Deer Hunting: Rifle or Shotgun? – Part 2

Shotgunning for Deer – Fully Rifled Barrels

By Steve Sorensen

 

teaser box 3a 336x336You can spray buckshot at a close-range running deer, or you can throw punkin balls at them. Or, you can upgrade to a shotgun with a rifled choke tube. All of these have accounted for many deer through the years.

But today, it’s possible to have a shotgun with a fully-rifled barrel that behaves much like a rifle.

Fully Rifled Barrels

In an effort to improve shotgun capabilities for shotgun-only areas, many manufacturers now offer shotguns with fully rifled barrels. Your granddad never dreamed of a rifled barrel on his old shootin’ iron.

Barrels engraved with rifling impart rifle-like accuracy, carry a truckload of energy with today’s modern slugs, and deliver deep, bone-busting penetration. While prevailing wisdom still holds that shotguns are short-range weapons, but some of them can reach out and touch the boiler room of a whitetail at distances unheard of for shotguns.

None of this should be surprising when you look at the new Savage Model 220F and the re-introduced Browning A-Bolt. Both are based on the respective company’s rifles. The 220F is built on the proven and popular Savage Model 110 rifle action, and the A-Bolt configuration is a staple in Browning’s rifle line. You can’t go wrong with either one.

Savage-220F-640x480

In building the Savage 220F, Savage started with their accurate 110 bolt action.

A buddy of mine has the Browning A-Bolt, and I have the Savage with a camouflage synthetic stock. Savage understands that a lot depends on the trigger, so they install the Savage AccuTrigger on this gun, which is set to break at about 3 pounds. If there’s any creep associated with that trigger, it’s the one who owns the finger that squeezes it.

I also like the Savage because it’s lighter than most slug guns, and the bolt action with a detachable magazine handles and feels like a rifle. Target acquisition is rifle-like – when I shoulder it the scope is perfectly centered in front of my eye. Scopes, incidentally, are something shotguns of yesteryear virtually never wore, but today’s shotguns use them to wring out all the accuracy that’s built into these guns.

Testing Ammunition

And, speaking of accuracy, I tested six different loads. All fire saboted slugs – bullets encased in a plastic shield that is shed once the bullet leaves the barrel. The first groups I shot were marginally satisfactory, but I loosened and then tightened the stock bedding screws a bit, and the groups shrunk.

testing ammo chart
The Remington 2¾” gave me the best three-shot group – an astonishing .61″ center-to-center at 100 yards. It’s only 50 feet per second slower than the 3″ Remington, which consistently grouped at 1½” to 2″. This AccuTip bullet has a great reputation for accuracy from the Savage 220F, and for deadly terminal performance. All others grouped plenty tight enough to make me comfortable with any of them.

Target-480x520

This surprisingly small 3-shot group of .61″ would be impressive even from a rifle.

Virtually every review I’ve read of the Savage 220F showed similar accuracy results, all more than adequate for deer hunting, and the best loads make this a 200-yard gun.

I toted the Savage a few times last fall in New York, and always felt like I was carrying a rifle. Unfortunately, the days I carried it were the same days deer made themselves scarce.

I look forward to taking it out again this year, and it might accompany me to Todd Frank’s Clear Creek Outfitters in Lancaster, Ohio. Todd and his family run a great operation, and will do their best to put you on a great buck.

If you’re looking to hunt a shotgun state, or want one gun that will perform equally well in shotgun or rifle states, you need to consider a shotgun with a rifled barrel. It’s a far better deerslayer than granddad’s old smoothbore, and it will bring home the venison without needing the luck he sometimes depended on when he launched punkin balls.

***

About Steve Sorensen

steve-sorensen-head-shotAward-winning outdoor writer and speaker Steve Sorensen loves the Havalon knife, and has been a fan of knives since he begged his dad for a hunting knife when he was six years old. His articles have been published in Deer & Deer Hunting, Sports Afield, and many other top magazines across the USA. Invite Steve to speak at your next sportsman’s event, and follow his writing on his website, www.EverydayHunter.com.

 

For more atricles by Steve Sorensen, click here.
And for the best deer skinning knife, click here

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Deer Hunting: Rifle or Shotgun? – Part 1

Shotgunning for Deer – Smoothbores and Choke Tubes

By Steve Sorensen

 

teaser box 2The one time, long ago, when I hunted deer with a shotgun was in North Carolina where I was invited by a friend to join a club hunt. I loaded buckshot into my ordinary Ithaca Model 37. I wasn’t one of the enviable hunters who could afford the special version dubbed “The Deerslayer”.

Other than that I’ve done most of my hunting in Pennsylvania, traditionally thought of as a rifle state although a few special regulation areas restrict firearm hunters to shotguns. Some of the Midwestern states that are famous for gigantic bucks mandate shotguns only – Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, and Iowa among them.

In heavily populated eastern states – New Jersey, Delaware, Virginia, Maryland – regulations prohibit rifles. The idea is that shotguns are safer. I’m not about to argue the point, but I will observe that areas where hunters are limited to shotguns almost always produce bigger bucks. Who doesn’t envy the monsters from Ohio, Illinois and Iowa?

Old-Ithaca-Shotguns- 183x640

Smoothbores like these, a double barrel and a pump both made by Ithaca, have downed lots of deer in days gone by. Both these guns have “aged out” of the deer woods.

Without a doubt they get big for more than one reason, but the fact of the matter is that where rifles are prohibited, deer live to older ages. That means more of them become mature enough to sport big racks.

All of that is to say that if you’re an antler-addicted firearms hunter, you’re likely to have opportunity to hunt with a shotgun. What are your options?

Traditional Smoothbores

My success with smoothbores, as mentioned, was less than stellar. I was the guest of someone in a hunting club, and I was the one who got the shot when the doe unexpectedly raced by in heavy cover ahead of the dogs. I missed. I would have been ready for the second shot if my gun hadn’t jammed. The rimmed shell was a tad too large, and resisted feeding smoothly from the tube magazine on my pump shotgun.

As far back as the depression years and earlier (long before my time), many a hunter put whitetails down for dirt naps using 12 gauge punkin balls. Yes, shots were either short range affairs or depended on a measure of luck, because smoothbores plus punkin balls never added up to bragging rights in the accuracy department.

Lots of people will vouch for traditional shotguns, but in their heyday most hunters hunted for groceries, and a dedicated shotgun was economically out of the question. Most of those old-timers have “aged out” – gone to their happy hunting grounds, and their old punkin ball launchers have been retired.

Rifled Choke Tubes

The second choice is a smoothbore shotgun that takes choke tubes. For deer, just screw in a rifled choke tube. These often do an outstanding job.

2009-NY-Buck- 480x640

The author’s Remington 870 turkey gun with a rifled choke tube was responsible for a good 8-point in New York.

Virtually all manufacturers of 12-gauge shotguns offer models that use screw-in chokes. My Remington 870 turkey gun with a rifled choke tube was just the right medicine for a good New York 8-point a few years ago. In that case, the pill it delivered was a Lightfield 2¾” Hybred Lite slug. These proved very accurate in my gun.

I heard the buck grunting on the hillside below me on opening morning in the dark. Rustling leaves told me a chase was on and a doe was in the mix. As it got light, I offered a few bleats on my Woods Wise grunt tube, and the doe came as if Wonder Woman was going to rescue her from the bad guy.

If a smoothbore isn’t for you, and you want something a little more than a rifled choke tube will give you, stay tuned. Part 2 will cover shotguns with fully-rifled barrels.

***

About Steve Sorensen

steve-sorensen-head-shotAward-winning outdoor writer and speaker Steve Sorensen loves the Havalon knife, and has been a fan of knives since he begged his dad for a hunting knife when he was six years old. His articles have been published in Deer & Deer Hunting, Sports Afield, and many other top magazines across the USA. Invite Steve to speak at your next sportsman’s event, and follow his writing on his website, www.EverydayHunter.com.

For more atricles by Steve Sorensen, click here.
And for the best deer skinning knife, click here

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Bass Fishing: Do You Make These 7 Mistakes? – Part 2

By Darl Black

 

Moderately-priced quality fishing equipment should fill your basic needs.

Dull hooks, mismatched equipment, and worn-out line might be obvious mistakes. You might be less likely to think about the following four mistakes, but they’re not less likely to be made.

4. “Cross His Eyes” Hook Sets
The old adage of “cross their eyes” with a powerful hookset is responsible for many missed bass. Utilizing a flipping jig on heavy line for thick cover is one instance where a power-set may be the best hookset. But fishing relatively open water with lighter line and smaller hooks requires an appropriate reduction in force; attempting to “cross their eyes” may snap the line.

Furthermore, certain presentations like drop-shotting or constant-motion baits like crankbaits are best served with a slow sweep rather than a snap-set. Adjust your hookset to the situation and you’ll connect with more bass.

lead-fish-head-first-into-net

Many bass are lost at side of boat due to improper netting procedure. Never chase a fish with the net or jab at it; lead the fish into the
net head first.

5. Improper Use
of A Landing Net

I have witnessed numerous bass lost beside the boat because of poor netting technique. First, for reasons of safety, I elect to net any bass with multi-hook bait hanging from its mouth. It’s a matter of respecting those trebles – it only takes one head shake from a bass or slip of the hand as you attempt to grab it from the water to ruin your day.

I use a rubber mesh landing net which eliminates hook entanglement as well as reduces the chance of injury to fish which may occur when using abrasive knotted nylon bag nets. Granted, rubber mesh nets are slow-moving in the water, but that does not matter because the first two rules of netting are: (1) don’t chase the bass with a net; (2) don’t jab and swoop.

Proper netting involves first gaining control of the bass on the line beside the boat. Have your boat partner position the landing net at a 45-degree angle with about three-quarters of the bag below the surface. Lead the bass into the net, head first, and then your partner lifts the net.

6. Being Oblivious To Your Surroundings
Failure to recognize what is going on around you can cost you fish. Often, it’s noticing the little things which will steer you to active feeding fish. Everyone’s head turns when they hear a big splash, imagining it’s a bass jumping; but the odds favor a carp breaking the surface.

On the other hand, a minnow skipping on the surface with a barely noticeable wake following is an indication of a predator – cast several feet in front of the wake. Watch for gulls hovering and diving into the water; this is a sign baitfish have been forced to the surface – perhaps by a wolfpack of bass.

Also, tune in to minor weather changes, such a pause in wind from one direction with the breeze shifting to a new direction. If bass have been closed mouth up to this point, a wind shift is not the time to quit. Rather it may be time to head to one of your prime bass-holding locations because the change could trigger bass into feeding.

properly-match-lure-weight-to-tackle

Small, lightweight lures can be very effective, but they must be fished on lighter tackle. You can’t fish a 4″ Slider Worm on the same outfit you fish a
3/4-ounce Carolina rig.

7.  Letting Technology Control You
Technology has overrun the simple sport of fishing with products ranging from high-definition imaging sonar scans and underwater cameras to electronic feeding simulators installed on high-speed bass boats, along with this or that piece of electronics for a tech-crazed society. Granted, these items may be useful products, but they are not required to catch bass. As a kayak-fishing buddy reminds me constantly, “You can’t catch a bass going 50 mph down the lake.”

I recommend obtaining moderately-priced quality fishing equipment to fill your basic needs, thereby enabling you to fish and have a great time without incurring a huge debt. Your biggest asset to successful angling rests on top of your shoulders – use it. Don’t let machines be the sole decision makers as to where and when you cast a lure. Instead, rely more on your gut and less on the gizmos.

If you’re wondering what you can do differently, I hope you’ve found some answers. I can tell you from experience, when you avoid these seven mistakes you’ll put more bass in your boat.

***

About Darl Black

darl-black-image
A lifelong freshwater angler and veteran writer/photographer, Darl tackles a wide variety of fishing related stories for print publications and websites. Of all fishing, angling for smallmouth bass is his favorite pastime. He may be reached for assignment at darlblack@windstream.net.





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Bass Fishing: Do You Make These 7 Mistakes? – Part 1

By Darl Black

 

If you’re making these mistakes, you’re depending
on luck to fill your livewell.

I’ve been wetting lines since I was old enough to hold a fishin’ pole. At about age seven I caught my first big bass. While fishing for bluegills with a dried-up piece of nightcrawler on a rusty hook tied to kinky monofilament line on a clunky push-button reel taped to a beat-up spinning rod, a 20-inch largemouth swam by and pulled my bobber under. I jerked on the rod, the reel jammed, and I grabbed the line to pull the bass onto the bank. I can’t imagine being so lucky today if I attempted to repeat those same circumstances. Nothing but the fortunes of a young boy allowed that fish to be landed.

With over 50 years of hands-on angling under my belt, I’ve likely made every possible mistake – but learned to be a better bass angler in the process. That’s why I can say with confidence that reducing errors will boost your catch-rate substantially. Here’s how to avoid seven of the most common pitfalls in bass angling.

sharpen-hooks

Greatly reduce the number of missed strikes and lost fish by being sure your hooks are sharp.

1. Dull Hooks
Dull or bent hook points may be the angler’s number one equipment error. Certain hook manufactures love the pitch that their trebles and soft plastic rigging hooks don’t need sharpening. True, some of the latest high-tech hooks don’t need sharpened right from the package – but they cost more. Rather than pay dearly for those top end hooks, you may decide to settle for quality standard wire hooks – which definitely require sharpening.

Either way, even the sharpest point becomes dull or bent after scraping rocks, hanging snags and catching fish. Inspect hook points frequently (including new ones right from the package) and either sharpen or replace any that seem questionable.

Here’s how to test sharpness. I first check hook points visually. If its sharpness is in doubt, then lightly press it against the side of a finger. If the point doesn’t prick or stick to the skin, it isn’t sharp enough. Using a quality fine-tooth hook file, evenly stroke the edges on cutting point hooks. Or, use a grooved sharpening stone to bring a needle point hook to full sharpness.

use-lures-suited-to-rod-and-line

Be sure to use a properly balanced rod action/power and pound-test line for a particular lure. You don’t need a 10 rod arsenal as this bass angler carries, but mismatching rod, line and lure will result in missed bass. Use lures suited to your rod
and line combination.

2. Mismatched
Lure-Line-Reel-Rod
Since lures for bass fishing range from as small as 1/16-ounce to more than 1 ounce, one of the most common equipment mistakes is mismatched lure and rod combinations. Rods are designed to be used with specific range of pound-test lines and lure weights, with the information imprinted on the blank. Varying too far beyond these parameters can impede efficient casting or even hook-setting ability.

 

For example, attempting to fish a lightweight balsa minnow for creek smallmouth with a medium-heavy action casting rod spooled with 20-pound test will yield very short casts and possibly a line backlash on the reel.

On the other hand, if an angler ties a 3/4-ounce flipping jig with stout hook on a light-action spinning rod with 8-pound test (a balanced combo for that lightweight balsa), the result will be ineffective hooksets or perhaps a broken line.

line-spilling-off-spool-leads-to-tangles-loops

Don’t fill your spinning reel spool to the brink with line. Doing so is an invitation to line spilling off the spool leading to tangles
and loops.

3. Kinky,
Improperly Spooled Line
It’s an easy mistake to make when spooling on line on a spinning reel. You fill the spool with line right up to the very edge, thinking it will allow you to cast farther. Instead, the too-full spool creates problems with line looping and tangling. To avoid this, keep the line between 1/8 and 1/4 inch below the spool lip.

leave-eighth-to-quarter-inch-on-spool

A properly filled spool should have at least 1/8″ clearance. When spooling fluorocarbon, it’s best to leave 1/4″ clearance on spool lip.

 

 

Monofilament and fluorocarbon will gradually deteriorate when exposed to sun over time, so replace it annually. Also, line should be replaced anytime it shows signs of taking on a “set” or becomes severely twisted due to certain lure presentations. Superlines (braid & gel spun lines) have a longer life on the spool than mono or fluorocarbon, but will eventually require replacement, too.


That’s enough to think about for now. Come back soon to find out
if you’re making four more common mistakes.

***
About Darl Black

darl-black-image
A lifelong freshwater angler and veteran writer/photographer, Darl tackles a wide variety of fishing related stories for print publications and websites. Of all fishing, angling for smallmouth bass is his favorite pastime. He may be reached for assignment at darlblack@windstream.net.




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Trout Fishing: Seven Mistakes to Avoid

By Mike Bleech

 

There is a line of thinking that tells anglers to be patient, to wait for the fish to start hitting. That’s a load of baloney.

Countless articles have told you the things you should do while fishing for trout. Now look at this from another perspective. Here are seven things you should not do while fishing for trout.

1.  Don’t wear bright, colorful clothing. Anything that stands out just serves to make you more visible to the trout. Especially avoid red, orange, yellow, purple, blue and any fluorescent colors.

avoid-bright-colors-blend-in

Don’t wear bright colors along a trout stream.
Especially avoid loud colored hats.

Most important, never, ever wear those bright colors on your head or upper torso. Those are the parts of your body that trout can see first. Forget about looking good. Never try to stand out. Quite the opposite, blend in with your surroundings just like a bowhunter might do.

2.  Don’t use over-size hooks. Never use hooks that can’t be at least partially hidden by the bait. Fine wire hooks usually are just right for trout fishing. Overly large hooks will kill your bait. Even if you are not using live bait, big hooks will tear any bait apart.

3.  Don’t forget your hook hone. Bring it, or a file, or whatever you prefer for sharpening hooks. During fishing seminars I usually begin by guaranteeing that I can double the number of fish everyone will catch. Then I explain how to sharpen hooks. For small hooks that are usually used for trout fishing, make the point needle sharp. Larger hooks may need knife-like edges.

mike-used-stick-bait-for-brown-trout

Mike used a stick bait that dives a little deeper than most to tempt this nice brown trout.

4.  Don’t stand in one place if you are fishing in a lake, unless you are catching fish with a good deal of regularity. Trout move. Trout tend to be scattered. Only rarely do trout hold in one place for long periods of time. Even if something is holding trout in a specific location, all the trout in a lake will not be there, and soon either all of the trout in that location will be caught, or more likely, at some point the trout that remain will stop hitting for one reason or another.

Of course you stay in one position as long as trout are hitting there. Move along after a few unproductive casts.

5.  Don’t focus only on likely looking spots. If your tactic is casting artificial lures, fan-cast. This means casting one direction, say to the left, then cast farther to the right in small increments. Do this until you have covered all of the water you can reach from that position. Then move along the shoreline to another position that is just far enough so that you are casting to fresh water, and repeat the process.

6.  Don’t be patient. Patience wastes time. There is a line of thinking that tells anglers to be patient, to wait for the fish to start hitting. That’s a load of baloney, unless you know with absolute certainty that there are trout within casting distance, and even then only if you are very limited in how far you can move, or if you are afraid of losing a good position to other anglers.

jeri-bleech-used-red-worms-for-brown-trout

A flopping brown trout rewarded Jeri Bleech for carrying red worms along the trout stream.

7.  Don’t travel light. No extra weight. No extra bulk. Right? All you really need is your favorite spinner. Just the essentials.  Right? No. That could not be more wrong.

Trout are famous for being finicky. One of the surest ways to enjoy consistent success is to carry a well-stocked fishing vest. In fact, the more you can carry, the better.

In the artificial lure department, carry spoons, spinners and small stick baits. You should have a variety of colors of each type. Have some that run at different depths. This is most important if you fish lakes. Carry as many baits as you can manage. You should have at least three different types of salmon eggs, a few types of artificial baits like Powerbait, which is available in several colors. A couple kinds of grubs and some red worms will make you a complete angler, almost. To round it out, carry either live or salted minnows.

So really, the things you should not do are merely the flip side of what you should do – and a perspective that will help you to remember better.

***

About Mike Bleech:

mike-bleech-head-shotMike Bleech has been a full-time freelance writer/photographer since 1980 with more than 5,000 articles published in more than 100 publications. He is the outdoors columnist for the Erie Times-News and the Warren Times Observer. His home waters for trout fishing are hundreds of miles of wild and stocked streams on the Allegheny National Forest.

For more articles by Mike Bleech, click here.
And for the best fillet knife, click here

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