Great Lakes Steelhead Fishing – There’s No Better Time Than December

Great Lakes Steelhead Fishing - Part 1

by Mike Bleech

steelhead-fishing-the-great-lakes-mike-bleech-wading

Steelhead creeks, wherever they are, tend to be among the most scenic places on earth.

There are the seasons as defined on a calendar, then there are seasons in the minds of steelhead anglers. December is the transitional month between fall and winter both on the calendar and along most Great Lakes tributaries. The actual date of the transition, though, does not necessarily fall on the first day of winter. It depends upon weather patterns, upon rain, snow and temperatures

What is great about December is that steelhead have not yet become lethargic. They are full of fight and still prone to aerial acrobatics, not always by the end of the month but almost certainly well into the month. Also, hunting has drawn the more casual steelhead anglers away from the creeks. You might get a pool to yourself on creeks where earlier anglers were crowded elbow to elbow, which is not a fitting situation for any serious steelhead angler. Steelhead fishing is one of life’s great pleasures, something to be done with a degree of reverence. The carnival atmosphere during the balmy days of early summer is exciting, but the relative calm and possible solitude of December allows deeper thought, greater appreciation.

Perhaps my best day of steelhead fishing, although I could recall several other ‘best’ days of steelhead fishing, happened last December on a medium-size Great Lakes tributary. It was midweek and I went alone to a favorite pool, a long pool where steelhead have plenty of room to fight. Weather was not out of the ordinary, threatening to rain which would have made it much less comfortable in 40-degree temperatures. But it never went further than a drizzle.

I started by swinging and slowly stripping a silver and white streamer which produced one missed hit, but nothing else. I switched to my stand-by, a soft egg pattern which I tie simply by adding a very small bit of peach color yarn to the soft plastic egg to simulate skein. Fish were surfacing in front of me, but nothing took my egg so I moved upstream into deeper water. The move paid off.

After releasing two or three steelhead and losing several others at various stages of the battles, my most exciting battle with a steelhead, the largest steelhead I have ever hooked on fly-fishing gear, began. It was on that ‘one more cast’ because light was fading.

During a fight with a big steelhead time becomes irrelevant. I do not know how long this one lasted. The fish made only one long, low jump in the midst of its first run. Had it jumped more, certainly the fight would not have lasted so long. What that jump did accomplish however was reveal the steelhead’s size which made every moment of the struggle more stimulating.

I thought the fight was nearing the end when I started to work the fish toward me. Just as I caught a glimpse of it the water exploded as the huge fish swung its broad tail. The fight was nowhere near its conclusion.

During one of its line-sizzling runs my reel, an English-made Hardy reel, which was a gift several years earlier, just died. I think it got so hot that the spool warped. From that point I had to manage the fish by stripping line. And it seemed like I was going to win when the hook came out on a tight line. The battle had lasted too long.

My immediate reaction was to slump my shoulders in grief. That lasted only briefly. Visions of the magnificent steelhead were making it a great memory less than a minute after the encounter ended. An image of a long, silver fish with a wide iridescent stripe of pink and purple was already burned deep into my mind. It had given me everything I could ever hope for a steelhead to give. Had I worked it into shallow water there was no one around to take a photo. I had no tripod to set up a timed photo, and I would not have taken the chance of killing the fish to do it anyway.

One advantage of ‘the one that got away’ is that it can be any size you wish. But in this case my trophy is the dead Hardy reel which is now on a shelf in my rod room along with numerous other mementos from my countless adventures afield.

Next post: The Incredible Artificial Egg

Click here to see a great steelhead fillet knife – the Havalon Baracuta.

 

Posted in Fishing Tips, Fly Fishing, Guest Writers, Mike Bleech, Steelhead Fishing, Uncategorized | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

How To Hunt Ducks By Jump Shooting – Part 4

Walking to the Ducks

By Bernie Barringer

Duck-hunting-jump-shooting-with-dogHere is where it’s nice to have a well-trained dog but it is not a necessity. If you shoot a duck that lands on the water where it is too deep to wade, you may have to wait a while before the wind blows it to your side, or you may have a long walk to go to the other side. Keep this in mind before you pull the trigger.

Great places to jump shoot on foot include small pothole marshes and ponds, natural cattle tanks, stock dams, drainage ditches, small creeks, farm ponds and even sewage treatment facilities. Yes you heard that right. One of my favorite places to jump-shoot ducks is the treatment ponds of a small town’s sewage treatment plant. The sides are steep and they allow you to sneak right up to the edge and have some really close shooting. And contrary to what you might think, these ponds are actually pretty clean. At least if the ducks think so, I don’t disagree.

Some of the best places I have found to jump-shoot ducks in farm country are drainage ditches. The waters are rarely more than three feet deep so you can navigate them with hip boots. They have steep sides, so often you can walk right up to the edge and look down at the ducks. When the ducks flush, they have no place to go but right up in front of you, or away from you down the ditch. It’s relatively predictable and easy shooting.

If you do not have a particular place you are expecting the ducks to be, it’s a simple matter to walk the sides of the ditch in order to flush the ducks that are hidden within.

Duck-hunting-jump-shooting-wood-ducks

Wood ducks courtesy of US Fish & Wildlife Service.

If you are targeting wood ducks–which are some of the most common ducks you will find in ditches–look for places along these ditches where cover on the sides comes right down to the water, particularly trees and heavier brush. Open-sided ditches are more likely to hold mallards and teal.

Some of the most out-of-the-way places offer good jump-shooting. I know of a small farm pond that has trees surrounding it. It’s less than an acre in size, but at any point during the season, it is likely to have a few woodies using it. It’s a simple matter to approach the pond unseen from below the dam. When I pop up above the dam, any ducks on the pond are in range–and in trouble.

Duck hunting can be as simple or as complicated as you want to make it. You can spend thousands on a duck boat, a blind and a huge raft of decoys. Or you can grab your shotgun and just go shoot some ducks. Do what you like; but for me, I prefer the adventure and the simplicity of the latter.

Do you have any tips for the beginning duck hunter?  Have you had success jump shooting ducks?  Share a comment:

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Seven Mistakes Your Taxidermist Can’t Fix

By Steve Sorensen

taxidermy-deer-head-mount

Your goal - a beautiful mount.

Taxidermy is an art form. The word comes from the Latin taxi, which means “movement,” and derma, which means “skin.” So the taxidermist moves skin from what was once a live specimen to a form that can be preserved and displayed in a lifelike way. Your part is to provide lifelike raw materials for him to work with.  Here’s what to avoid if you expect your taxidermist to give you first rate work:

  1. Handling carelessly in the field. Treat the animal with respect. If you must drag a deer, drag it on both sides. Otherwise, the animal may look worn on one side. Better yet, drag it on a plastic sled or a tarp. And for goodness sake, drag it with the grain of the hair, not against it. Yes, I’ve seen hunters drag deer by the back legs, and it ain’t pretty.
  2.  

  3. Being a show-off. Yes, you should be proud of that trophy, but don’t get carried away with showing it off. Get some good photos and make a few phone calls, but don’t drive all over town with your buck. If you must haul a deer very far in the back of a pickup truck, stop somewhere and roll it over to make sure heat isn’t trapped on the bottom. Protect it from the wind – you don’t want to drive airborne road grime into the hair. Also, deer hair is hollow – it kinks when it bends and it’s easy to break. Same goes for turkeys – feathers are especially easy to ruin. Get it to the taxidermist as soon as possible.
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  5. Leaving the skin on. A deer hide traps heat, and heat stimulates the growth of bacteria. Once bacteria get into the hair follicles the hair will begin to slip and your trophy will be ruined. Warm weather accelerates the process. So, skin him as soon as possible. The meat and the hide will cool more quickly – better for eating and better for mounting.
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  7. Slitting the throat. That’s just one way your knife can ruin a trophy. I saved a newspaper clipping from the local paper of a proud hunter with a high, wide 8-point. You could see, just below the buck’s white throat patch, where the hunter slit the throat to “bleed it out.” Never do that. You’ll cut through hair and it will be impossible for the taxidermist to fix without replacing that section of hide. Besides, putting a knife to the throat of a live deer is a good way to get badly injured. Antlers and hooves hurt. And if he’s dead, you can’t get more blood out of him any other way than normal field dressing. If he isn’t dead, shoot him again.
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  9. Going cheap. Some guys shop around for the cheapest taxidermist, unaware that inferior materials might be the reason for the lower price. Other hunters have a buddy do it for just the cost of materials. No criticism of your buddy, but you need a taxidermist experienced in measuring so he can get the right size form and put eyes, ears, and antlers into proper relationship. A fledgling taxidermist might be doing you a favor, but down the road he’ll probably hope you don’t tell anyone he did it.
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  11. Getting knife crazy. Improper skinning can damage your trophy. At best, it gives the taxidermist extra work. At worst, your mount will show seams that make it look unrealistic. So, don’t make any cuts in the head and neck. Definitely don’t cut up the front of the deer’s neck. Never cut from the outside in; always cut from the inside out. When you separate the head from the carcass leave plenty of skin. Then let your taxidermist skin the head. He knows how to do the eyelids, nose and lips.
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  13. Being ignorant about taxidermy. Actually, this is something your taxidermist can fix – if you stop by his shop before going hunting and ask him for advice on how to handle your animal from the field to his shop. Take his advice, and he’ll give you a better job.

Ideally, the relationship between the hunter and the taxidermist is a two-way mutual admiration society. If he admires the raw materials you bring him, you’re more likely to admire the mount he returns to you. And so will others when they see it on your wall.

About Steve Sorensen…

Outdoor writer and speaker Steve Sorensen has been a fan of knives since he was six, when he began begging his dad to take him hunting. His articles have been published in Deer and Deer Hunting, North American Whitetail, Sports Afield, and many other top magazines across the USA. Invite Steve to speak at your next sportsman’s event, or follow his writing on his website, EverydayHunter.com.

Go to Havalon.com now

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How To Hunt Ducks By Jump Shooting – Part 3

Paddling to the Ducks

By Bernie Barringer

Duck hunting by canoe.There are pros and cons to canoeing to your ducks rather than using a motor. If it is illegal to use the motor, or you just prefer the solitude and the quiet swoosh of a paddle in the water to the purring of a motor, this is another great way to access ducks that are being overlooked by other hunters. Obviously there is an advantage to travelling downstream in a canoe, while it is easier to hunt both upstream and downstream in a motorized craft.

The best bet is to leave one vehicle at the end of the hunt, so you have a way to load the canoes and go back to the upstream launch point and retrieve the other vehicle. It’s a little time-consuming, but it can be a lot more effective and less tiring than paddling back upstream through areas that you have already hunted.

We’ve had some of our best jump shooting by leaving the canoe for short periods. Here’s where the quiet aspects of canoeing will give you an advantage. You will often hear ducks ahead of you, maybe just around the bend. Sometimes you may see ducks land up ahead. Sharp bends in the river offer opportunities to beach the canoe and sneak across a small piece of land.

You can creep up on ducks that would otherwise flush out of range if you came around a bend in the river say 60 yards away. Most of the time, the shot ducks fall in the river and you can jump back in the canoe to retrieve them. If they land aground, it’s a simple matter to paddle across the river and get them. You are your own bird dog.

The same small rivers and streams mentioned above work the best for paddling, but they are not the only option. One year my buddy Jimmy Hill and I shot a bunch of ducks out of a small cattail pond on private land. It was an out-of-the-way little pond, but we slid a canoe into the edge of it and paddled slowly through the openings in the cattails, shooting ducks as they flew up in front of us. Once again, we didn’t have to use any decoys, and during the middle part of the day when the ducks aren’t flying, this is a great way to sneak up on them when they least expect it.

An old rule of thumb holds true: When the ducks are moving, you sit still and wait for them to come to you. When the ducks are sitting still, you move and go to them. That sounds far too basic to have much merit, but it is true in virtually every case.

Next Post: Walking To The Ducks

 

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How To Hunt Ducks By Jump Shooting – Part 2

Motoring to the Ducks

By Bernie Barringer

Duck hunting - motoring to the ducksI’ve already given you a lot of information about this, but here are a couple more tips. The key to this is that you have to get close. Large, straight rivers will not work well for this. The rivers and streams that work the best are small, winding streams with lots of cover along the sides. Wood Ducks love lots of trees along the sides, and mallards are not afraid to drop right into tight places either. Slow current is best. Fast moving current will not hold ducks for long unless there are eddies they can tuck into.

Occasionally you will find a river with wide areas that seem more like marshes. These will attract the same ducks that any marsh would, but it is harder to sneak up on them. Look for tight, necked-down areas. That’s where you will find the best shooting.

Be sure to check your state’s regulations before doing this. There are bound to be regulations regarding shooting with a motor on the boat, shooting while the boat is moving, or shooting while the boat is under power. There is certain to be regulations about the use of life jackets and steel shot too. Can you have your gun out of a case when the boat motor is running? Every state is different. Make sure you know the laws.

Next Post: Paddling To The Ducks

 

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Tips for Booking Hunting Guides and Outfitters

An Interview With Karl Badger, Regional Pro Staff Manager at Mossy Oak

Karl Badger, Pro Staff at Mossy Oak

Q: Should I hunt Western Big Game on my own or with a guide or outfitter?
A: Many premium hunting areas are in wilderness areas, which require a licensed guide. Additionally, a guide will know the area and game habits.

Q: If I need a guide, how do I find a good one?
A: Request a guide and outfitter directory from the state association. Make sure the guide is licensed, ask for referrals, and call the referrals.

Q: I hear that a lot of Western outfitters are ranchers. Do they make good guides?
A: Many do. They hike the country on horseback and are familiar with the country like where water is and game habits.

Q: How much research should I do before booking a hunt out West or in Canada?
A: A lot of research! These hunts cost money and could be a once in a lifetime opportunity.

Q: Is fitness as important as I hear when it comes to hunting out West?
A: Absolutely! High elevation, steep terrain and short, hard days require fitness.

Q: Are combination hunts worth it? Example: Deer/Elk, Bear/Caribou or Moose/Goat.
A: Yes, if you have the time. Tags are expensive and you want to make sure you have enough time to get something on the ground.

Q: Can I hunt big game out West with the same set up I use back East for hunting, either bow or gun?
A: No. Western game like elk, deer, moose and sheep all have different habits and instincts.

Q: I hunt back East with a bow and only shoot 20-30 yards. Do I have to practice and be able to shoot out to 50 yards and beyond?
A: Yes, you need to practice shooting at longer distances.

Q: What is the industry standard for tipping your guide or outfitter?
A: 10-15%. You may also want to tip other help like the cook.

The Mossy Oak ProStaff is a group of top outdoors men and women from across the country that act as spokespersons for the Brand. Members of the Elite ProStaff are people the hunting community will recognize from their hunting expertise and accomplishments, videos, TV and magazine articles. Our Regional ProStaff is a group of accomplished hunters who promote Mossy Oak in various regions across the U.S. They also manage a more localized Field Staff in their regions. From event support to retail store grand openings to radio and TV appearances, our ProStaff adds value to the Mossy Oak Brand nationally, regionally and locally.

Posted in Antelope Hunting, Archery Hunting, Ask Havalon, Bear Hunting, Deer Hunting, Expert Advice, Guest Writers, How to Hunt, Hunting Antelope, Karl Badger, Moose Hunting, Uncategorized | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

How To Hunt Ducks By Jump Shooting

Part 1 – Getting Started with Duck Hunting

By Bernie Barringer

Duck hunting jump shooting across ditch

Jump shooting is a great way to duck hunt on a budget.

Jump shooting ducks is an exciting way to bags ducks without the expense of a lot of duck hunting equipment.  My first experience with duck hunting was pretty much an accident. My buddy Bob and I were just out of high school and running a trapline on a local river. Using a small aluminum boat and a 5-horsepower outboard, we drove up and down the small, winding river as we checked traps.

Several times we came around a bend and a flock of mallards or wood ducks would blast off the water in front of us. This happened two days in a row before we decided to do something about it.

Our mothers didn’t raise any idiots, and we knew we were onto something good. Bob and I went out and bought our state and federal waterfowl permits and stamps, and split the cost of a box of shotgun shells. The following day on the river was something we will remember for a long time.

We were smart enough to check the regulations and discover that we could not shoot ducks when we were under power, so we had to shut off the motor before shooting. Plus for the sake of safety, we decided that only the guy in the front of the boat would do the shooting and we would take turns.

A cold front had moved into the area and we unloaded the boat onto skim ice along the shorelines of the river that morning. The cold weather had moved ducks onto the river like crazy. We had so much fun shooting ducks and before we were done checking traps, we already had our limits of mallards, teal and woodies in the bottom of the boat along with some mink, raccoon and muskrats.

We didn’t know it at the time, but we had found an ideal situation. The ponds and marshes of the area had frozen during the night, and the flowing water of the river was the only open water around. The ducks were piling into it. We learned to look for that situation in the future, and you should too. It’s a situation that creates one of the best shooting opportunities you will find. And you do not have to own a boat and motor to capitalize on great jump shooting opportunities. In fact, you do not have to own anything but a shotgun and a pair of hip boots!

Jump shooting worked so well for Bob and me despite the fact that we didn’t have a duck blind, a duck boat, a bag of decoys or a dog. That’s the beauty of jump shooting: anyone, with any budget, can participate. There are three primary kinds of jump shooting in which I have participated and had success: motoring, paddling and walking.

Next Post: Motoring To The Ducks

 

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Pheasant Hunting Tips

Increase Your Pheasant Hunting Odds
With Tips From The MN DNR

By Scott W. Roemhildt, Minnesota DNR information officer

Pheasant Hunting TipsPheasants may seem elusive and mysterious to some hunters, but they are creatures of habit and follow a regular routine. Understanding how their daily patterns work, will dramatically increase your odds of flushing roosters this fall, according to the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources (DNR).

Just after sunrise, pheasants leave their roosting cover. This is the short to medium grass where they have spent the night. As they move from roosting cover, you’ll see pheasants on roadsides, picking gravel or grit, before they move into crop fields to start feeding. When season opens at 9 a.m., the birds have just about finished breakfast and might be seen working their way through the grassy fringes of fields looking for a safe place to spend the day.

By mid-to late-morning, pheasants have settled into thick, dense cover such as standing corn, brush patches, native grass or wetlands. This is known as loafing cover. Strong winds, precipitation, cold weather or heavy hunting pressure will drive the birds into thicker loafing cover.

By late afternoon pheasants are hungry again and move from loafing areas back into crop fields. They feed until just before sunset, when they head back to roosting cover for the night.

Pheasant Hunting Success Tips:

  • Be ready to hunt at 9 a.m., and take advantage of pheasants on the move. Hunt line fences, the edges of picked cornfields, field access roads and other edge cover.
  • The last hour of the day is known to hunters as the “golden hour.” This is when pheasants are moving from crop fields into roosting cover and can make for great hunting. Don’t miss it.
  • Be quiet! Talk softly, and don’t slam doors. Pheasants heavily rely on hearing to detect danger and may split before you even see them. They get jumpier as the season progresses.
  • Hunt slowly and work in a zigzag pattern. Many hunters speed right past wily roosters. Stopping occasionally will make even the smartest rooster nervous and force a flush.
  • Hunt the backsides of properties, away from roadways. Hunt habitat across creeks and drainage ditches. Most hunters won’t make the effort to reach these challenging areas that often produce.
  • Remember that pheasants are edge birds. Look for places where one type of habitat transitions into another: crops, grass, brush, cattails, ditches and fence lines. Work the edges.
  • Only hunt row crops if you have posters or standers at the end. Without them, pheasants will run down the rows and flush early. Always know where other hunters are located.
  • Don’t hunt standing corn on windy days. The rustling leaves keep you from hearing birds flush and it is more difficult to keep track of dogs or other hunters.
  • Look for grassy patches in picked corn fields. These can be real “honey holes” for pheasants.
  • Hunt the weeks after Thanksgiving. You will have very little competition from other hunters and birds will be more congregated than early in the season. Look for some great hunting.
  • If you shoot a pheasant, immediately mark where it landed and move to that spot. Grass and brush can make downed birds difficult to find.
  • Most of all, be aware of dogs and other hunters, be safe and follow hunting regulations.

What tips do you have to share about pheasant hunting?

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Havalon Announces September Email Winner!

september email winner michael s cook

Havalon Knives is pleased to announce that Michael S. Cook from Utah, has won a free Havalon knife set. Michael was eligible because he subscribed to our email news during the month of September. His choice of prize: the Piranta Edge. He will receive the knife, a set of replacement blades and a knife holster.

If you want to be eligible to win, just sign-up for our email news on the home page of our website. Good Luck!

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Deer Mounting: How To Protect Your Trophy For The Taxidermist

Want To Mount That Deer Head?

By Pat Carrothers

When you finally get that prize deer, you want to do everything you can to preserve the moment.  That could mean taking a deer to the taxidermist for mounting.  If you do everything correctly, your hunting success can live on right on the walls of your house.

First, it is important to field dress a deer in the woods.  You have to cool down the meat as soon as possible and other aspects of the deer will not spoil as fast.

Anytime you go hunting and expect to field dress a kill, you need to have a few essential tools with you.  Make sure you have a sharp skinning knife such as a Havalon Piranta-EDGE.  The knife needs to be an item you are comfortable with no matter what brand you choose.  A short knife is usually easier to handle but you will want to make sure it is sharp and at its best.  There’s nothing as dangerous as a dull knife. It is also a good idea to pack disposable gloves and a few bags so you can carry your trash out of the woods.

Plan on about 20 minutes to field dress your deer.  If you have never gone through the process before, it may take longer.  If you’re an old pro with a Havalon, you’ll be done in five minutes or less.  To make the process go faster and easier, you may want to include a hunting buddy.  You could also take along water and paper towels to help you clean up after you are finished field dressing.

To field dress the deer, first put on the disposable gloves to prevent the transfer of any disease.  Put the deer on its back and find the sternum.  You will then get out your knife, cut from sternum to crotch clear through the hide and membrane.  Make sure you do not cut into the guts.

Once the cut has been made, take the guts out of the deer starting at the crotch.  You can do this while cutting the membranes that link the spine to the interior of the deer.  Be careful not to cut too closely to the spine or you could damage the tenderloins.  As you make these cuts and pull out the guts, expect to see plenty of blood.

As you near the end of this portion of field dressing, find the last membrane, sever it, and pull the rest of the guts from the deer.  You can then cut through the pelvic bone and cut the skin around the anus so you can pull the colon out.  Some prefer to cut around the “vent” first and work their way forward.  The key is to keep bacteria off the meat you want.  At that time, you can take the heart, liver, and lungs out.

How To Protect The Deer Head For Mounting

Protect the deer’s head as you drag it out of the woods.  You want to put the hooves above its head.  Plan for a way to shield the head and hide while you are dragging it out of the woods.   Avoid sharp branches or rocks that lay on the floor of the forest.   Then get your deer to a taxidermist as soon as possible.

If you have to pack out the deer head, be careful not to cut into the neck hide.  You want to deliver much more hide than it seems like you should attached to the head.  That’s why they call it “caping,” since you leave a long cape of hide still attached to the head of your trophy with no incisions in the neck, especially the front neck.  Start skinning for the cape just behind the front shoulders.

According to Bill Vaznis, professional hunter and writer, there are three common mistakes to avoid.

  1. Do not slit the deer’s throat to bleed it out. This kind of error is nearly impossible to repair. If the deer is dead it has already bled out.
  2. Begin caping (skinning) your buck from BEHIND the front legs, pull the hide back towards the head and sever the head at the base of the skull.  This will give your taxidermist an ample amount of hide to work with. If you must cut the hide, cut it along the top of the neck. Your taxidermist can sew the hide…you will never see the stitches.
  3. If you can skin a fox or mink, skinning out the head of your deer is easy. If not, get the head to a taxidermist ASAP or put the head and hide in a freezer. If you elect to freeze the head and hide…do not salt it or it will spoil even though it is in the freezer.

The outcome of the taxidermy process greatly depends on what you do when you field dress your deer and how you care for the head or pack the head for the taxidermist.

Steve Sorensen, TheEverydayHunter.com, sums it up this way:

“The hunter should handle his buck like it’s the raw materials for top notch art. Keep it clean, cool it as quickly as possible, protect it from the wind in the back of your truck, and get it to the taxidermist as soon as possible.”

Got a tip on how you would protect a trophy for the taxidermist?  Share it below.

 

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