Which Trail Camera? How? When? Where?

Tips To Help You Decide Which Trail Camera To Choose

By Steve Sorensen

which-trail-camera-doe-eyes

Who's spying on who? Trail cameras are entertaining as well as informative.

You’ve finally decided to spring for a trail camera. You’ve waited a long time because you’re “old school.” Maybe you even wonder what your grandfather would have thought.

If you’re “old school,” my hat is off to you. There is something to be said for the traditional ways. But does that mean you use a magnetic compass instead of a GPS? Punkin balls and smooth bores instead of modern ammo from a rifled barrel? Some scraps of lumber nailed in a tree instead of a new load-tested, safety-first climber? You get the picture. It’s called progress, and progress isn’t all bad. Once in a while you gotta say, “Never mind what Grandpa would have thought.”

Our grandfathers could never have imagined the hunting tools we have today. Fifty years ago Grandpa might have tied a piece of thread across a trail to determine roughly when a deer walked by. Today we can know exactly when a deer shows up at a certain place, and we can see the actual deer, plus every other animal that passes by.

Here are the hows, the whens, and the wheres of using that new trail camera.

HOW TO CHOOSE A TRAIL CAMERA

Use the Internet to compare specifications of the trail cameras in your price range, but place a high priority on what’s easiest to use. That advice isn’t just for beginners. It’s for everyone – because the easier a camera is to use, the less time it takes to check them, and the less time you spend spreading your scent around.

I use the Bushnell Trophy Cam and the Moultrie Game Spy M-80. Those aren’t the only ones to consider, but I like them because they have the video and still features I want, and they’re fast and easy to use. They get terrific pictures, too.

WHEN TO USE YOUR TRAIL CAMERA

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Setting up your trail camera on a licking branch, or making your own, can give you a good read on bucks in the area.

Trail cameras can be used all year ’round, but the best times to use them is when bucks are growing their antlers and during the days up to and including the hunting season. Some hunters look for shed antlers in the spring so they know what bucks survived the hunting season. Using trail cameras in the dead of winter can give you the same information.

Virtually any time is a good time to use scouting cameras, as long as you have the time to check them.

WHERE TO PUT YOUR TRAIL CAMERA

Naturally, we use “trail cameras” on trails. Finding good deer runways takes a little time, so look for trails whenever you’re in the woods. A great time to find trails is before spring green-up when they’re a lot more obvious. While looking for shed antlers or hunting spring gobblers, take note of good locations for trail cameras.

However, trails aren’t the only places to set up your cameras. You can set them up at food plots, or along the edges of cropfields where deer feed. When using your cameras at natural food sources or along trails to food sources, remember that food sources change.

Set cameras at “licking branches” during the summer and fall while bucks are in bachelor groups. These are places where they lick, chew and rub their scent to tell other bucks “I’m in the game.” They’re sizing up their competition.

Find a licking branch or make your own. Choose a flexible limb about five feet high and deposit a drop of lure from a buck’s pre-orbital gland (www.SmokeysDeerLure.com) on it. You should get bucks posing for pictures, nose on the branch, wondering “Who’s the new guy?”

Next post: Five Tips for Setting Up Your Trail Cameras

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Muzzleloading: How To Get Started – Part 3

Cleaning Your Muzzloader

By Ed Hall

muzzleloading-wonder-lube-and-cleaner

Wonderlube is just that, a wonderful barrel lube.

Ah, cleaning your muzzleloader, whether you fire one shot or a dozen, is a necessity. Even if your 777 pellet residue is not in its own highly corrosive, it will absorb moisture and hold it against your bore, eventually resulting in rust.

One advantage of most of the new styles of muzzle loaders is that they do not need major disassembly for cleaning. The Traditions Pursuit for example has a readily accessible breechplug, unscrewed with just fingers or an included small spanner wrench.

Cleaning solutions for muzzleloaders are mostly water. In a pinch, use a dilute solution of a household cleaner such as Simple Green, though Hodgdon says just water is fine. I like a “range rod”, a longer rod having a knob handle for home use,  find it easier than using the ramrod and its six-inch extension.

I like to use a wet toothbrush to clean any part of the rifle having any of the residue from firing. (I’m extremely fussy about my guns.) After cleaning, if at all possible, I run hot water through the barrel in the bathtub and wipe it dry. The barrel, being quite warm, guarantees any wetness will quickly dry.

Wonderlube is just that, a wonderful barrel lubricant. After cleaning, and between shots at the range and in the field when I can, I clean with one tight damp patch down the bore followed by a dry patch, then a couple of strokes with a Wonderlube patch.

Muzzleloader-breech-plug

One of the grandest inventions in muzzleloading: the removeable breech plug.

I’ve saved the breech plug for last. As I said earlier, its tiny hole passes the primer fire into the powder charge. Find a tiny strand such as from a brass wire brush to insure that tiny passage is clean. Clean breech plugs very well and lube the threads before screwing the breech plug back in place.

One of the grandest inventions in modern muzzleloading is the removable breech plug. Nowadays we simply unscrew the breech plug to make cleaning a much simpler chore. Simply push a cleaning patch all the way through the barrel and out the muzzle rather than pushing a patch from the muzzle down, and hopefully pulling it back out.

Final instruction: Aim at a trophy buck and squeeze the trigger!

 

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Muzzleloading: How To Get Started – Part 2

How To Choose Powder and Bullets For Your Muzzleloader

By Ed Hall

muzzleloader powder and bulletsThere are three propellant options: real black powder, replica black powder and replica black powder formed into pellets. Real black powder is very hygroscopic; it readily absorbs moisture, and is messy to work with. The residue from real black powder is extremely corrosive, so much so that fired guns, left with any amount of ambient moisture, will be damaged in a weekend and ruined in a couple of weeks. Also important is that real black powder is considered an explosive for shipping and storage. I don’t wear buckskins, and I don’t shoot black powder.

Loose replica black powder must be carefully measured for each shot, but the pelletized version is much easier to deal with and is the common choice among muzzleloaders today.

muzzleloader-powder-pellets

Pellets of replica black powder are much easier to use than loose black powder.

Hodgdon pelletized replica black powder is such that two pellets propel a typical 250-grain bullet just a bit faster than a .44 Magnum rifle, with a muzzle velocity of 1,785 ft/s, according to Hodgdon. Driving a controlled expansion fat bullet at that velocity is a most lethal prescription out to, say, 150 yards.

Hodgdon is one of our major smokeless powder companies and their black powder replica “Triple Seven” outsells all of its competition combined. The Hodgdon predecessor was Pyrodex, and it is still available, similarly packaged and sitting alongside 777 on the shelves. I advise against its use because the dark end is a bit of real black powder to better ensure ignition – – and it leaves the same highly corrosive residue. If your gun shop has only Pyrodex left on the shelf, find another gun shop.

Triple Seven pellets, if they take a soaking, will fail to fire, but they are so non-hygroscopic that the container they come in is not sealed against moisture. There is a new pellet on the market called ‘White Hots’ made by IMR, but then, IMR is owned by Hodgdon. Cleanup with 777 and White Hots is with just plain water.

One 777 pellet is the equivalent power of 50 grains of black powder, (although they weigh considerably less). A standard deer hunting load is 100 grains, or two pellets. It is possible to find pellets having less than 50 grain equivalent, if you wanted, say an 80 grain load using a 50 and a 30 grain pellet.

Hodgdon recommends against the common practice of using three 777 pellets for more velocity, and instead recommends two of their 777 Magnum Pellets, upping the muzzle velocity to 2,010 ft/s. Using a 150-yard zero, you’ll be about two inches high at 100, and six inches low at 200 yards.

Choosing The Muzzleloader Bullet

Almost nobody hunts deer with a traditional patched round ball anymore. They do get the job done at modest ranges and are seemingly faster, but they are a bit light and ballistically poorly shaped and lose their punch very quickly.

The cloth patch has transitioned to a plastic cup having a gas seal at the bottom. It has been named the French word for shoe, sah-BOW, though most folks say SAY-bow.

Muzzleloader-sabots-from-Barnes-and-Traditions

Muzzleloader sabots from Barnes and Traditions.

The better bullet itself took a bit longer, as early saboted bullets were merely jacketed handgun bullets driven faster than they were designed for. Only in the past dozen years or so have dedicated muzzleloader saboted bullets been available, having proper construction for muzzleloader velocities and pointed tips to slice through the air. (A few states have special bullet requirements.)

Today there are typically two bullet weights available, 250 and 300 grains. In my humble opinion, the 250-grain is for deer and the 300 is for elk, but if you want to better ensure an exit wound on your deer, choose the 300. I use Traditions Smackdown bullets made by Hornady.

Legally-Loaded Muzzleloaders?

Check local laws, but generally a muzzleloader is considered legally unloaded when the primer, the cap, or in the case of a flintlock, the priming powder, is absent. A charge and bullet in the barrel doesn’t make it loaded, so you need not fire your rifle at the end of the day if you must transport your rifle in a vehicle.

In wet weather I put a small piece of rubber where the primer goes for overnight storage.   I always store and hunt with my muzzleloader with a strip of electrical tape over the muzzle.  I tape the muzzle of all my guns to keep out moisture and bits of bark when I lean it against a tree. It also reminds me that I have a charge in my muzzleloader.

Next post: Cleaning Your Muzzleloader

Anyone have success hunting with a muzzleoader so far?  Leave a comment here:

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Muzzleloading: How To Get Started

How to Get Started Hunting with a Muzzleloader – Part 1

By Ed Hall

The New Muzzleloaders Are Easy To Master

muzzleloader-how-to-get-started-for-huntingBuckskin shirts notwithstanding, hunting muzzleloaders for deer and larger game have come a long way.  You can still hunt with a flintlock, and deal with “phffft-bang,” sulphur smell and dutiful cleanup if you want.  But there’s no stink, no inaccuracy, no limited punch and range, no misfires, no hangfires, no weather issues and no more messy cleanup if you choose to hunt with a modern muzzleloader.

The new muzzleloaders are easy to master. I would hope you’d get in some practice sessions, but a bit of reading and a few shots at the range and you can be ready to hunt.

You can expect your modern muzzleloader to just about duplicate the performance of either .44 Magnum or .45-70 cartridges in a rifle, the same jacketed bullets, the same riflescope, and the same two-inch (or better) groups at 100 yards and four inch groups at 200. Even better, modern muzzleloader bullets are nicely pointed for better long range performance.

There was a time about a dozen years ago when you had to decide between .45 and .50 caliber muzzleloaders, but new .45’s have all but disappeared from the gunshops.  I prefer a .45 for deer as its forty caliber bullet has plenty of punch, but the .50 reigns.

The New Muzzleloaders Are Easy to Load

First fire off a primer or two to rid the barrel of moisture. Then drop two pellets of powder into the barrel, push a pointed, jacketed bullet in its plastic cup down the bore, affix a shotgun primer and close the breech to protect it from weather.

Muzzleloader-Traditions-breechplug

The breechplug of the Traditions Pursuit.

Modern muzzleloaders come with a breech plug that is screwed into the end of the barrel, so all the pressure upon firing is in the barrel and held by the breechplug. The ‘action’ of the muzzleloader needs no strength to contain pressure; it just affords a hammer and a trigger, and perhaps an additional sliding safety.

The shotgun primer is placed in a recess in the breechplug, where a tiny hole feeds its fire into the main charge. The hole is very tiny so burning gasses don’t spray back into the action. The action seals the primer against falling out and against weather.

Take a read at Traditions Performance Firearms, dedicated to muzzleloaders and all the accessories you might ever want. They have a new Pursuit Ultralight, the lightest muzzleloading rifle ever at 5.1 pounds, as the breaking trend in rifles today is light weight. Other catalogs to peruse are Thompson/Center and CVA.

Next post: What Type of Powder to Choose

 

 

 

 

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Great Lakes Steelhead Fishing – Part 2

The Incredible Artificial Egg for Great Lakes Steelhead

By Mike Bleech

great-lakes-steelhead-artificial-eggs

Upper left - Glo Bugs, lower left - Sucker spawn, lower right - soft egg patterns. For contrast, dark nymph patterns (also steelhead favorites) in the upper right.

Collecting an endless assortment of flies is integral to the fly-fishing lifestyle.
None of what I am about to tell you however has limited the number of steelhead flies in my vests, boxes, drawers and shelves. It is true nonetheless.

It occurred to me one day that a large majority of the steelhead I have hooked over my career hit some sort of egg pattern, with the most popular being a soft egg pattern sparsely dressed with yarn.

I randomly surveyed some friends and acquaintances who are serious about steelhead fishing about this matter. In the end, every one of them came to the conclusion that their experience has been similar to mine. Most had their own favorite fly patterns which were not egg patterns, but upon reflection it was the various egg patterns that actually caught the most steelhead for them. More specifically, it came down to Glo Bugs, Sucker Spawn, soft egg patterns and other egg imitations.

This hardly narrows a fly collection down. If you have done a lot of steelhead fishing then you have caught steelhead on countless different combinations of sizes and colors and now you feel you must carry all of these whenever you fish for steelhead, which of course is impossible.

My good friend Jim Simonelli prefers Glo Bugs. Those he ties do not look much like Glo Bugs in tackle shops. Everyone who has tied flies for long understands that the flies most fly-fishers would choose to purchase are not the ones that are most effective on the stream. Shoppers want full, neat, finely detailed flies. Steelhead prefer sparsely tied flies. Real life is not neat and tidy, it is messy and dirty and ragged from living.

THE SYSTEM

great-lakes-steelhead-artificial-eggs

This steelhead fell for a small egg sack dressed with a pink floater.

There is system to all of this disarray. Indeed, there are reasons for different fly sizes and colors.  People like to narrow things down to what, where, when and why. We like to think we understand things. Whether this system for choosing egg patterns is true to the degree I believe is not important. All that is important is that the egg pattern works.

Usually systems start at an end and finish at another end. This steelhead system starts in the middle with eggs of natural color and size: A shade of orange and a size based on the type of egg, usually either salmon or steelhead, but sometimes sucker. These egg patterns probably could be used exclusively with a high degree of success.

Regarding steelhead eggs, they are almost always fished in the form of skein. There is not much in the way of variables, except for size. The rule of thumb with steelhead skein is to use a small piece of skein in clear water, then increase the size with darkening water color.

Salmon eggs can be fished as skein, as single eggs, or as a group of single eggs in egg sacks. This provides for much more variability. The rule of thumb with salmon eggs is to use single eggs in very clear water. With darkening water color use egg sacks or skein in increasingly larger sizes.

Also as the weather darkens use brighter colors on the material used for egg sacks, and add floaters, which are essentially imitation eggs, in brighter colors.

Steelhead are likely to be skittish in clear water, and mild colors including white, light pink, or orange are choices that will be effective. Small eggs most likely will be the ones that steelhead take, or the Sucker Spawn pattern.

Natural colors and sizes can be effective under what most anglers would consider perfect steelhead fishing conditions, that being when the creeks have a little heavier flow and some color such as you might see during the morning of an all-day rain.

Now, by natural color I mean the tint of a natural salmon egg, a medium orange. My fly boxes will hold at least three shades of medium orange, and they are there for good reason. An exception might be after the steelhead have seen too many of these patterns, when fishing pressure is heavy. Chartreuse can be effective at times like this.

As the water gets more and more color however switch to more brightly colored flies. Try deeper oranges, then reds. Use larger sizes. Some expert steelhead anglers will use Glow Bugs that are an inch in diameter.

Of course like most steelhead anglers I carry a large assortment of steelhead patterns. However, if I had to stick with just one pattern it would undoubtedly be an artificial egg. That still leaves a lot of room for wiggle.

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