Hunting From a Ground Blind:
5 Common Mistakes Hunters Make

By Tracy Breen

Why Tracy Breen is an expert on hunting from
ground blinds, and how you can be too.

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A well concealed blind is the easiest way to outsmart the eyes of a whitetail. Branches, large trees, standing corn or tall weeds can be used to break up the outline of a pop-up blind.

If you’re an avid deer hunter, you’ve probably noticed that more treestand companies are offering pop-up ground blinds. Many companies are jumping on the ground blind band wagon because the average deer hunter is aging. More treestand hunters are becoming ground blind hunters because they’re safer and more comfortable to hunt from than treestands.

I have lots of experience with ground blinds because I have cerebral palsy, and although I can hunt out of treestands, I prefer hunting deer from the ground. I have been doing this for over a decade, and have made almost every mistake a ground blind hunter can make. Learning from them has enabled me to take many deer from the ground. Below are some of the most common mistakes I’ve made and see many other hunters making – and my advice on how you can avoid them.

MISTAKE 1: Hunting From A Pop-Up Blind Right After You Put It Up

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One advantage of hunting from a pop-up blind is you can easily video record your own hunts. This camera arm made by Pine Ridge Archery was designed specifically for
pop-up blinds.

Typically, whitetail deer have a very small home range. They often bed in the same areas daily, feed in the same areas and take the same path between the two. They know their home turf as well as my wife knows our living room. If I bring home a new couch, she’ll instantly know there is something new in the living room. When a pop-up blind is put up, deer often jump out of their skin and run away when they first see it. To fix the problem, the blind should be put in the woods a week or more ahead of time so the deer can adjust to it. If that’s not possible, put the blind in an open area where the deer can see it from a distance and approach it at their leisure. Adding a deer decoy can also help the deer overcome this problem.

MISTAKE 2: Not Brushing the Blind In

When I hunt from a pop-up blind, I brush it in as much as possible unless I am hunting an open field. Many hunters place a little bit of brush around a blind and call it good. I make the blind part of the landscape. I might put the blind up against a backdrop like the roots of a fallen tree, or I’ll set the blind up in a depression in the ground to help break up the outline of the blind. Then I put as many dead branches as possible on and around the blind to make the blind disappear. Many blinds have brush loops on them that can hold limbs or twigs. Check out Carnivore Hunting Products. They make a product called the Branch Clamp that will clamp branches to a blind. A brushed in blind will often be overlooked by deer and other game animals.

MISTAKE 3: Not Being Scent Free

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Wearing dark clothing is a must when hunting
from a pop-up blind.

A pop-up blind is made of fabric and like clothing, it will hold the smell of the environment it is kept in. If the blind is stored in a musty basement ten months a year, deer will probably smell the blind long before they see it. To eliminate this problem, air out the blind before taking it to the woods and spray it down with a scent killer spray. Don’t store the blind in a garage, pickup truck or in a closet next to the potpourri scent used to keep the house smelling fresh. If you leave a blind out for long periods, all odors will dissipate – that’s one advantage of leaving a blind in the woods.

MISTAKE 4: Assuming that Moving Around In the Blind Is OK

Hunters often think that moving around in a pop-up blind is acceptable because the blind will conceal movement. This is only partially true. Last year, I had a record class mule deer bust me when I tried to clip my release onto the bow string. Deer can see into a blind. To avoid this problem, I often wear black and shut most of the windows except for one or two. When a deer looks in, they see only black.

MISTAKE 5: Over-Reliance On a Blind

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Hunting from the ground can be exciting and rewarding.

Don’t assume the only way to hunt from the ground is from a blind. In the last five years, I’ve killed several bucks while hunting with a bow from the ground without a blind. I wear a 3D leafy suit and hide in the brush. For hunters who don’t own a blind, this is a great option. Think of it as a blind you wear.

Hunting from the ground can be exciting and rewarding. Is it more difficult than hunting from a treestand? Yes. However, deer are easier to outsmart than most people realize, and by avoiding the mistakes discussed above, killing a buck on the ground is very possible.

***

tracy-breen-336x420About Tracy Breen

Tracy is a full-time outdoor writer and consultant in the outdoor industry. He works with a variety of outdoor brands and television shows including Havalon Knives and the MeatEater. Learn more at www.tracybreen.com.

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How to Turn a Kid into a Duck Hunter

By Steve Weisman

10 ways to develop the love for duck hunting.

I have 55 years of awesome duck hunting memories, but none are more cherished than the times I have shared this passion with first my son Curt, who began going with me when he was only three years old, and now my grandson Hunter, who began hunting with his uncle Curt, his dad, and me when he was five years old. Yes, we start ’em young!

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The author’s grandson Hunter and his dad with the ducks taken during last year’s early duck season in Iowa.
(Photo by Steve Weisman)

As an old timer, I understand more and more the importance of taking the time to get youngsters hooked on duck hunting. It’s the key to keeping the legacy of waterfowling alive. However, it takes more than just talking about it. It’s about making youngsters a part of the entire process and making the hunting trip revolve around them. Here are ten ways to do that.

  1. Nothing beats enthusiasm. It’s important to share your excitement with them. One way to build enthusiasm is to watch duck hunting videos. Even at age 37 my son gets a kick out of watching them with my grandson. It’s fun to talk about the kinds of ducks, the way that they come in, why the hunters are doing what they are doing, and how neat it would be for us to be there.
  2. Include the youngster in the planning. Take him or her out looking at the sloughs and talk about which ones are better than others and why. Look for ducks on the water and make a game of duck identification.
  3. Getting the dog ready for the season. Teaming up with the youngster and working with the dog on commands, retrieving dummies, etc., is always a fun adventure. When my son and I worked together with our Labrador on retrieves, we would trade off spots. First, I would sit in the direction that the ducks would be coming in, while my son would be hidden from sight. He would throw a dummy, and I would make the retriever sit until the “fetch” command was given. Then we changed up, and my son would control the dog. From age 8, my son did more training with the dog than I did.
  4. Take advantage of Fall Youth Days. Many areas have Fall Youth Days that are both educational and fun. In mid-September my grandson spent a Sunday afternoon at the Izaak Walton League grounds participating in all aspects of hunting including trap shooting, duck calling and decoy placement. Plus, of course, food during breaks!
  5. Get him into a hunter safety course. Check schedules early and make sure the youngster gets the chance to take a hunter safety course, and go with him. Yes, it’s a little like school, but it’s set up to be a fun experience. Hunter safety courses aren’t just about safe gun handling – they’ve grown through the years to become a lot more.

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    The author’s son shows Hunter what to look for when the ducks arrive. (Photo by Steve Weisman)

  6. If your state has youth duck days, get in on them. Some states have an early duck season, often in mid to late September. The idea is to give hunters the chance to experience duck hunting during the warmer periods and to capitalize on uneducated ducks and any early migrating teal. This is the perfect time to take a youngster duck hunting for the first time.
  7. Make the hunting trip about the youngster. Share the beauty of the first light and the sounds of the slough. Make a game of it and have them guess what might be making those sounds. Listen for the cackle of a rooster pheasant. Have them look for ducks and to also pick out other birds flying, whether it’s a Canada goose, a seagull, an eagle or even a crow. And pack a lunch the youngster will enjoy.
  8. Bring a friend. Have the youngster invite a friend stay overnight and come along on the duck hunt. You can bet that they will keep each other entertained, and it will most likely help you keep your youth!
  9. Practice at the trap range. Before going duck hunting, go to a trap or sporting clay range and let the youngster take some shots. Guide them so they know how and where to aim. Start with easy straight-away targets before moving to tougher ones.
  10. Give the youngster some good shots. When it is time to actually shoot at a duck, he gets the shot. Give him the limelight. For safety sake I recommend only one shell in the chamber, and putting the youngster in the best place for a good shot. Guide them and help them know when to take the shot.

If you’ve done everything you can to help the kid enjoy the experience, and he still gets bored and wants to go home, don’t demand that he sit there and be quiet until YOU are ready to go home. Nothing will ever come of that, except a child that will never want to go again.

The bottom line? Duck hunting is about making memorable moments together – moments they’ll remember as great times!

***

About Steve Weisman

A retired teacher, Steve Weisman is a member of OWAA and AGLOW* and has been a freelance outdoor writer for 19 years. He writes for several publications throughout the Midwest. He enjoys sharing news about the outdoors through his own experiences and the information gained from DNR wildlife and fisheries biologists and outdoor experts. Contact Steve at stweis@mchsi.com.

*OWAA is Outdoor Writers Association of America.

  AGLOW is Association of Great Lakes Outdoor Writers.

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Book Review by Steve Sorensen

Buck Naked: The Straight Dope on Trophy Whitetails
by Jim Collyer

When a book arrives in my mailbox, unsolicited, I take a quick look and think, “Oh boy, another guy who thinks his whitetail insights are something special.”

“Oh boy!” is right – but this time I was very wrong!

buck-naked-book-cover-299x448It didn’t take me long to figure out Jim Collyer offers more than a hunting method, more than a how-to, more than a do-what-I-do approach to deer hunting. He offers a mindset, and when I started reading Buck Naked, I couldn’t put it down.

You won’t either because it contains secrets you’ve always wanted someone to reveal. Here are a few:

  • Is scouting really important? Yes – scouting means “evaluating the environment,” and you can’t understand deer in their world without doing that.
  • Do deer have a vocabulary? Yes – and it’s more than the vocal sounds they make.
  • Do some myths need busted? Yes – it might shock you that two of them are “hard work equals success,” and “big bucks are smart.”
  • Why are there more does than bucks? It’s not just because hunters are after the bucks.

The way Collyer answers these questions might seem surprising, but when you understand what he’s saying, a lightbulb over your head will turn on, and you’ll know he’s right.

Collyer approaches hunting with three principles:

  1. An understanding of yourself (self-mastery).
  2. An understanding of deer.
  3. An understanding of how to carry out a real investigation.

This third principle is vital, and what most hunters are lacking. In fact, the reason hunters don’t succeed more, Collyer says, is “Big bucks don’t want to be found; that’s exactly why they are so hard to find.”

So, to be a successful deer hunter, you have to draw on the Sherlock Holmes in you. Scouting is more than taking note of deer sign, or watching deer through binoculars. It’s real investigative work. It’s the foundation of successful whitetail hunting.

You’ll find plenty more in this 132-page book to help you avoid unfilled tags. Find out more about it at the author’s website, www.JimCollyer.com, where you’ll also find a link to ordering it, and the price is only $14.95.

***

About Steve Sorensen

steve-sorensen-head-shot-198x297Outdoor writer and speaker Steve Sorensen writes an award-winning newspaper column called “The Everyday Hunter®,” and he is the editor of the Havalon Sportsman’s Post. He has also published articles in Deer & Deer Hunting, Sports Afield, and many other top magazines across the USA. Invite Steve to speak at your next sportsman’s event, and follow him at www.EverydayHunter.com.

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Bow Hunters: Shot Placement

Or….Your Arrow’s Journey Through the Deer

By John Trout

Where your arrow hits the deer is less important
than what it hits inside.

“One inch can turn a great day into a nightmare.” That’s what a well-respected and experienced outfitter once told me. “If your arrow’s entry point is barely off, it could turn an easy five-minute recovery into an all-day tracking endeavor.”

buck-rut-angled-300x448Before going on, let me emphasize that bowhunters are a highly ethical group. A quick kill is top priority, so they don’t compromise on razor sharp broadheads and shooting within their effective range. Nevertheless, understanding the anatomy of a deer – what’s inside – is critical to selecting the perfect entry point for the arrow.

Shot Angle
Archers agree that the vital heart and lungs provide the best aiming point. It’s important, though, that we fully understand how a deer’s angle can prevent an arrow from reaching the vitals.

Consider quartering-into shots where a deer is angling toward you. Although the arrow could reach the chest cavity, it won’t necessarily pass through both lungs. Even if the arrow enters up front just behind the shoulder and even if you get extreme penetration, it might hit only the back of one lung, and miss the other. A deer hit through one lung is difficult to recover if the heart and arteries are spared. Thus, we can assume the quartering-into shot often results in a wound to one lung and possibly the liver and/or stomach.

Broadside shots are ideal, since it’s just a matter of achieving proper penetration to take out both lungs.

Quartering-away shots could be even better, since the arrow is always headed toward the boiler room. An arrow that enters near the center of the deer will still take out the vital lungs and heart. On the flip-side though, a deer that quarters away too sharply could make it difficult for your arrow to reach the heart or both lungs.

buck-rut-walking-448x300Heart vs. Lungs
Although both heart and lung shots are deadly, the heart should not be the primary choice for an aiming point. First, consider that the heart offers a smaller target. The heart of an adult deer is about 6 x 4 inches and lies at the bottom of the chest cavity just behind the front leg. The vital lungs, with a diameter of about 9 inches when inflated, lies just behind the shoulder and is centered from the deer’s back to the bottom of its chest. If your aiming point is slightly off when targeting the center of the lungs, you have more room for error than you would if you aimed at the heart.

Second, consider that a deer hit through both lungs seldom runs far and is typically down in seconds. That’s not always the case with a heart-shot deer. For instance, a broadhead that nicks or slices only the edge of the heart, instead of passing through the organ, usually results in a deer traveling farther before succumbing. Several cases of heart wounds where the arrow did not pass completely through or failed to sever the arteries that sit atop the heart have been documented. In many situations, these deer were jumped and pushed before they finally piled up.

Behind the Diaphragm
We’ve often heard the term “gut shot”. A bowhunter doesn’t want to hear those words, particularly when it’s time to track a deer. However, it is important to fully understand the organs of the abdomen and what occurs when the arrow passes through.

trout-jr-examining-blood-trail-300x448The liver is large and lies vertically just behind the diaphragm and vital lungs. It should never be selected as an aiming point, and is usually hit when a deer angles into, or away from the shooter. Most liver-hit deer will succumb within two hours of being hit.

Heading south behind the liver are the stomach, intestines and kidneys, collectively called the paunch. The large stomach is often hit when an arrow passes through the center of the deer. The intestines are located from two-thirds back on the deer and extend up to the hips.

It should be noted that any abdominal wound is deadly, be it liver, stomach, or intestines. With proper tracking techniques and patience, the animal can be recovered. The farther back the arrow enters, the longer you should let the animal go before tracking. Whenever possible, consider letting a paunch-shot deer go for several hours.

The kidneys lie just in front of the hips, high in the deer and near the spine. However, unlike other abdominal wounds previously mentioned, a hit to one or both of the kidneys results in a quick death. Of course, never consider these small organs as an aiming point.

Regardless of how accurately we shoot and how well we know a whitetail’s anatomy, the worst can still occur. We can make a bad shot, or experience a deflection. However, knowing a deer’s anatomy is sure to make you a better archer, a better hunter and a better teacher when you have the opportunity assist another hunter.

***

john-trout-jr-236x235About John Trout, Jr.

Southern Indiana hunter John Trout, Jr. is a full-time freelance writer and photographer specializing in whitetail deer, wild turkey and black bear. He has authored eight books and his work has appeared in nearly every hunting publication in North America. Visit his website at www.troutswildoutdoors.com

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Bow Hunting Tips: 5 Steps to Proper Bow Fit

By Jay Strangis

A bow that fits improves your shooting.

Whether you are new to archery or have been in the sport for years, one of the best things you can do for your shooting is to insure your bow fits properly. You’re going to be a much better shooter at crunch time with a bow that fits.

jay-strangis-profile-301x402It was years before I realized my bow’s draw length was too long. This is a common problem, one best recognized by frequent string slap on the forearm and only “fair” accuracy. A bow with a shorter draw length improved my shooting dramatically.

If you’re new to the sport, let’s assume you’ve already determined which eye is dominant and whether you are a right or left hand shooter. Let’s also assume you’ve chosen a bow with a draw weight that’s comfortable for you (but more about that later).

 

1) How to Determine Your Draw Length

Determining draw length isn’t an exact science because everyone is built differently. You may be 5′ 8″, but have the arms of an ape, or you may be 6′ 2″ with short arms (e.g. Payton Manning), so formulas based on height don’t work. A better formula suggests measuring “wingspan” – your outstretched arms from fingertip to fingertip, then dividing that distance by 2.5. This should get you close.

Don’t get hung up on the length of draw as if it were something to envy, as if longer were better. The advantage of a longer draw length is a longer power stroke, drawing more speed out of a given bow. The disadvantage is that a longer draw means the arrow will be in contact with the string longer, making a bow less forgiving. That’s why short-draw archers can handle aggressive bows with shorter brace heights better than long-draw archers can.

2) Check Your Draw Length on a Real Bow

Once you’ve estimated your draw length, it’s time to get behind the bow. The bow should feel comfortable and natural in your hand and just as comfortable at full draw. Compound bows, unlike recurve bows, have distinct back walls – the farthest point the string can be drawn. If a bow you are testing feels mushy at full draw, choose another model. A soft back wall erodes accuracy because it allows draw length to vary from shot to shot.

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The odds are not all of these archers are shooting their correct draw length.

With your release aid attached to the string (or string loop), draw the bow until you hit the back wall. Your left arm (if you are right handed) should be slightly bent at the elbow. If your arm is bent too much, your draw is too short. If your elbow is locked straight, your draw is too long. Locking that elbow also invites string slap.

Your right arm is a good indicator of proper draw length too. Ask someone to stand behind you to judge the angle of your right forearm (the arm you draw with). Your right forearm should line up with the arrow, with the elbow pointed straight back. If the forearm is angling outward (to the right) your draw is too short. If the forearm is pointing inward (your left) your draw is too long. With the proper draw length, all this should come together in a comfortable, natural, unforced, manner.

3) Establish Your Anchor Point

Reference points will become important parts of your regular anchor points, so it’s important to check and establish them now. With your face forward, not cocked sideways, notice where the knuckle on your draw hand touches your ear or cheek, and whether the bowstring ticks the end of your nose or crosses the corner of your mouth. These are important reference points as you establish your anchor point. Having a consistent anchor point is critical to shot-to-shot accuracy.

4) What About Heavy Bows?

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With proper bow fit the bow arm should be slightly bent at the elbow while the elbow of the draw arm should point straight back in a line parallel with the arrow. The bow should fit comfortably so that each time it is drawn to its “back wall” the string comes back to the same reference points on the face.

Perhaps you’re enamored with speed or power and you’d like to shoot a heavy bow. Most adult males shoot between 55 and 65 pounds of draw weight with compound bows. Some shooters opt for 70 pounds and more. More draw weight means more speed, but a tipping point comes where the struggle to draw the bow will affect your abilities as a hunter.

I’ve long been a proponent of choosing bow weights that don’t wear you out. To me, the 60-pound compound is heavy enough to handle any animal in North America. Recent improvements in efficiency and speed among compound bows increase my confidence in that viewpoint.

Cold muscles stiffened from a long sit on stand and nerves wracked by the excitement of a big deer at close range can limit the body’s ability to draw the bow. That’s not the time to struggle. A comfortable bow weight assures a smooth draw at the moment of truth.

5) Testing Your Bow-Drawing Strength

Still, some guys like the monster 80-pound bows that generate enough horsepower to take out a house. Many of those shooters couldn’t pass a simple test of arm strength that involves sitting flat on the floor with legs outstretched and drawing the bow without raising the bow arm. That’s a great starting point for evaluating your bow-drawing strength. If you struggle to draw and hold a bow, it will affect your accuracy negatively.

Most bows have adjustable draw weights. Factories ship bows at the high end of these draw weights. Bows perform best at or close to their maximum, but by backing the limbs off evenly, the bow can be shot at lighter draw weights. If you’re a new shooter and order a bow with a 50 to 60-pound draw, back the limbs down for practice and build arm strength before working up to its maximum weight.

Conclusion

Whether you’re a new shooter or one that’s been at the archery game for years, take a close look at how your bow fits. Not only will a bow that fits promote better overall accuracy, it will also make you a better killing machine at the moment of truth.

***

jay-strangis-headshot-150x167About Jay Strangis

Jay Strangis served as Editor of Petersen’s Bowhunting for 15 years. Jay has bowhunted across North American and on three continents, taking many trophy animals along the way. He has a special passion for spot-and-stalk mule deer hunting.

 

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