How to Find and Hunt Funnels

By John Trout, Jr.

5 Valuable tips on how to to decipher travel corridors!

Over the years, I’ve hunted both big woods and agricultural areas. Without a doubt, I’ve found it easier to pattern bucks and hunt them effectively in the agricultural regions where “natural travel zones” are found. Most people call them “funnels”.

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Bucks travel funnels if they link to food sources and bedding areas, but even better, they know the funnel could put them on the trail of a hot doe. (Photo by John & Vikki Trout)

Before going on, I should say that hunting funnels is effective only if you have a sound understanding of which ones provide the best opportunity. Some funnels are used very little. Others seem fool-proof if the right ingredients exist.

1 – Why Funnels Work

It’s no big secret that funnels work, but why are deer attracted to funnels? Funnels provide suitable habitat while allowing deer the opportunity to get from Point A to Point B without being exposed. Additionally, they’re often the easiest and shortest route between food sources and bedding areas.

Funnels concentrate deer activity, so traveling a funnel allows a deer to see “who” has passed through. During the rut, bucks use these travel corridors to find does. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve seen bucks travel funnels with nose deliberately to the ground. But funnels must serve a purpose. You can find lots of funnels, and some will always attract a few deer, but others have what it takes to produce hot action consistently.

2 – Keystone Funnels

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Although a buck could travel a funnel from one end to the other, many leave an open field just after dawn to enter the secluded travel corridor. (Photo by John & Vikki Trout)

A funnel that provides a solid foundation usually offers the best hunting opportunities. The foundation is typically some form of cover. There’s more to the story than finding a funnel that is grown up with cover, but that’s a start.

Cover could consist of waist-high weeds to towering trees. One funnel that has proven best for me consists of only a few shoulder-tall autumn olive shrubs. These bushes provide concealment and consistently attract deer. The thicker the better. Even if shooting is limited, set up in dense funnels, because they’re more attractive to bucks.

Fencelines, creeks and even small drainage ditches often provide enough cover to produce a funnel with a strong foundation. A funnel does not have to be extremely long or wide to attract whitetails. More about that in a moment.

3 – Mapping Your Area

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Rubs are commonly found in productive funnels, particularly
near one or both ends of the funnel
where it connects to woods or
dense vegetation.
(Photo by John & Vikki Trout)

The Internet provides satellite maps for easy viewing, not to mention topographic and aerial maps you may have on hand that could help locate productive funnels.

I suggest you carry maps with you, or make it a point to anchor your findings in your mind for later reference. Maps are a tool for doing your homework, but they won’t do your homework for you.

4 – The Ground Floor

Regardless of what funnels you discover before heading for your stomping grounds, nothing beats a personal inspection. Although you could spook deer, you will learn the most walking the land.

Such was the case a few years ago when I found a few rows of corn that were left standing after the rest of the field was harvested. The tall cornstalks became a hot travel route almost overnight.

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Scouting for a productive funnel is not as risky as walking thick
brush and woods. Funnels also
provide easy access for you to
reach your stand.
(Photo by John & Vikki Trout)

Although I previously mentioned the importance of cover, funnels must link to a deer’s needs. I’ve seen some funnels that connected to a bedding area on one end, but end up falling apart 100 yards before getting to a crop field. Deer often follow these limited funnels to get to a food source, but they are not as effective as those that link to brush and/or woods at both ends.

Funnels often pass through open areas, providing easy access for scouting and hunting. It’s best to scout the funnel from one end to the other to look for trails, avoiding the densest cover to keep from leaving scent. Also, look for rub lines and scrapes if the rut is near. Bucks love to leave their sign in funnels consistently used by does. Moreover, they love leaving their marks at each end of the funnel where it links to woods and thickets.

5 – The Ambush

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Narrow funnels could offer more shooting opportunity than wide ones. Even if a trail exists near the edge, it might be best to set up closer to the middle of the funnel where you can accurately shoot from edge-to-edge.
(Photo by John & Vikki Trout)

Setting up a stand in the right location along a funnel is often difficult. More often than not, I choose a site at one end or the other not far from where the funnel links to a woods or thicket.

It doesn’t take a funnel several hundred yards long to work. In fact, the shorter the funnel, the less chance of a buck finding a reason to leave the funnel before he gets to you. As for width of the funnel, narrower is better when archery hunting. There’s nothing better than being able to shoot across the funnel from one edge to the other. Hunting with a firearm will allow you to cover a wider funnel more effectively, but even then some funnels are so thick with cover that you are better off setting up in the middle.

One last thing should be mentioned about funnels. Some are reliable season-after-season. When you find one that is, you don’t have to look for another.



***

About John Trout, Jr

john-trout-jr-236x235Southern Indiana hunter John Trout, Jr. is a full-time freelance writer and photographer specializing in whitetail deer, wild turkey and black bear. He has authored eight books and his work has appeared in nearly every publication of North America. You can visit his website at www.troutswildoutdoors.com.



Click here for more how-to’s and tips on deer hunting,
and for the best deer skinning knife, click here. 

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Ambushing Whitetails – 4 Lethal Strategies

By John Trout, Jr.

Trophy whitetails are seldom forgiving!

Mature bucks have a knack for learning from their mistakes. Worse, they have a great ability to learn from our mistakes. That’s why it’s important for us to do it right the first time and select the best possible location to ambush a trophy whitetail.

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The best time to pattern a buck is usually before the rut begins. It’s also the most risky time to find and set up an ambush site.
(Photo by John & Vikki Trout)

Except during the rut, bucks are creatures of habit. The pre- and post-rut are the most dangerous times for hunters to pattern and ambush an educated buck in his home range. The smart hunter plans a comprehensive ambush strategy.

#1 Pre-Rut Hotspots – Before the rut, bucks often travel the same routes. Notice I didn’t suggest they travel the same trail. Most bucks in their home ranges use several travel zones before the breeding begins. The size of that range could vary. Research indicates that a buck’s home territory could range from one-half to one mile or more.

Early-autumn food sources certainly provide ambush opportunities, but only if you keep up with the changes in crop fields and mast-producing woodlands to take advantage of trophy bucks that do not reach “open arenas” in daylight hours.

Fortunately, pre-rut rub lines often indicate those travel areas that bucks frequently use. We also know that rub lines in dense locations offer the best opportunities, simply because it’s more likely for a mature whitetail to be there after dawn and before dusk.

Setting up close to secluded food sources could also pay off. Bucks are far more likely to be there in daylight hours, as opposed to open fields.

Locating pre-rut hotspots without deer knowing you’re there isn’t easy, but it helps to search for these ideal locations just before rain arrives. Rain will wash away the scent you leave behind. Also, windy days reduce the disturbance you make, so that’s another good time to scout for ambush sites.

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When breeding begins, set up near the hottest trails. Those that attract does and are located near secluded food sources could offer
the best opportunity. (Photo by John & Vikki Trout)

#2 Hot-Rut Trails – I’ve always believed you can make lots of mistakes during the rut and still tag a super buck. In fact, you could say that once the breeding begins, the bucks are the ones that make the mistakes.

Nevertheless, you must hunt the best locations as the rut progresses. Forget about the rubs you once found and concentrate most on the heavily-used trails. You must find the does to ambush a buck.

Scrapes are often found along well-used travel routes. Bucks want to leave their mark where does frequent. Which scrapes offer the best ambush possibilities have been debated among hunters for years. We do know that sporadic scrapes, those that appear at random, seldom provide opportunity. However, a scrape line that seems to follow a distinct trail typically offers an excellent ambush location. Better yet, the hottest trails during the rut are often those that lead to hidden foods, such as oaks that produce acorns, persimmons, and others.

Natural travel routes, such as fencelines and creeks, are like magnets to bucks during the rut. Bucks travel them frequently hoping to pick up the scent of a hot doe that passed through earlier.

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Rely on several stand sites to prevent being detected. It often takes only one mistake to spoil an opportunity. (Photo by John & Vikki Trout)

#3 In-and-Out – Have a plan for approaching and departing every feasible stand site. If you are detected by deer, or by the big buck you are hunting, a hot ambush site could quickly turn cold.

When hunting a morning, approach your stand through the area least likely to harbor deer. Avoid food sources along fields and find the best route to use through woods or other dense areas where you have the best chance of remaining undetected. When you leave after your morning hunt, you can walk the open areas without issue.

In the afternoon, reverse the strategy. Stick to the most open areas and avoid dense areas where deer could be bedded as you approach. When you leave the stand at dusk, avoid traveling agricultural fields or food plots that deer are approaching. I also would suggest that if deer are present in the open areas at quitting time, stick around until dark-thirty. Many times, I’ve spent 30 minutes or more on stand after dark to make certain I would go unnoticed when I left.

#4 Keep ’em Guessing – Lastly, and perhaps the best tip of all, is never to rely on a single ambush location. Even if you do not have a big chunk of land, you should still have several sites to consider each time you hunt.

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Grown-up fencelines often become hot during the rut. Bucks frequently travel these corridors in hopes of picking up an estrous doe. (Photo by John & Vikki Trout)

First, consider that you must hunt where the wind is always favorable. Relying on only one ambush site makes that impossible.

Second, consider that each time you walk to and from your stand, you are certain to create some disturbance, as well as leave scent behind.

Finally, most sites will be at their best the first, second, or third time you hunt them. Hunting the same location consistently is one sure way to let a big buck know where you have been – and where you will soon be. It makes sense to keep the bucks guessing.

***

About John Trout, Jr

john-trout-jr-236x235Southern Indiana hunter John Trout, Jr. is a full-time freelance writer and photographer specializing in whitetail deer, wild turkey and black bear. He has authored eight books and his work has appeared in nearly every publication of North America. You can visit his website at www.troutswildoutdoors.com.




For more tips on deer hunting, click here.

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Stand Placement: Secrets From the Legendary Barry Wensel

As the season progresses, change your stand sites to give yourself ….A Front Row Seat

A buck doesn’t hit true trophy potential until full maturity. Notice I said “full” maturity. I’m of the opinion a buck isn’t fully mature until he’s at least 5 ½ years old – and that means he is as smart at avoiding stands as you are at hanging them.

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Well-planned stand placement played a key role in bringing this buck to Barry Wensel – his biggest 8-point ever.

In five and a half years of survival, a buck has pretty much learned all the ropes. He’s learned to adapt to situations and conditions within his world or he wouldn’t still be there. Woods-wise knowledge coupled with his natural senses make him a worthy challenge. I’ve always been a believer when hunting mature bucks you are better off letting them come to you. That dictates setting up a situation and letting it unfold, and it usually means proper treestand placement.

I choose my treestand placements according to several factors. I consider time of the year; food sources; the rut; post-rut; AM versus PM versus all day; entrance/exit; hunting pressure; and most importantly, consistent wind direction.

Let’s touch on those variables as the season progresses –

September and October:

Hunt their food sources. Set up between their bedding and feeding areas, but take the bigger picture into account: the overhead tree canopy, foliage densities, light intensities, food preferences, etc. Hunt mast crop in preferred locations discovered through scouting.

For example, think about what might happen along a dry creek bed lined with mature oaks. It may create a natural feed trough if the acorns roll downhill into the dry creek bed.

Late October and All of November:

Shift to hunting the terrain and structure to take advantage of rut movement. Prepare yourself mentally with the fact big mature bucks WILL be on the move. Terrain structures will dictate that movement year after year, and you can capitalize on them for decades. Hunting pinch points within security cover will eventually produce.

You may not see as many deer as you do when hunting food sources, but have the mindset that the longer you cover these areas under ideal conditions, it’s just a matter of time until your opportunity comes. Be aware the foliage is dropping and the canopy is opening up. Stand locations that were perfect in early season might be too open now, so adjust accordingly.

Late November through January:

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Wensel’s first encounter with this brute was in a dry creek bed loaded with acorns. Two years later Barry harvested the buck, a 9½ year old with a rack scoring over 190″.

Return to hunting trails to and from the food sources or at the food itself as the rut winds down. This is when nutrition again becomes vital as bucks rebuild from the rut. Take into consideration the foliage has now opened up to a degree, that you will be much more visible in the hardwoods. Consider placing stands in softwoods such as cedars, junipers and pines knowing they won’t shed their needles and will afford much better cover for the treestand hunter.


My General Stand Placement Strategies:

I don’t worry about stand elevation so much. I’d much rather be elevated only ten feet in a thick softwood tree than twenty feet up in a limbless hardwood that looks like a telephone pole. I’ve killed giant bucks with my bow when my feet were only eight feet above ground level.

I have morning stands, evening stands and all-day stands. I also have stands set up for various wind directions. I am especially conscious of my entrance to and exit from my stands. I try to vary my approach so as not to be patterned myself, but always approach according to the day’s wind direction.

I force myself to walk in a long way under the cover of darkness so as not to educate the deer to my presence with the noise of any kind of vehicle. When it’s dark a deer thinks he’s invisible and you can get away with a lot more visually than when it’s light out. But ALWAYS be aware of the wind direction.

No matter what time of year you are setting up for, the number one factor is wind direction. Do not hunt a stand if the wind isn’t right for it. You’ll just educate all the deer in your area and make it that much harder to hunt them. You can and will alter their patterns for weeks or even the entire season. When that happens, you’ve wasted all your scouting efforts.

I personally like to have a lot of stands pre-hung before the season in order to capitalize on a sneaky approach. But if a hunter doesn’t have many stands available he can at least create his stand sites prior to the season. Have the area all trimmed out and hang your stand when you’re ready to hunt.

Adjust to what’s happening in the woods and with a little luck, you’ll always have a great front row seat.

***

About Barry Wensel

Barry-Wensel-Head-2-107x160Barry Wensel is one of the nation’s top hunters using traditional archery equipment, and the author of The Crooked Hat Chronicles, tales of his adventures and misadventures (available at www.brothersofthebow.com.) If you ask him why he wears his hat crooked, you’ll get his sense of humor. He says, “So the animals I’m shooting don’t think I’m looking at them.” It works – in 2011, while wearing his hat crooked, Barry took his oldest buck ever, an incredible 9½ year old.

For more articles and tips on deer hunting, click here.
And click here for the best deer skinning knife.

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Bowhunting: 10 Reason’s You’ll Never Arrow An Elk, Part 2

by Bob Robb

Mistakes made when hunting elk fall into
two categories – skills, and attitudes. 

To avoid the second five mistakes, think about what attitudes need adjusting.

Just who do you think you are? It matters – and can mean the difference between success and failure on an elk hunt.

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Here’s the result of hunting elk with the best in both skills
and attitude. (Photo by Bob Robb)

1. You Think You’re Plenty Tough: A guide I hunted with two years ago said it all. “A lot of the clients can only hike around for a day or two, then they’re shot,” he said. “So when we get a bull bugling, I try and assess whether or not they can physically go get that elk without scaring him off. A lot of the time that answer is ‘nope,’ so we don’t even try. Or I won’t take them into a place where I know they can’t handle it. Or when the wind is swirling, if they can’t move quickly so we can keep it right, we won’t try it.” To give yourself the best possible chance, start getting in shape months before your hunt. Being in better shape than you think you need to be will pay big dividends.

2. You Think You’re Robin Hood: When the heavens smile and present a shot opportunity, you have to take advantage of it. And that usually isn’t a broadside bull standing in the middle of a meadow at close range waiting for you to get it together. The bulls are often moving through the thick stuff and you may have only a few precious seconds to make it happen. Bowhunters dream of calling a big bull to within spitting distance, where it turns broadside and there is no brush in the way. That rarely happens. Often the elk is out there 40 or 50 yards with just a small shot window through thick brush and tree limbs, often at a steep downhill angle, and you don’t have time to use the rangefinder. Stay within your own personal limitations, but prior to the season spend a lot of time pushing those limits to become a better shot at distance. You’ll never regret it.

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It’s getting dark, and he’s walking away. Did you wait too long to make your move? (Photo by Steve Sorensen)

3. You Can’t Take Enough Time: A quick elk hunt doesn’t exist. Elk live in big country, and it can take days just to find a bull to hunt. Once you find a bull, the things that can go wrong are endless. If you have to travel any distance to hunt elk, taking less than a full week makes no sense. Ten days is better, and if you can pull it off, allowing two weeks is primo. Bottom line: when your goal is a mature bull elk, factor in plenty of time.

4. You’re Afraid to Spook Them: Too many people hunt elk too passively. That is, when they finally locate a good bull, they spend too much time trying to figure out what to do, then watch as the bull walks off. The best way to get it done is find a bull, assess the situation – wind direction and speed, terrain, the number of other elk (and deer) in the immediate area, the elk’s attitude, their speed and direction of travel – and when you see a window of opportunity, go for it! When I locate a bull, I try and close the gap as quickly as possible, wait for an opening, then aggressively make my move while continuing to monitor the external variables, adjusting accordingly. Sure, I’ve blown it. But I’ve blown it more often by not making a move.

5. You’re A Trophy Hunter: Watch the videos and TV shows and read the hunting magazines, and you’ll think that a bull that’s not a huge 5×5 or big 6×6 is a dink, not worthy of a serious elk hunter’s broadhead. Horse poop! In the real world of elk hunting, there’s no such thing as a bad bull elk. Heck, even a cow elk can be tough to tag at times. If you’re a public land hunter and want to hold out for a bull with lots of bone on his head, that’s great – just be prepared to eat some tag soup.

If you never arrow an elk, there’s a good chance these ten reasons, or some combination of them, will play a major role in failure. But now that you know them, I’m betting on you.

 ***

About Bob Robb

bob-robb-head-shotFor over two decades, Bob’s articles and photographs have appeared in most major outdoor magazines. Currently he is editor of Whitetail Journal and Predator Xtreme magazines. Bob was founding editor of Petersen’s Bowhunting magazines, and the author of many books, including The Field & Stream Bowhunting Handbook, and The Ultimate Guide to Elk Hunting.  Bob sees the value of super-sharp, lightweight Havalon knives.

For more articles by Bob Robb, click here.
And for the best elk skinning knife, click here. 

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Bowhunting: 10 Reason’s You’ll Never Arrow An Elk, Part 1

by Bob Robb

Mistakes made when hunting elk fall into
two categories – skills, and attitudes.

To avoid the first five mistakes, you need to improve your skills.

bull elk image-295x194No critter I have bowhunted has been more humbling than hunting wilderness elk on my own. I am not talking about places where elk are thick and killing one is more a matter of being a competent archer than a skilled woodsman – high-dollar private ranch hunts in places like New Mexico, for example, or one of the many game ranches that are springing up like weeds these days. I’m talking about elk that live wild and free across the mountains and badlands, where steep terrain and high elevation strain even a young man’s body, the winds are always squirrely, and the brush thick as the summer air over L.A.

I mean, look at the statistics. Even on a guided hunt with an honest outfit staffed with skilled guides, success rates on wilderness fair chase elk hunts are rarely more than 40 percent on any bull. State statistics show that archery elk hunters rarely punch 20 percent of their tags. Despite what you read in the magazines and see on hunting videos and TV shows, taking a mature bull on a fair chase do-it-yourself elk hunt is about as easy as finding a truthful politician in an election year.

Most articles you read on elk hunting tell you how to get a shot. That’s great. Here, however, are the reasons why most people will never arrow an elk.

1. You Don’t Have A Plan: The best way to hunt elk is to begin with a game plan built around basic hunting strategy designed around the terrain, season, current weather conditions, and prevalent hunting pressure, then be ready to adapt to the activity patterns of the elk themselves. Staying flexible is critical – but the key is to do your homework and research the area months in advance. You won’t succeed if you just wander around the woods willy-nilly, hoping to find some elk.

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Don’t let a shot from an awkward position make you forget about what the wind is doing. (Photo by Bob Robb)

2. You’re Not A Wind-Doping Fanatic: You can take this to the bank – elk have incredible noses, and the smell of humans will send them into a panic, every time. When the wind is wrong, do whatever it takes to make it right before moving closer. In mountain country, the wind is almost always swirling or blowing crossways, not perfectly from the elk to you. Heck, if you waited for a perfect wind, you’d never move closer! You must be constantly monitoring the wind, making your move when it lets you and backing the heck out of there when it is wrong.

3. Ants in Your Pants: Elk have incredible eyesight. When you are calling a bull in, they will know the exact tree or bush you’ve just called from, and they’ll be looking for you. Sometimes they come in slow, but if you get impatient and move you can be sure the bull is right there and will see you. When he does, it’s adios, amigo. That’s why having two hunters working together, one calling and the other set up out front 50 yards or so, is so deadly. The bull comes in looking for the caller, hangs up 50-100 yards away when he can’t find that other elk, and whack!

4. You Call Just Fine: If you are going to call elk, you have to become the very best bugler and cow caller you can be, proficient with as many types of calls as you can. The time to learn is before your hunt, not when you get to camp. Most callers need to improve. Most likely, you’re one of them.

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Shooting ability is another skill that needs constant polishing. (Photo by Bob Robb)

5. You Call Too Much: Many experienced bowhunters have learned that calling at mature bulls is a great way to ruin everything. Instead, they call rarely, if at all. Often the very best technique of all is to locate the elk, get in front of the herd as it moves to and from bedding areas and food sources, and set up a silent ambush, or set a tree stand over a wallow or water hole.

If elk are on your agenda, get busy and improve your skills – planning, reading the wind, patience, calling and more. But that’s not all – next time we’ll have a friendly talk about your attitude.

***

About Bob Robb

bob-robb-head-shotFor over two decades, Bob’s articles and photographs have appeared in most major outdoor magazines. Currently he is editor of Whitetail Journal and Predator Xtreme magazines. Bob was founding editor of Petersen’s Bowhunting magazines, and the author of many books, including The Field & Stream Bowhunting Handbook, and The Ultimate Guide to Elk Hunting. Bob sees the value of super-sharp, lightweight Havalon knives.

 
 

For more articles by Bob Robb, click here.
And click here for the best elk skinning knife.

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