How To Track Deer: A Master Reveals His Secrets, Part 1

by Bill Vaznis

Can you really tell a buck track from a doe track?

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The deformed hoof on this buck would make easy to track through a bedding or feeding area.

“There is no anatomical difference between the hoof of a buck and that of a doe,” a biologist once told me. “Therefore it is impossible to say with any degree of certainty that a deer track you find in the snow was left there by one sex or the other.”

8 Clues to “Sexing” a Set of Deer Tracks

Each deer season, hundreds if not thousands of racked deer meet their demise by savvy buck hunters who can indeed sex a set of deer tracks. All it takes is a little common sense. Here are some clues to look for when learning how to track deer:

  1. In wilderness areas a mature buck outweighs the average doe by 100 to 200 pounds. It stands to reason then his spoor will be longer and wider than that of a doe to support that extra weight. Indeed, if your fist does not cover the track and it measures over three inches in width, it was probably made by a mature buck with a live weight of at least 200 pounds.
  2. If the ground is soft underneath his toes will also be splayed, pointing outward.
  3. His rear feet will sink deeper into the soil than the average doe, and his dew claws will leave impressions. Why? He has a bigger, heavier butt!
  4. Rutting bucks seem to drag their feet, probably to conserve energy, but with six or more inches of snow both sexes drag their feet.
  5. Look closely at his front hoof prints. Rutting bucks make lots of scrapes, often wearing down and roughing up the outside edge of each front hoof.
  6. A mature buck has a barrel chest. Thus his trail will be wider than that of a doe… at least six inches to the right and left of the median. This wider trail is dead give-away and easy to spot from a distance.
  7. A rutting buck moves through the woods with a destination in mind, purposeful and straight forward, as he travels from one concentration of does to another in his seemingly endless search for a hot doe. A doe will more likely meander back and forth with no particular place to go, and her tracks will appear daintier.

    take-firts-shot-that-presents-448x299

    Take the first good shot that presents itself. Chances are you will never see that late season buck again.

  8. Another trait to keep in mind is the length of stride. Jim Glidden, one of the founding fathers of the New Hampshire Skull and Antler Club, hunts heavy bucks. At last count several years ago, he had 15 of the monsters to his credit. He discovered that a mature buck that will dress out at 200 or more pounds has at least a two-foot stride measured from the tip of his front foot to the heel of his rear foot. It will dress out only 190 pounds however if the measurement is 23½ to 24 inches. What a difference a half-inch can make!

Yellow Snow

Jim Massett, one of the nation’s leading deer trackers and former president of the New York Big Buck Club, once told me how he can differentiate a fawn buck track from that of a fawn doe. As he tells it, a doe squats to urinate leaving a yellow stain dead center between her back legs. A buck however, whose sheathed penis is positioned similar to that of a dog, urinates left or right and a bit forward of dead center. To be sure, it takes lots of experience in the deer woods to make that determination.  Tips like these can save you a lot of time in learning how to track deer.

Of course, if you find rose colored snow, you can pretty well assume it belongs to mature doe near estrous. If the track is fresh, you might just want to hang around a bit. A rutting buck may not be far away.

Don’t miss A Master Tracker Reveals His Secrets, Part 2

***

About Bill Vaznis

bill-vaznis-head-shot-120x160A lifetime of hunting and outdoor writing has put Bill’s byline in every major outdoor magazine in North America. He has published over 1,000 articles and columns plus thousands of photographs on bowhunting, big-game hunting and freshwater fishing. Today he owns and edits a rapidly growing digital magazine for bear hunters named Bear Hunters Online. He has also published three how-to hunting books: Successful Black Bear Hunting, 500 Deer Hunting Tips and Still-Hunting Trophy Whitetails. He lives on a farm in upstate New York with Grizz, a 30-pound woodchuck with a voracious appetite for the neighbors’ gardens.

For more articles by Bill Vaznis, click here.

For the best deer skinning knife, click here.

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Deer Hunting Tips: Secrets to the Second Rut

By John Trout, Jr.

Major misconceptions surround the second rut.

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Most mature does breed during the peak rut, but a few estrus doe fawns could trigger the second rut. (Photo by John & Vikki Trout)

Deer hunters know the second rut provides a second chance. You know how the second rut works: A doe comes into estrus about a month after the peak rut. The bucks go on a rampage and the hunter once again takes advantage of a rutting buck’s mistake.

Well, that’s what some of us would like to think happens. But not so fast. As they say, “There’s more to the story.” Granted, I wish it worked that way. However, major misconceptions surround the second rut and its impact on deer hunting. It doesn’t compare to the first rut. Moreover, if it did, even fewer bucks would ever see their second birthday.

Understanding the Deer Breeding Cycle

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The author looks over a few deer tracks in an open, snowy field. If you hope to cash in on the second rut, find the does and forget the old buck sign. (Photo by John & Vikki Trout)

Like the peak rut, we know that the timing of breeding also governs the second rut. Meanwhile, the bucks are always ready. Nevertheless, what percentage of mature does will come into estrus a second time? If you are thinking one-third, or maybe one-fourth, think again.

It’s true that if a mature doe doesn’t breed the first time she comes into estrus (usually during the peak rut), she will cycle again about four weeks later. Unfortunately, very few mature does don’t breed the first time they come into estrus. In fact, even if very few bucks are around, you can bet that 90 percent or more of the mature does are impregnated by the time the second rut begins. They won’t come into estrus again.

In reality, breeding doe fawns trigger the second rut. A portion of healthy fawns and early- born fawns will come into estrus. In one study of pen-reared deer that were consistently fed high-protein nutritional food, about 1 in 5 doe fawns bred their first year. A few bred during the peak rut, but most doe fawns bred several weeks later, initiating the second rut.

Timing the Second Rut for Deer Hunting

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Fresh buck sign is often hard to come by during the late season. However, it could suddenly appear at the onset of a breeding doe in the area. (Photo by John & Vikki Trout)

Knowing when to hunt during the late season – when to take advantage of the second rut – is downright difficult. You cannot count on the second rut to occur one month after the first rut. Any mature does that didn’t breed the first time would come into estrus at that time, but don’t count on them to trigger the second rut.

In the Midwest where I hunt, I have seen fawns come into estrus a month, and sometimes two months after the peak rut. Although the peak rut is usually around November 12 where I reside, the second rut occurs anywhere from December 10 through the middle of January. Surprisingly, it could occur on more than one occasion – several weeks apart.

In all reality, the second rut is hit-and-miss. In other words, you could see a buck in pursuit of a doe four weeks after the peak rut. Avid late season deer hunters might see it happen again a few weeks later.

With that in mind, let’s just say that you can’t assume when more breeding will occur once the first rut ends. But that’s not the worst news. The second rut is less intense and could occur without you even knowing. The second rut is sometimes no more than a flurry of action, because there are few unbred does to trigger it. If you don’t sit in the right spot at the right time, you would swear that no second rut occurred.

Fresh Rubs and Scrapes For Late Season Deer Hunting

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By late season, the big boys may appear to have gone back to nocturnal habits. Fortunately, it takes only one spark during the second rut to bring them out of hiding. (Photo by John & Vikki Trout)

If I have a tag to fill, I hunt consistently during the late season with bow and arrow and during the muzzleloader season. Conditions are typically harsh and bucks difficult to find.

Such was the case a few years ago as I sat perched in a huge maple tree along a trail where buck sign had nearly vanished. Out of nowhere, a doe fawn skirted past me with three bucks on her tail. Although the last buck was a huge 8-pointer in easy bow range, they passed by so quickly that I never even had a chance to draw the bow.

The following day I returned to the stand hoping the doe would still be around. She wasn’t, but I discovered two new rubs and several fresh scrapes.

Although bucks leave very little telltale sign during late season, it could all change if a breeding doe shows up. Once a flurry of action begins, some bucks are prompted to produce scrapes and rubs almost anywhere.

My point is that fresh rubs and scrapes found during the late season often provide indication that second rut activity occurred. If you locate such an area, I suggest you set up and hunt nearby. Does that come into estrus usually don’t travel far, and they will likely have a buck, or bucks, near them for the next 24 to 36 hours.

Summing Up the Secrets to Deer Hunting the Second Rut

  1. Most mature does are already bred when the second rut comes.
  2. The second rut means some healthy and early-born doe fawns are entering estrus.
  3. The second rut is less intense, and sometimes only a brief flurry of action.
  4. Fresh late season rubs and scrapes might signal breeding interest of bucks.

The second rut is similar to a thief in the night. Blink and you could miss it. Then again, if you are on stand in the right location, the second rut might just pay off.

***

john-trout-jr-236x235About John Trout, Jr

Southern Indiana hunter John Trout, Jr. is a full-time freelance writer and photographer specializing in whitetail deer, wild turkey and black bear. He has authored eight books and his work has appeared in nearly every publication in North America. You’ll enjoy a visit his website at www.troutswildoutdoors.com.

For more articles by John Trout, click here.

And click here for the best deer skinning knife.

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Fall and Winter Walleyes: 7 Steps for Cold Water River Fishing

By Darl Black

Fall and winter open water rivers offer
fantastic walleye fishing.

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Shoreline angler Justin Shay with winter walleye taken on creek bait.

When I turned 12 – the age to obtain a Pennsylvania junior hunting license – I joined my dad and uncle on their annual trip to the Allegheny National Forest for the opening three days of antlered deer season. On Sunday, as we drove across the Allegheny River at Tionesta, I observed numerous anglers lining the shoreline of the big eddy below the bridge. “Those guys are fishing for walleye with chubs they trapped in creeks,” commented Dad. “Walleye fishing is great at this time of year, so some of them also fish during their stay at deer camp.”

As the years passed, my interest in hunting waned while my dedication to angling increased. I realized what Dad said was true – fall is a fantastic time for river walleye. Surprisingly, given all changes to freshwater angling in the five decades since my first deer camp, the techniques employed by river fishermen have pretty much remained the same. Whether fishing a river for walleye from shore or by boat, the majority of late fall and winter anglers use live indigenous preyfish obtained from local streams.

Prescription for Cold Water Walleye in Northern Rivers and Creeks

  1. Obtain a minnow trap. The most popular trap is a two-piece wire funnel trap available from Frabill (www.frabill.com). Attach a 12-foot piece of thin nylon cord (i.e. parachute cord) to the trap.

    marilyn-removes-bait-trap-448x299

    Marilyn Black removes bait trap from small stream.

  2. Scout for baitfish. Walk the banks of small streams which feed rivers or major creeks, checking the deeper holes for the presence of baitfish. The exact species will vary from watershed to watershed, but the best preyfish are four inches to almost seven inches in length. Since baitfish may be difficult to see against the dark bottom, toss dry bread crumbs into the hole to create a feeding frenzy.
  3. Bait and place the trap. When you find a hole with a good number of baitfish, open the 2-piece trap. Tear apart two slices of bread, wad pieces into balls and place in the trap. Close and latch the trap. Pitch trap into the hole, and tie rope to a branch or sapling tree. Leave overnight.

    live-bait-transferred-from-trap-to-bucket-448x299

    Live bait transferred from trap to bait bucket.

  4. Keep the baitfish lively. Return the next morning, pull the trap and transfer baitfish into a transport container. At home, move baitfish to an aerated storage container, such as an insulated 10 gallon picnic cooler with a 120-V AC fish-tank pump. When going fishing, transport bait in a battery-operated aerated container (example: Frabill Min-o-Life carrier).

  5. Select the correct rod. Some fishermen will use any available rod for live bait fishing. However, a 6½’ to 7½’ medium-power spinning rod with moderate flexibility in the upper section is generally the best choice. This style rod provides good casting distance, is long enough to allow mending line on a drift, and has sufficient hook-setting power yet forgiveness so not to snap 8-pound test line on a big fish. I prefer monofilament over superline.
  6. Scan the river for fish-holding locations. River walleyes are actively feeding in the late fall, positioning themselves along current seams, in pocket eddies, behind objects such as large rocks or deadfalls, and on outwash gravel bars at tributary creek mouths. Depth is rarely a critical factor in river walleye location during the fall – the fish may be feeding in two feet of water or in 12 feet. Current breaks however are critical to baitfish position – so that’s where you’ll find walleyes.

    jeff-knapp-with-late-fall-walleye299x448

    Allegheny River guide Jeff Knapp with late fall walleye taken on chub.



  7. Make the proper presentation. Keep rigging minimal so baitfish are presented naturally. For large creeks or small rivers where fishing depths range from four to 12 feet and current flow is moderate, simply tie on an appropriate size hook and crimp split shot on the line about 12 inches above the hook. Use enough weight so the bait ticks the bottom as it drifts with the current. Size #4 or #2 bait hook will handle four to five-inch preyfish; size #1 or #1/0 may be used for six-inch bait.





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Close up of walleye taken
on creek bait.

Use Circle Hooks and Save Fish
Years ago, all live bait fishermen used hooks with a standard “J” bend. They let walleye run a long distance with baitfish before setting the hook, resulting in hooks buried in the gills or deep in the throat of the fish. Released fish frequently died from injuries. However, the introduction of circle hooks to freshwater angling has reduced hooking injuries to released walleye.

With circle hooks, do not snap or jerk on the rod to set the hook. Instead, as the walleye moves away with the bait, point the rod at the fish and engage the bail. As the line tightens, firmly lift the rod tip straight up. Executed properly, the fish will be hooked in the corner of its mouth over 90% of the time. If legal size, keep for a fish dinner if desired, while releasing others unharmed.

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Close up of walleye taken on hand-tied hair jig – most popular river lure for coldwater walleye.

The Hair Jig Alternative
If a walleye angler is not fishing with live baitfish during the fall, then they are swimming hair jigs. Hair is the traditional lure on the river when water temperatures are below 55 degrees. Most serious walleye anglers tie their own using some combination of bucktail, deer body hair, hackle feathers, marabou plumes or rabbit fur strips.

Basic black, white or yellow jigs are popular, but dedicated anglers tie patterns which resemble preyfish in the river. Typical weights range from 1/16-ounce to 5/16-ounce. As with a live bait rig, fishermen choose a jig weight which barely ticks bottom with a pull-pause retrieve. Some fishermen increase confidence by tipping a jig with a 3-inch fathead minnow, but purists insist on fishing hair jigs without live bait adornment.

***

darl-black-head-shotAbout Darl Black

A lifelong freshwater angler and veteran writer/photographer, Darl tackles a wide variety of fishing related stories for print publications and websites. Of all fishing, angling for smallmouth bass is his favorite pastime. He may be reached for assignment at darlblack@windstream.net.


For more fishing articles by Darl Black, click here.

And click here for the best fillet knife for your cold-water walleye.

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Late Season Deer Hunting Tips

by Bill Vaznis

Big post-rut bucks are more vulnerable than ever!

The late deer season, open in many states through January, is my favorite time of the year. Bucks are on the move again as the biggest and most secretive bucks look for one more estrous doe before breeding season finally trickles to an end. By mid-December most females have been bred, and that means mature bucks are on the prowl in unfamiliar territory during legal shooting hours. If you know where to look, they can be easy targets.

Four Late Season Muzzleloading Deer Hunting Tips

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Once the intense part of the rut has wound down, mature bucks will travel far and wide looking for one more doe to breed.

#1 – Hunt Scrapes and Scrape Lines
When you sense the rut is tailing off, it’s time to return to the primary scrapes and scrape lines that were hot during the pre-rut. Bucks will reopen scrapes that have been dormant for several weeks, and begin checking them regularly. And sometimes does that have not yet been bred will seek out these freshened scrapes in an effort to hook up with a mature buck.

Still-hunting along these scrape lines can be a productive strategy once again, but stay alert. Sometimes a buck will bed down nearby and wait for a doe to wander by. Get in the habit of looking for racked deer holed up next to a log or brush pile. His swiveling rack can be a dead giveaway.

#2 – Look for Food Sources
A buck’s main goal during the post rut is to nourish himself after the intensity of the rut. Study topographical maps, and look for old apple orchards, vineyards and farm fields that are off the beaten path, plus those expansive lowland edges along rivers, lakes, and swamps. These attract hungry deer. Orchards and vineyards show up on the map as several parallel rows of squiggly circles. Hidden agricultural fields often lie beyond roads and the far side of large woodlots.

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During the late season bucks will reopen scrapes and scrape lines that were hot during the pre-rut.

Now look for terrain features that protected deer during the fall fusillade as well as the cold winds of winter. Ravines, gullies and steep ridges should immediately come to mind, especially those that are adjacent to farm fields, abandoned apple orchards and hardwood ridges thick with hickory, beech and oak mast.
Bucks will be bedded close to these food sources. Therefore you will need to set your stand up closer to the food source than you normally would. Be sure to approach your stand carefully and climb aloft quietly.

#3 – Find Hidden Deer Populations
Still unable to find a late season buck? After a fresh snowfall, look for deer tracks where you would not expect to find deer, and follow the first set you come across. Those tracks invariably lead to other deer tracks, and then to hitherto unknown late-season feeding areas such as an oak ridge above a swamp or a windswept alfalfa lot.

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Look carefully or you’ll miss them – does not bred during the regular rut will sometimes bed near a late-season scrape in an effort
to hook up with a buck.

As temperatures drop and winter sets in, expect deer to be more active during the middle of the day when it is the warmest. You can also expect deer to congregate on southern slopes. Still-hunt back and forth crosswind, and you might catch a buck bedded in a sunny patch facing downhill. Be alert! Trophy bucks sometimes drop their antlers during the late season, and the big doe you shoot now could very well turn out to be the record book buck you saw last summer – sans antlers!

#4 – Use Snowshoes
Deep snow may inhibit your access to those late-season food sources. Of course, other hunters will also find it difficult to reach these strongholds giving you a primary hunting location all to yourself – if you can traverse through the snow. On several occasions I have used snow shoes to get into the back country where deer are congregated, and I now keep a pair stuffed away in the back of my 4×4 just for those days.

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Keep in mind that mature bucks often drop their antlers early. The big doe you are about to shoot could be a buck sans antlers!

Shoe design is important. Modern snow shoes are aluminum framed and feature crampons for better stability and nylon webbing that does not stretch when wet like rawhide rigging does. Choose a small “bear paw” design rather than the longer cross-country or “pickerel” style – they’re much more maneuverable over uneven terrain and in thick brush.

Skirt known or suspected bedding areas for those cautious bucks that prefer to linger in the thick stuff before exposing themselves during daylight hours. Tweak his mating instincts now with a doe-in-heat canister call to get a realistic b-a-a-a-t. A nice added feature is that these calls do not freeze up as you do not have to breathe into them.

When the woods have grown quiet, and the deer have settled down, the last thing on the mind of a big buck is a hunter. Take advantage of that.

***

About Bill Vaznis

bill-vaznis-head-shot-120x160A lifetime of hunting and outdoor writing has put Bill’s byline in every major outdoor magazine in North America. He has published over 1,000 articles and columns plus thousands of photographs on bowhunting, big-game hunting and freshwater fishing. Today he owns and edits a rapidly growing digital magazine for bear hunters named Bear Hunters Online. He has also published three how-to hunting books: Successful Black Bear Hunting, 500 Deer Hunting Tips and Still-Hunting Trophy Whitetails. He lives on a farm in upstate New York with Grizz, a 30-pound woodchuck with a voracious appetite for the neighbors’ gardens.

For more articles by Bill Vaznis, click here.

If you want the best deer skinning knife for that late-season buck, click here.

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Through the Ice – Pro Fishermen Share 5 Secrets

By Darl Black

Use the ice fishing techniques the
tournament pros use!

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With a depthfinder mounted to a bucket seat, Mike Kuna can move quickly from hole to hole.

Mike Kuna and Bob Griffith are professional competitive ice anglers who would rather sit around a hole in the ice on a frozen lake in the middle of winter than soak up summer rays while fishing from a boat.

“I see hard-water fishing as more challenging than soft-water fishing,” says Kuna. “Instead of standing in a boat where I can fan cast 360 degrees, I’m dealing with a 6- or 8-inch hole from which I must track down fish and entice them to bite. You tell me, which is more challenging?”

Hailing from western Pennsylvania where there is no guarantee that there will be more than a few weeks of safe ice, Mike and Bob travel considerable distances each winter to ‘colder’ states in order to participate in ice fishing competition. Like traveling pro bass anglers, these ice fishing pros frequently find themselves on unfamiliar waters. They have acquired the knowledge and skills to evaluate waters and quickly locate biting fish.
Here are some of their tips:

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A Vexilar sonar reveals detailed information
under the ice.

  1. Research before arrival. Rather than arriving at a lake and making a beeline for the area where the greatest numbers of anglers are already set up – like so many ice fishermen do – Kuna and Griffith invest time on the Internet researching a new body of water. Kuna says, “We search for local fishing reports, checking the type of area where anglers generally make winter catches. Then we study contour maps of the lake and try to figure out similar areas which we can reach during ice season. Sometimes we end up fishing near the pack; other times we strike out away from the group – but it’s our decision based on our research.”
  2. bob-griffith-finds-perch-392x336

    Bob Griffith finds perch.

    Drill, baby, drill. “Most of the time we engage in a run-and-gun style of fishing,” explains Kuna. “Once we determine the general area to fish and check the depth with a test hole, we then drill a line of perhaps 20 holes before we actually start fishing. How far apart our holes are depends on the general bottom contour. For perch, if we’re checking a large flat with gradual depth change, we allow greater distance between holes. However, if fishing for crappies on an area with a drop-off, ledge, channel or weedbed, our holes will be closer together because of the rapid contour changes.
  3. catching-fish-starts-with-fish-in-hole-448x326

    When one of the partners finds a hole with fish,
    the catching starts.

    Don’t sit still. With a large number of holes drilled, Kuna and Griffith lower a sonar transducer down to check for fish marks. If fish marks show up on the sonar, they begin fishing in earnest. However, if they don’t get the correct signals from the sonar, one of them nonetheless will drop a line down the hole for a quick test to see if they can draw fish to their baits. If they don’t get a bite quickly, then it’s on to the next one as they hopscotch the line of holes until one of them encounters fish.
  4. Mobility is a critical component. “Rarely do we actually set up a shelter,” says Kuna. “We need to be mobile in order to find fish, and then immediately move if the bite slows down. A sled carries my drill, rods and supplies, but actual fishing is generally done when I set-up on a 7-gallon bucket to which my depthfinder is attached. This way I can keep moving from hole to hole, and even going back to a previous hole. If bad weather is moving in, then we will set up a shelter.”
  5. mixed-panfish-on-ice-448x308

    Mixed bag of panfish on ice.

    Sonar is still the #1 technology. In recent years, underwater cameras have captured the interest of ice fishermen. Kuna says that cameras have a role in ice fishing, but quality sonar is still the primary tool because it can provide much more detailed information. “I run a Vexilar unit, which I believe is the ultimate ice fishing sonar. It is attached to my bucket, and I can move quickly around the lake area with just the bucket containing the minimal necessary equipment. In addition to the depthfinder and well-balanced rods and reels, I have added the new Aqua-Vu  pocket-size camera which helps me identify the size of the fish I’m seeing around my bait on the sonar. This new downsized camera is a far better investment than the older large units which were a pain to carry around on the ice.”

Above all, stay safe on the ice. Mike Kuna offers these safety reminders:

✓  Don’t trust what you read online about current ice thickness at a particular lake – verify ice thickness upon arriving at the lake.

✓  Don’t assume the ice will be uniform. Weak spots occur due to current movement, springs and even weed growth near the surface. Periodically test thickness with a test hole as you move across the lake – especially when venturing onto areas off the beaten track.

✓  Purchase and use traction devices for your boots. “The most common injury I see on the ice comes from falling due to slick ice,” says Kuna. “The bottoms of boots are not designed for sure-footing on glare ice. Buy a set of ‘creepers’ to slip onto your boots – but not the spike type. Buy a decent pair, not cheap ones which will fall apart quickly. I use Yak Tracks which are small wire coils – great for both slick ice and snow.”

***

darl-black-image-154x230About Darl Black

A lifelong freshwater angler and veteran writer/photographer, Darl tackles a wide variety of fishing related stories for print publications and websites.  Of all fishing, angling for smallmouth bass is his favorite pastime.  He may be reached for assignment at darlblack@windstream.net.

   

For more articles by Darl Black, click here.

And click here for the best fillet knife out on the ice or in the kitchen.

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