute-of-angle accuracy
in the deer woods? Or are 4-inch groups sufficient
to place a bullet in the deer’s vitals?

What Is a Minute-of-Angle?
Here’s a non-technical definition. A minute-of-angle (MOA) is a mathematical term. A circle is a 360 degree circle, and each degree has 60 minutes, so there are 21,600 minutes in a circle. One of those 21,600 sections of the arc of a circle is a minute-of-angle. If the perimeter of that circle is 100 yards from the center, the distance of one minute on that arc is 1.047 inches. (A minute-of-angle at 50 yards is half that, and at 200 yards is twice that.)

For convenience, shooters usually round a minute-of-angle at 100 yards down to one inch. Although “one-inch groups” and “MOA” are not exactly the same, this article uses them interchangeably.

Hunters still argue over this. In a way, both sides are right. I’ve learned since I sat at that picnic table that there are reasons you need MOA accuracy, and reasons you don’t.

Five Reasons You Need MOA Accuracy
1. Tiny groups give you confidence in you and your rifle.
Some hunters just like to squeeze all the accuracy possible from their deer rifles, or any rifle. When a hunter maximizes accuracy, he gains confidence in his ability as a shooter. After all, a tiny group of five bullets in the target is the result not only of the rifle, but the shooter maximizing the rifle’s capability. For a shooter to prove himself, he needs an accurate rifle.

2. Tiny groups give you a sense of accomplishment.
When you get a minute-of-angle group of five bullets (what we usually call a one-inch group), you know you have quality ammunition, and achieved the accuracy your rifle is capable of. That’s worth something when you head into the woods.

This is what most hunters strive for. If you can cluster your bullets into groups like this, it won’t be the rifle’s fault if you miss a deer. (Steve Sorensen photo.)

3. The more accurate the rifle, the fewer deer you’ll miss or wound.
Shooting one-inch groups from a stable bench rest isn’t anything like shooting from a tree limb or shooting offhand. In the field, your groups will be significantly larger. If you’re shooting MOA groups from the bench, but offhand you shoot 8-inch groups, that’s still good enough to hit a deer in the vitals at a reasonable range. But if you’re shooting 4-inch groups from the bench, and they enlarge to 12 inches in field conditions, that’s not good enough. At the margins of a 12-inch group, you’re likely to miss or wound the deer.

4. The more accurate the rifle, the greater your margin for error.
This is a corollary of the third point. Think of the paper target as having an infinite margin for error—if you miss it, so what? However, the deer has a very limited margin for error—his chest. If you miss that 12-inch target, you fail to fill your tag. Or worse, you spend the rest of your hunt trailing a wounded, suffering deer. The smaller your groups in the target, the less likely either of those things will happen.

5. If you miss a deer you know it’s you, not the rifle.
I’ll let you in in a little secret—if you can shoot one-inch groups from a bench, and you miss a deer, it’s most likely your fault. It’s not the rifle. It’s not the scope. It’s not anything else. Some hunters are so cock-sure of their shooting ability that it could never, ever be their fault—so it must be the rifle’s fault. It couldn’t be the scope. It couldn’t be the wind or the rain. It couldn’t be the shooter! But they miss a deer and blame the rifle. They can’t pawn that rifle off on some unsuspecting nimrod fast enough.

There you are—now you know why you need an accurate rifle, one that can thread a bullet between two hairs on a deer’s shoulder. Or do you? What about using a less accurate rifle, maybe a pump like the deer trackers of New England carry? Or a lever gun like a few of those oldtimers who still roam the eastern woodlands? Their guns aren’t known for pinpoint accuracy, so are they at a disadvantage? Stay tuned.


A quick high-shoulder shot from the author’s minute-of-angle rifle dropped this buck in his tracks at 140 yards,. (Steve Sorensen photo.)




Steve Sorensen has published articles in top magazines across the USA, and won the 2015 “Pinnacle” Award for magazine writing. He also writes an award-winning newspaper column called The Everyday Hunter®, and frequently contributes to the Havalon website. Invite Steve to speak at your next sportsman’s event, and follow him at


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Tips For The Veteran Hunter

By Ron Spomer

You can always tell a veteran deer hunter —
you just can’t tell him much!

A single deer in an open field

“No self-respecting buck will be out in that open field at this time of day!” Oops! Never assume you know it all. (Photo: Ron Spomer)

We old timers who’ve been around the buck a time or two certainly know more than most young whipper snappers, but that superior experience sometimes comes back to bite us. Here are five big mistakes any deer hunter can make — even with many decades of experience under his belt.

1. We know it all. Except we don’t.

There’s always something new to learn about our quarry, our gear, our tactics and ourselves. Don’t make this mistake of thinking only “inside the box.” Keep an open mind. Research. Investigate. Try new things and be willing to learn.

Because some folks did this we now know that bucks are NOT spooked by human urine. That they do not stick to a tight core area throughout the fall rut period. That the oldest bucks do not always turn nocturnal and that the biggest buck in the area does not breed the greatest number of does. Know-it-all veterans (like me) have been shown that the right 75-grain .224 bullet will drift less in the wind than the wrong 150-grain .308 bullet and that a 95-grain 243 Winchester hits with more energy at 100 yards than a 170-grain .30-30.

A deer hunter scouting in a treestand

“This stand always produces!” Well, it used to. Don’t be afraid to move and find new and better hunting areas. (Photo: Ron Spomer)

2. We get stuck in a rut.

Hunting the rut is good. Being stuck in one is bad. The older and more experienced we get, the more likely we’ll fall into doing the same old same old. Just because that hot stand in the corner of the field produced five good bucks five years in a row ten years ago doesn’t mean it will do it again. Habitats change, hunting pressure changes, deer change. We must change.

Wake up and pay attention. Where are the best feeding sites? The safest bedding areas? The most secure travel lanes? Where has hunting pressure increased and where has it decreased? Figure it out and be ready to shift, move and change tactics. The good old days probably were good, but if they no longer are, admit it and set about creating the good NEW days.

3. We get lazy with gun handling.

This is an all too common but deadly mistake. Those of us who have handled, manipulated, cleaned, repaired and used “Old Death Wind” for two decades or more can get a bit sloppy about it. We forget to check the bore for obstructions after the off season. We get to reminiscing on the hike out of the woods and forget to unload the magazine. We grab an old box of ammo and load up without checking the head stamps. We start pushing down fence wires with the butt stock when crossing.

Yikes! The list of unsafe gun handling mistakes is a long and deadly one. Make a vow to stay on your toes when handling firearms. If you have to get stuck in a rut, the safe gun handling rut is the one to be stuck in.

4. We assume too much.

“No respectable buck is going to be out in that open field at this time of day.” So you drive over the rise and there he is — or was — courting a doe within easy rifle shot. If only you’d sneaked over instead! It’s smart to use what we’ve learned about whitetails over the years.

Being sure of what you know saves time and energy and often leads to success. But it can just as often lead to regrets. Instead of saying “always” and “never,” think “usually” and “rarely.” Then be prepared to take advantage of those exceptions.

A veteran hunter with two young hunters in training

“I don’t want competition from kids stumbling through my hunting grounds!” Hey – new recruits are our only chance for perpetuating both hunting and the game we hunt. Welcome them, train them. (Photo: Ron Spomer)

5. We discount new hunters.

Old friends are a comfort, but they could spell the end of hunting. Once they pass, who takes over? Who fights the fight we’ve fought for wildlife and hunting? Our increasingly urbanized, overcrowded world is drifting away from hunting and wildlife interactions. If we old timers go to our graves with our secrets and our passions, our grandkids will lose not only their right to hunt, but the wildlife they want to hunt. Even wildlife watching opportunities will diminish.

Hunters rebuilt wildlife habitat and restored wildlife species across North America following the exploitation era of the 19th century. Our interests, political pressure and dollars have made and funded the incredible 20th century resurgence in whitetails, turkeys, elk, geese, wood ducks, bears, mountain lions, wolves, beavers, otters and more. Without hunters as watchdogs, the forces of urbanization would bulldoze wildlife and wild places off the map while young people seek solace in digital toys.

So leave your comfort zone, break your habits and spread the good news. Bring new hunters of all ages into your orbit. Show kids the joys of the outdoor life. Feed ’em jerky. Pass on your hunting heritage or it will disappear along with the animals that inspired it. That will be the biggest mistake of all.

About Ron Spomer:

Blog Author, Ron Spomer.

Ron Spomer is rifles columnist for Sporting Classics, field editor for American Hunter, travel columnist for Sports Afield and contributor to Ducks Unlimited, Pheasants Forever and numerous other magazines and websites. He’s host of “Winchester World of Whitetail” on Outdoor Channel and dozens of informative videos on his own YouTube channel. Learn more at

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A Guide’s Advice for Life-Long Fishing Success

By William Clunie

7 strategies that guarantee life-long fishing success.

When I first started guiding fly-fishing clients I thought I would be the one doing the teaching. After twelve years of guiding on the Androscoggin River in western Maine, I find that the experience has been one big fly fishing lesson for me, the guide.

bill cope with big smallmouth bass 336x392

Pennsylvania angler Bill Cope with a big smallmouth bass from Maine’s Androscoggin River.
(Photo by WIlliam Clunie)

Some anglers I’ve guided were new to the sport and needed instruction, but most had fished exotic places around the world and brought all that experience with them. The only real instruction I gave these expert anglers was where to catch the fish and, maybe, how to fish a certain piece of water. They taught me these seven critical lessons.

1. Fly Fishing Requires Flexibility
The number-one thing that impresses me about knowledgeable anglers is an ability to be flexible. Like the swirling current, they are able to go with the flow and easily make changes where necessary. Their ability to constantly maintain an open mind to new ideas allows them to key in on fishing techniques that work in a variety of situations.

One well-traveled fellow, Pennsylvania angler Bill Cope, exemplified this flexible attitude to the extreme. After successfully fishing with me for one year Cope assumed the following year would be the same. After a few hours of failed angling using my tried-and-true method for catching huge smallmouth bass on top-water flies, Cope politely acknowledged my guiding abilities, but realized some changes were in order.

fly tying class at llbean 336x448

Taking a fly tying class, like this one at L. L. Bean in Freeport, Maine, gives anglers a certain edge for success. (Photo by WIlliam Clunie)

The veteran angler pulled a trick from his extensive bag of angling deceptions. He started switching flies at a rapid rate. He’d try one fly for a few casts and then snip that one off to tie on another until one streamer started working and he began hooking big fish. The only difference in the one fly that worked was a little bit of copper-colored flash added to the tail. By thinking outside the box, Cope started hauling in one fish after another.

Experienced anglers don’t get to this amazing level of angling by chance – just like a successful pro athlete, they practice with extreme intensity.

2. Push Your Fly Fishing Skills
New fly-rod enthusiasts must constantly push their skill levels. Even experienced anglers understand that when their fishing ability settles in at a level of comfort, there is still room for improvement.

fly casting class at llbean 448x336

Another class at L. L. Bean in Freeport, Maine – this time it’s how to cast a fly rod. (Photo by WIlliam Clunie)

3. Improve Your Cast
Casting lessons improve even the most experienced fly fisher. Each instructor views your technique from a different perspective and can tweak your individual rod-handling traits to enable you to get the most out of your angling experience.

4. Know Aquatic Life
Seminars on aquatic life also enlarge a fly angler’s ability to reach higher performance levels. The more you know about the foods fish consume, the better prepared you are to adapt your offerings to the environment the fish live in.

5. Fine-Tune Your Fly-Tying Ability
Taking classes on tying flies enlarges the knowledge base of anglers at all levels. It may be easier to purchase expertly tied flies, but tying your own pushes an angler up the learning curve. Full attention to every detail of every fly not only satisfies a creative urge, it also gives an angler a better understanding of how fish see and think.

clunie, kreh and montgomery on androscoggin river 448x336

Author William Clunie (center) with noted fly fishing instructor, Lefty Kreh (left) and his friend, King Montgomery (right), floating the Androscoggin River in Maine. (Photo by WIlliam Clunie)

6. Look at Other Anglers as Teachers
Join a local fly-fishing club and have some fun exchanging techniques with like-minded fishing enthusiasts. Veteran anglers understand that fly fishing is an endless learning process. The best fly rodders around embrace the fact that they’ll never learn it all, and that being a willing student is the key to achieving a higher level of success on the water.

7. Relax…
Fishing Should be Fun
Finally, even the most polished fly caster understands that sometimes fish just don’t cooperate. Throwing everything you know at them and coming up short is part of the game. Study hard, practice with intensity, but fish with a relaxed and open mind. After all, fishing should be fun and not some kind of driving, competitive angst. Catching the big one is a worthy goal, but learning that a fishless day can be satisfying assures lifelong angling pleasure.


william clunie 336x352About William Clunie

A registered Maine master guide, outdoor writer, and nature photographer, author William Clunie is “living the dream” in the rugged mountains of Western Maine. He can be reached at:

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Lucky Lures for Summer Bass Fishing

By Darl Black

The simple secrets of catching bass
in water 10 feet deep or less!

Fishing lures for summer bass

Seven lucky lures for summer largemouth and smallmouth bass. (Photo: Darl Black)

Summertime and bass fishing is easy — or so we like to imagine!

In part, it may seem that fishing is easy because once the spawn is over and water temps climb into the 70s, bass spread out to various cover and various depths. On any given day, you may find some bass shallow, some deep and some suspended in between.

Bass that are relatively shallow will always be easier to catch than bass which are holding tight to deep structure or suspended in the water column. So if you’re an angler who just wants to have fun, concentrate your efforts in water 10 feet or less.

A summer smallmouth bass

Summer smallmouth bass taken on prop bait. (Photo: Darl Black)

Shallow water is comprised of a cornucopia of different cover elements, including weeds, wood, rocky gravel bars, riprap and docks. So, I’ve carefully selected seven lucky lures for summer bass that will help you navigate the shallow water maze.

These baits aren’t lucky in any mystical sense, but they are:

1. Extremely effective. They work for all summer bass, both largemouth and smallmouth.

2. Almost foolproof. Presentation is straightforward — no complicated rod gyrations or difficult-to-master retrieves.

Anglers using lures for summertime bass fishing

Summertime and the bass fishing is easy! Especially if you are using the correct lure! (Photo: Darl Black)

All seven baits can be fished on spinning tackle by anglers who have not mastered the free-spool casting reel. In order to be successful with all seven, you should have a spinning outfit to match up properly with each lure. You’ll need at least two different ones: first, a medium power, moderately fast tip rod with two line spools — one spool of 10 pound test copolymer (monofilament) and one spool of 8-pound fluorocarbon. The second rod should be medium-heavy power fast tip and 15-pound braid. With that, you’re ready for my “lucky seven summer baits” for shallow water situations.

1. Topwater Prop Bait: Fishermen are enthralled when bass bust surface baits. But topwater baits such as dog-walking baits and chuggers require special rod manipulations to ensure the lure works properly. On the other hand, the prop (short for propeller) bait is simple to work, yet very effective for bass cruising the shallows or chasing baitfish schools near the surface in open water. With a prop bait you can employ a steady retrieve or a sweep-pause. My favorite is the Cordell Crazy Shad. It fishes well on spinning gear with 10-pound test copolymer line (monofilament). Do not use sinking fluorocarbon.

2. Frog: When faced with floating pad-style vegetation or matted surface weeds, call on a hollow belly frog! A slow steady retrieve glides the frog lure across the surface of the thick stuff, creating a slight disturbance ripple — a dinner bell for bass living below the mat. Several lure manufacturers offer frogs; most feature heavy duty hooks which require super-stiff casting tackle. However, Booyah offers the Pad Crasher Jr., which is the perfect size for spinning tackle. But even this junior frog should be fished on braided line on a medium-heavy power spinning rod.

A fishing lure on a lily pad

Hollow Body Frog on a pad. (Photo: Darl Black)

3. Square Bill Crankbait: A square-bill crankbait is a bit like a bulldozer — bumping, banging, grinding and weaving its way through shallow water areas where weed growth is minimal. Whether the predator believes this bait is a bluegill, shad or crayfish, it doesn’t matter. The square bill gets the job done by triggering strikes from active and inactive bass. For spinning gear, use one of the smaller model square bills on 10-pound test copolymer line.

Largemouth bass caught during summer

Largemouth taken on Square Bill Crankbait. (Photo: Darl Black)

4. Hinged Jig: Some anglers may wonder about this term. A “hinged jig” (or pivoting swing head) is a foot-shaped leadhead with an attached free-swinging worm hook. Since the hook is not molded into the head, the soft plastic bait on the worm hook has a wide range of motion. What a square bill crank does free-swimming in skinny water, dragging a hinged jig with soft plastic creature attached will do in slightly deeper water on gravel points and along hard bottom edges outside a deep weedline. Gene Larew’s Biffle Hardhead was the first successful hinged jig. While the Hardhead is great on casting tackle, the extra stout hook does not perform well with spinning tackle. For a hinged-jig with a lighter wire hook, check out the Bombshell “Jiggy” Hook. Use a medium-heavy spinning rod with braided line, add a soft plastic creature of your choice to the hook and then retrieve steadily while maintaining bottom contact.

5. Soft Jerkbait: This is one of the most versatile baits of all times. Nose-hook a soft jerkbait on a #2 drop-shot hook or rig it Tex-posed on a 3/0 wide gap worm hook. You won’t find a wrong way to fish one — dart it with erratic rod snaps followed by a pause, sashay it across the surface or drift it with only an occasional twitch. The Lunker City Slug Go was the original, but today every soft plastic manufacturer has one of these in its line. Works best with braided line on the medium-heavy spinning rod.

6. Wacky Stick Worm: Wacky rigging simply means positioning the hook (small wide gap worm hook, drop shot hook or specialty wacky hook) in the center of a four- or five-inch soft plastic worm so both ends wiggle enticingly as it falls through the water column. I prefer a four- or five-inch Yum Dinger stick worm. For summer fishing, a wacky worm is primarily a drop-bait for targets such as dock posts, boat mooring buoys, submerged stumps, deep edge of weedlines, bridge pillars, etc. Works great when bass are in neutral feeding mood. A small bit of weight (1/32 to 3/32) in the form of split shot, pegged worm sinker, insert weight or specialty jighead should be used to actuate the butterfly action of the bait — especially when fishing in water deeper than three or four feet. Fished best on medium power rod with fluorocarbon line. Simply cast, let drop and wait for a hit.

An angler bass fishing in summer

Summer bassin’ fun! (Photo: Darl Black)

7. Drop-Shot Rig: When bass have lockjaw, it’s time to turn to the drop-shot technique. More so than any other lure presentation, drop-shotting teases reluctant bass into striking by repeatedly dancing the bait in front of the fish. Tie a #2 drop shot hook to the line with a Palomar knot, leaving a 15- to 20-inch tag dangling below the knot. To the tag line, clip on a drop-shot 1/4-ounce weight for up to 10 feet of water. Next, nose-hook a four-inch drop-shot bait such as Jackall Cross-Tail Shad or Lunker City Ribster. Make a relatively short cast, let the sinker find bottom and take up slack line. Make sure the sinker continually makes bottom contact, slowly drag the rig along until the sinker encounters resistance from an object on the bottom. Stop the forward retrieve and start shaking the rod tip lightly. Next lower the rod tip slightly so the soft plastic bait drifts toward the bottom. Then shake the tip again as you take up slack and continue dragging until another bottom obstacle is encountered. Then repeat. It’s a slow, methodical process, but if bass are turned off, drop-shotting may be the best approach to draw a bite.

Go fish!

About Darl Black:

Outdoor writer Darl BlackDarl Black is a lifelong freshwater angler and veteran writer/photographer. Darl tackles a wide variety of fishing related stories for print publications and websites. Of all fishing, angling for smallmouth bass is his favorite pastime. He may be reached for assignment at



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