Great Lakes Steelhead Fishing – There’s No Better Time Than December

Great Lakes Steelhead Fishing – Part 1

by Mike Bleech

steelhead-fishing-the-great-lakes-mike-bleech-wading

Steelhead creeks, wherever they are, tend to be among the most scenic places on earth.

There are the seasons as defined on a calendar, then there are seasons in the minds of steelhead anglers. December is the transitional month between fall and winter both on the calendar and along most Great Lakes tributaries. The actual date of the transition, though, does not necessarily fall on the first day of winter. It depends upon weather patterns, upon rain, snow and temperatures

What is great about December is that steelhead have not yet become lethargic. They are full of fight and still prone to aerial acrobatics, not always by the end of the month but almost certainly well into the month. Also, hunting has drawn the more casual steelhead anglers away from the creeks. You might get a pool to yourself on creeks where earlier anglers were crowded elbow to elbow, which is not a fitting situation for any serious steelhead angler. Steelhead fishing is one of life’s great pleasures, something to be done with a degree of reverence. The carnival atmosphere during the balmy days of early summer is exciting, but the relative calm and possible solitude of December allows deeper thought, greater appreciation.

Perhaps my best day of steelhead fishing, although I could recall several other ‘best’ days of steelhead fishing, happened last December on a medium-size Great Lakes tributary. It was midweek and I went alone to a favorite pool, a long pool where steelhead have plenty of room to fight. Weather was not out of the ordinary, threatening to rain which would have made it much less comfortable in 40-degree temperatures. But it never went further than a drizzle.

I started by swinging and slowly stripping a silver and white streamer which produced one missed hit, but nothing else. I switched to my stand-by, a soft egg pattern which I tie simply by adding a very small bit of peach color yarn to the soft plastic egg to simulate skein. Fish were surfacing in front of me, but nothing took my egg so I moved upstream into deeper water. The move paid off.

After releasing two or three steelhead and losing several others at various stages of the battles, my most exciting battle with a steelhead, the largest steelhead I have ever hooked on fly-fishing gear, began. It was on that ‘one more cast’ because light was fading.

During a fight with a big steelhead time becomes irrelevant. I do not know how long this one lasted. The fish made only one long, low jump in the midst of its first run. Had it jumped more, certainly the fight would not have lasted so long. What that jump did accomplish however was reveal the steelhead’s size which made every moment of the struggle more stimulating.

I thought the fight was nearing the end when I started to work the fish toward me. Just as I caught a glimpse of it the water exploded as the huge fish swung its broad tail. The fight was nowhere near its conclusion.

During one of its line-sizzling runs my reel, an English-made Hardy reel, which was a gift several years earlier, just died. I think it got so hot that the spool warped. From that point I had to manage the fish by stripping line. And it seemed like I was going to win when the hook came out on a tight line. The battle had lasted too long.

My immediate reaction was to slump my shoulders in grief. That lasted only briefly. Visions of the magnificent steelhead were making it a great memory less than a minute after the encounter ended. An image of a long, silver fish with a wide iridescent stripe of pink and purple was already burned deep into my mind. It had given me everything I could ever hope for a steelhead to give. Had I worked it into shallow water there was no one around to take a photo. I had no tripod to set up a timed photo, and I would not have taken the chance of killing the fish to do it anyway.

One advantage of ‘the one that got away’ is that it can be any size you wish. But in this case my trophy is the dead Hardy reel which is now on a shelf in my rod room along with numerous other mementos from my countless adventures afield.

Next post: The Incredible Artificial Egg

Click here to see a great steelhead fillet knife – the Havalon Baracuta.

 

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How To Hunt Ducks By Jump Shooting – Part 4

Walking to the Ducks

By Bernie Barringer

Duck-hunting-jump-shooting-with-dogHere is where it’s nice to have a well-trained dog but it is not a necessity. If you shoot a duck that lands on the water where it is too deep to wade, you may have to wait a while before the wind blows it to your side, or you may have a long walk to go to the other side. Keep this in mind before you pull the trigger.

Great places to jump shoot on foot include small pothole marshes and ponds, natural cattle tanks, stock dams, drainage ditches, small creeks, farm ponds and even sewage treatment facilities. Yes you heard that right. One of my favorite places to jump-shoot ducks is the treatment ponds of a small town’s sewage treatment plant. The sides are steep and they allow you to sneak right up to the edge and have some really close shooting. And contrary to what you might think, these ponds are actually pretty clean. At least if the ducks think so, I don’t disagree.

Some of the best places I have found to jump-shoot ducks in farm country are drainage ditches. The waters are rarely more than three feet deep so you can navigate them with hip boots. They have steep sides, so often you can walk right up to the edge and look down at the ducks. When the ducks flush, they have no place to go but right up in front of you, or away from you down the ditch. It’s relatively predictable and easy shooting.

If you do not have a particular place you are expecting the ducks to be, it’s a simple matter to walk the sides of the ditch in order to flush the ducks that are hidden within.

Duck-hunting-jump-shooting-wood-ducks

Wood ducks courtesy of US Fish & Wildlife Service.

If you are targeting wood ducks–which are some of the most common ducks you will find in ditches–look for places along these ditches where cover on the sides comes right down to the water, particularly trees and heavier brush. Open-sided ditches are more likely to hold mallards and teal.

Some of the most out-of-the-way places offer good jump-shooting. I know of a small farm pond that has trees surrounding it. It’s less than an acre in size, but at any point during the season, it is likely to have a few woodies using it. It’s a simple matter to approach the pond unseen from below the dam. When I pop up above the dam, any ducks on the pond are in range–and in trouble.

Duck hunting can be as simple or as complicated as you want to make it. You can spend thousands on a duck boat, a blind and a huge raft of decoys. Or you can grab your shotgun and just go shoot some ducks. Do what you like; but for me, I prefer the adventure and the simplicity of the latter.

Do you have any tips for the beginning duck hunter?  Have you had success jump shooting ducks?  Share a comment:

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Seven Mistakes Your Taxidermist Can’t Fix

By Steve Sorensen

taxidermy-deer-head-mount

Your goal - a beautiful mount.

Taxidermy is an art form. The word comes from the Latin taxi, which means “movement,” and derma, which means “skin.” So the taxidermist moves skin from what was once a live specimen to a form that can be preserved and displayed in a lifelike way. Your part is to provide lifelike raw materials for him to work with.  Here’s what to avoid if you expect your taxidermist to give you first rate work:

  1. Handling carelessly in the field. Treat the animal with respect. If you must drag a deer, drag it on both sides. Otherwise, the animal may look worn on one side. Better yet, drag it on a plastic sled or a tarp. And for goodness sake, drag it with the grain of the hair, not against it. Yes, I’ve seen hunters drag deer by the back legs, and it ain’t pretty.
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  3. Being a show-off. Yes, you should be proud of that trophy, but don’t get carried away with showing it off. Get some good photos and make a few phone calls, but don’t drive all over town with your buck. If you must haul a deer very far in the back of a pickup truck, stop somewhere and roll it over to make sure heat isn’t trapped on the bottom. Protect it from the wind – you don’t want to drive airborne road grime into the hair. Also, deer hair is hollow – it kinks when it bends and it’s easy to break. Same goes for turkeys – feathers are especially easy to ruin. Get it to the taxidermist as soon as possible.
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  5. Leaving the skin on. A deer hide traps heat, and heat stimulates the growth of bacteria. Once bacteria get into the hair follicles the hair will begin to slip and your trophy will be ruined. Warm weather accelerates the process. So, skin him as soon as possible. The meat and the hide will cool more quickly – better for eating and better for mounting.
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  7. Slitting the throat. That’s just one way your knife can ruin a trophy. I saved a newspaper clipping from the local paper of a proud hunter with a high, wide 8-point. You could see, just below the buck’s white throat patch, where the hunter slit the throat to “bleed it out.” Never do that. You’ll cut through hair and it will be impossible for the taxidermist to fix without replacing that section of hide. Besides, putting a knife to the throat of a live deer is a good way to get badly injured. Antlers and hooves hurt. And if he’s dead, you can’t get more blood out of him any other way than normal field dressing. If he isn’t dead, shoot him again.
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  9. Going cheap. Some guys shop around for the cheapest taxidermist, unaware that inferior materials might be the reason for the lower price. Other hunters have a buddy do it for just the cost of materials. No criticism of your buddy, but you need a taxidermist experienced in measuring so he can get the right size form and put eyes, ears, and antlers into proper relationship. A fledgling taxidermist might be doing you a favor, but down the road he’ll probably hope you don’t tell anyone he did it.
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  11. Getting knife crazy. Improper skinning can damage your trophy. At best, it gives the taxidermist extra work. At worst, your mount will show seams that make it look unrealistic. So, don’t make any cuts in the head and neck. Definitely don’t cut up the front of the deer’s neck. Never cut from the outside in; always cut from the inside out. When you separate the head from the carcass leave plenty of skin. Then let your taxidermist skin the head. He knows how to do the eyelids, nose and lips.
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  13. Being ignorant about taxidermy. Actually, this is something your taxidermist can fix – if you stop by his shop before going hunting and ask him for advice on how to handle your animal from the field to his shop. Take his advice, and he’ll give you a better job.

Ideally, the relationship between the hunter and the taxidermist is a two-way mutual admiration society. If he admires the raw materials you bring him, you’re more likely to admire the mount he returns to you. And so will others when they see it on your wall.

About Steve Sorensen…

Outdoor writer and speaker Steve Sorensen has been a fan of knives since he was six, when he began begging his dad to take him hunting. His articles have been published in Deer and Deer Hunting, North American Whitetail, Sports Afield, and many other top magazines across the USA. Invite Steve to speak at your next sportsman’s event, or follow his writing on his website, EverydayHunter.com.

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How To Hunt Ducks By Jump Shooting – Part 3

Paddling to the Ducks

By Bernie Barringer

Duck hunting by canoe.There are pros and cons to canoeing to your ducks rather than using a motor. If it is illegal to use the motor, or you just prefer the solitude and the quiet swoosh of a paddle in the water to the purring of a motor, this is another great way to access ducks that are being overlooked by other hunters. Obviously there is an advantage to travelling downstream in a canoe, while it is easier to hunt both upstream and downstream in a motorized craft.

The best bet is to leave one vehicle at the end of the hunt, so you have a way to load the canoes and go back to the upstream launch point and retrieve the other vehicle. It’s a little time-consuming, but it can be a lot more effective and less tiring than paddling back upstream through areas that you have already hunted.

We’ve had some of our best jump shooting by leaving the canoe for short periods. Here’s where the quiet aspects of canoeing will give you an advantage. You will often hear ducks ahead of you, maybe just around the bend. Sometimes you may see ducks land up ahead. Sharp bends in the river offer opportunities to beach the canoe and sneak across a small piece of land.

You can creep up on ducks that would otherwise flush out of range if you came around a bend in the river say 60 yards away. Most of the time, the shot ducks fall in the river and you can jump back in the canoe to retrieve them. If they land aground, it’s a simple matter to paddle across the river and get them. You are your own bird dog.

The same small rivers and streams mentioned above work the best for paddling, but they are not the only option. One year my buddy Jimmy Hill and I shot a bunch of ducks out of a small cattail pond on private land. It was an out-of-the-way little pond, but we slid a canoe into the edge of it and paddled slowly through the openings in the cattails, shooting ducks as they flew up in front of us. Once again, we didn’t have to use any decoys, and during the middle part of the day when the ducks aren’t flying, this is a great way to sneak up on them when they least expect it.

An old rule of thumb holds true: When the ducks are moving, you sit still and wait for them to come to you. When the ducks are sitting still, you move and go to them. That sounds far too basic to have much merit, but it is true in virtually every case.

Next Post: Walking To The Ducks

 

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How To Hunt Ducks By Jump Shooting – Part 2

Motoring to the Ducks

By Bernie Barringer

Duck hunting - motoring to the ducksI’ve already given you a lot of information about this, but here are a couple more tips. The key to this is that you have to get close. Large, straight rivers will not work well for this. The rivers and streams that work the best are small, winding streams with lots of cover along the sides. Wood Ducks love lots of trees along the sides, and mallards are not afraid to drop right into tight places either. Slow current is best. Fast moving current will not hold ducks for long unless there are eddies they can tuck into.

Occasionally you will find a river with wide areas that seem more like marshes. These will attract the same ducks that any marsh would, but it is harder to sneak up on them. Look for tight, necked-down areas. That’s where you will find the best shooting.

Be sure to check your state’s regulations before doing this. There are bound to be regulations regarding shooting with a motor on the boat, shooting while the boat is moving, or shooting while the boat is under power. There is certain to be regulations about the use of life jackets and steel shot too. Can you have your gun out of a case when the boat motor is running? Every state is different. Make sure you know the laws.

Next Post: Paddling To The Ducks

 

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