Hunting 101: Five Foot Care Secrets for the Outdoorsman

Posted on August 6, 2013 by HavalonKnives

By Tom Claycomb III

Not having to slow down  for avoidable foot pain is crucial for anyone who plans on hiking, hunting or fishing.

Are you rabbit hunting in a flat pasture, or are you hitting hardcore elk country? Your feet will know the difference, and how you treat them will make a difference in how far you go and how good you’ll feel.

That rabbit pasture will give you little to worry about, but elk country is a whole ’nother ball game, so read on because what worked down low may kill your feet up high.

Tom hiking through various terrain.

This picture shows three distinct types of terrain. The boots you wear need to handle them all.

It Only Took One Bad Experience with Foot Pain to Teach Me a Lesson

I’ve encountered some bad times with my feet or I wouldn’t be writing about it. One backcountry trip in particular really motivated me to learn more about taking care of my feet.  We were packing into a wilderness camp on horses, and my buddy was going to meet me at the trailhead on Wednesday right after daylight.

When I arrived I learned I wasn’t riding. I had to hike in because the day before he’d rolled two horses and a mule off the trail down into the river below. The seven miles to camp wouldn’t have been a big deal, except that I had tortured my feet for the five previous days and they were conspiring to kill me. They had taken me to the top of some bad mountains three times, packed a deer down, ridden across a river, climbed to the top of another mountain to pack out an elk, and then led the horses down. I had blisters on all sides and bottoms of my feet – more blisters than I’ve ever had before.

Just that one week taught me plenty about caring for my feet.

Here are five tips – all guaranteed to help you.

 

Always carry an extra pair of boots even if your pack is stuffed.

Even if you’re packed to the hilt, you could tie an extra pair of boots to your pack.

1. Don’t Depend on Just One Pair of Footwear.

Take two pairs of boots to camp so you can rotate your footwear. That gives your boots a chance to breathe and your feet a change in environment. In bad weather you’ll want high top leather boots for deep snow and extreme cold. I like my Black Bears by Irish Setter. For warmer weather I like canvas type hiking boots. They’re lighter, easier to hike in, and it doesn’t hurt them to get wet because they’ll dry out fast. They’re good down to the low 30-degree range. Irish Setter has some new Shed Tracker boots I’m looking forward to testing.

When you can’t take two pairs of boots, make comfort and fit your first priorities. On this trip I had a solid pair of heavy duty boots, but they weren’t comfortable for big time hiking.

2. River Sandals can be a Great Option.

When I backpack for fly fishing trips I wear canvas hiking boots, but I also throw a pair of river sandals in my pack. I set up camp and then fish in them. I love river sandals because I can wade out into the holes and fish, then crawl out, dry off in seconds, and hike to another hole. But getting sand under the straps is a killer – it grinds your skin away.

Don’t buy cheap river sandals. Cheap ones will separate – it has happened to me at least three times and each time I’ve been at least five miles from camp. That’s why I carry duct tape. Adventure Medical Kits offers some compact rolls. Or, you can roll your own – put about 50 feet of the life-saving stuff around an empty shotgun shell.

3. Moleskin is a Miracle.

When you first feel a blister coming on, stop and put on some moleskin or a Band-Aid. Don’t try to tough it out. By the time you feel it, the blister has already started – which brings up Adventure Medical Kits again. It seems like their moleskin has saved me a million times. They have numerous foot care kits to choose from, and they’re the best in the land.

4. Socks are as Important as Boots.

Good boot socks are as important as proper boots. I cannot tell you how much they help your feet. Angie Marshburn with Carolina Hosiery is my go-to girl anytime I have sock questions. Most American hosiery companies have gone by the wayside, but there’s a reason Carolina is still in business.

When choosing socks, think about all they do. A good pair of boots socks wicks moisture away, reduces friction, keeps your feet warmer, and cushions your feet. Thicker socks help eliminate blistering, especially when combined with sock liners. I don’t want to exaggerate but they feel like you’re walking on carpet.

The correct hiking boots are crucial to foot care while hiking.

Relatively flat, smooth trails don’t require heavy, foot-stabilizing boots. They’ll make you tired.

5. Wear the Right Size Boots. 

Don’t buy new boots without trying them on with your hiking socks so you buy the right size. In boots that don’t fit, your feet will slop around, bister up, and get too tired to carry you. In boots that do fit, your feet will have support, cushioning, and stability. They’ll carry you mile after mile.

 

 

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About Tom Claycomb III

Author Tom Claycomb IIITom lives in Idaho writes outdoor articles for various newspapers, magazines & websites. If it’s something outdoors, he probably likes it. You can read some more of his writings at: www.Amazon.com, www.TomClaycomb3.com, and www.BassPro.com.[hs_action id=”7771″]

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How to Choose the Correct Bobber…
Plus Secrets Many Experts Don’t Know!

Posted on July 23, 2013 by HavalonKnives

By Darl Black

Bobbers don’t just “bob” – your bobber choice and rigging will add more fish to your frying pan.

Sitting on a folding camp stool while watching a large red-n-white globe bounce on the water’s surface is the earliest recollection I have of fishing. A few years later I was presented my own single-tray metal tackle box. It came stocked with hooks, split shot, swivels and, of course, a supply of colorful clip-on bobbers.

bobbers or floats available in various shapes and sizes 448x299

Bobbers, or floats, are available in various shapes and sizes. Some styles are more suited to still water while others work better in current. Select a bobber with the buoyancy needed to “float” your bait, trying not to go with too large (too much buoyancy); otherwise skittish fish may detect too much resistance when trying to move off the bait. Some companies, such as Thill, will mark the weight the bobber will support right on the float.

Back then I thought all bobbers were the same, serving the sole purpose of showing the angler when a fish had taken a minnow. But over time I discovered bobbers were more than bite indicators for live bait; they could also be used in conjunction with certain artificial lures. I came to realize there’s a lot to consider when choosing bobbers.

sometimes basic cork float is all thats needed 448x299

Sometimes a basic cork float is all that is required
for your presentation.

Three Reasons to Use Bobbers
Most fishermen use the term bobber and float interchangeably; I certainly do since both serve the same purposes – specifically, three purposes:

  1. Foremost, they are bite indicators – although in some instances a fish does not need to actually pull the bobber underwater before the angler reacts with a hookset.
  2. Second, bobbers serve as a presentation aid, enabling anglers to retrieve a lure or live bait at a constant pre-determined depth.
  3. Third, a properly rigged bobber can increase casting distance when employing almost weightless live bait or a micro jig.
fixed float held with silicone sleeves won't damage line 299x448

A fixed float held in place on the line with silicone sleeves will not damage the line. Fixed bobbers attached with metal clips may pinch the line and weaken it.

Fixed Bobber
Bobbers are divided into two distinct categories: fixed and slip. Each has advantages and disadvantages. A fixed bobber attaches at one point to the line by means of either a spring-loaded clip system, a small peg, or silicone sleeves. Once in position, the bobber does not move until the fisherman readjusts it.

The primary advantage of the fixed float is maintaining a defined leader length between the bobber and a lure or live bait throughout a retrieve. An example would be keeping a small jig or live bait swimming very slowly above a submerged weedbed.

The primary disadvantage of a fixed bobber is difficulty in casting. Both accuracy and distance suffer when the leader between bobber and bait tumbles end over end. The shorter the lead from bobber to bait, the easier it is to cast. To be practical, a fixed bobber rig is limited to a leader of four feet or less.

Slip Bobber
A slip bobber (or slip float as many anglers call them) slides up and down the line, with the depth setting controlled by a bobber stop placed on the line. The most popular bobber stop is a braided line slip-knot tightened onto the line, followed by tiny sliding bead which prevents the sliding bobber from passing over the knot. The knot passes through rod guides and is wound onto the reel spool in preparation for a cast, while the bobber slides down to near the bait.

slip bobber slides down line 448x200

A slip bobber slides down the line to near the bait when the angler casts.

This system has two advantages over the fixed bobber. It offers the ability to set a bobber at any distance from the bait, and it increases casting distance. You make your case with the bobber stop on the reel and the float near the bait. After completing the cast, the weighted bait pulls the line back through the slip float until the float encounters the bobber stop on the line. Although bait can be theoretically suspended below a slip float at any depth, from a practical standpoint the maximum depth setting is usually about 20 feet.

stopper knot critical to good slip bobber rig 448x247

A stopper knot is critical to a good slip bobber rig. Stopper knots come pre-tied on short straws. Feed the tag end of the line through the straw. Then slide the knot off the straw onto the line. Gently pull each end of the knot but do not over-tighten. Remove the straw and slide the knot to the desired depth setting, then snug it a bit tighter. Add a stopper bead and then the slip float. Most anglers add a second bead after the slip bobber to ensure the bobber does not get wedged on the
eye of the hook.

The disadvantage of a slip float is the inability to maintain a consistent leader distance between the bobber and lure during a retrieve. In other words, you cannot swim a lure at constant depth since the line will slide through the float. Slip float rigging is widely used with live bait on either a bait hook or small jig.

stopper knot on bobber set at eight feet 278x448

As this angler prepares to cast, the stopper knot (set at eight feet) is wound on the spool and the slip bobber has slid down to the split-shot above the small jig. (It looks so big because it’s swinging back over her shoulder toward the camera.)

Tricks of the Trade
Bobber rigs can be used effectively for any species. The size – or rather buoyancy – of the float will vary based on the bait being used, but the principle of the rigging remains the same. Some float manufacturers list the buoyance on the bobber.

Over time you will discover nuances to rigging bobbers. For example, when trying to tempt skittish walleye or panfish, bobber buoyancy can be adjusted by adding split shot to the line so only the top tip of a long stem float is visible. Rigged in this manner, a fish doesn’t detect any resistance when taking the bait.

Another trick allows the angler to read “up bites” which occur most often with crappies. First, remove split-shot from the line so a long-stem bobber lies at a 45-degree angle instead of standing straight up. When a crappie lazily swims up and takes a minnow but does not move off with it – simply sitting there instead – the float will lay flat on the surface rather than disappear under water. This signals an up- or lift-bite, and the angler can respond with a hookset.

Drifting a single salmon egg in a steelhead stream is easily accomplished with a fixed float on the line. The possibilities go on and on – see my “bobber recipes” below.

Now that you know about bobbers, go get some fish for tonight’s supper!

DBs favorite bobber rig recipes 480x614

For more great articles by Darl Black, click here.

***

Darl Black iconAbout Darl Black

A lifelong freshwater angler and veteran writer and photographer, Darl tackles a wide variety of fishing related stories for print publications and websites. Of all fishing, angling for smallmouth bass is his favorite pastime. He may be reached for assignment at darlblack@windstream.net.[hs_action id=”7720″]

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Plus Secrets Many Experts Don’t Know!

Bow Hunting:
A Top Elk Hunter Confirms What A Top Elk Guide Says About…

Posted on July 19, 2013 by HavalonKnives

The Critical Work After Drawing an Elk Tag

by Bob Robb

big bull during my arizona hunt 448x280

This is just one of the many big bulls I saw, and got close to, during my recent Arizona elk hunt. (Photo by Bob Robb)

I had been down this road before, so I knew that having the tag is just the beginning of a long quest at getting a shot at a good bull. Despite what you might think, anyone who accrues bonus or preference points in several states each year doesn’t just get drawn, show up, hunt on his own and arrow a big bull or buck. It’s no cake walk.

The truth is, the competition out there is fierce. That’s why, even though I have 40 years of serious on-my-own western hunting experience under my belt, without hesitation I called my friend Gary “Goose” Howell of Flagstaff, Arizona (www.howellwildlifeoutfitters.com; 928-606-3021) and booked his services.

Goose has outfitted in this region for more than 20 years. Both he and I know that’s long enough to see the game change. He has adapted, and knows how to make his clients highly successful. So when he talks about what it takes to score on a trophy elk, I listen.

About Pre-Hunt Research…

you must scout hard before your hunt 448x285

Either you or the outfitter/guide you hire must scout and scout hard! Here guide Jon Vance, left, and outfitter Goose Howell are scouting, and making a game plan, prior to my Arizona elk hunt. (Photo by Bob Robb)

What Goose Howell says: It has become increasingly difficult to draw a top-quality, high-demand hunting permit on public land. It’s imperative to implement a plan and conduct your due diligence if you hope to be successful.

What Bob Robb says: Either a hunter must do all of the research and his own pre-scouting, or hire a qualified, experienced guide/outfitter to do the work for him. This is critical! Skipping this will lead you to certain failure and disappointment.

About Outfitters…

shot my bull one hour before dark at 27 steps 448x320

I shot my bull an hour before dark at 27 steps after building a small blind on a trail leading from a thick bedding area to a water source. (Photo by Bob Robb)

What Howell says: Even if you opt to hire an outfitter, you must make sure he knows and has successfully hunted that specific hunting unit, what class of trophies his clients have previously harvested there, and thus what you should expect the opportunity to harvest, given your goals, weapon proficiency and physical condition.

What Robb says: The importance of this cannot be overemphasized! It is also imperative that the outfitter and his guides are available to pre-scout everything and do everything for you, so you may make the most of your hunting opportunity.

About Your Odds…

my dream bull 7-8 years old 440x336

My dream bull was estimated at 7-8 years old and scored 361 Pope & Young points. (Photo by Bob Robb)

What Howell says: It has never been more difficult to draw a quality permit and then actually harvest a trophy-class animal on the hunt. It is highly competitive out there.

What Robb says: Even the experienced local hunter must put his time in to expect to have even a reasonable opportunity to see and harvest a trophy-class animal. For the nonresident tag holder it will be doubly difficult.

About the Demands of the Hunt…

What Howell says: Never forget that public land hunts require dedication on many levels. You must be in the best physical condition possible. You must be mentally tough. You must stick with your goal to harvest the best trophy possible, win, lose or draw. You must be qualified and proficient with your hunting weapon, and commit the time necessary to get the most out of your top-quality, high-demand hunt!

What Robb says: Just because you drew a great permit does not mean there’s anything automatic about harvesting a big trophy. To maximize your chances requires dedication and a well thought-out game plan.

guide and outfitter used havalon knives 292x448

It was no surprise in elk camp that both my guide and the outfitter used Havalon knives for all their caping and skinning chores! (Photo by Bob Robb)

And so, I hired Goose and began preparing myself and my gear. I added to my regular physical fitness regimen so that by opening day I would be able to go hard all day, every day, for the entire 14-day season, if necessary. I tuned two bows to shoot medium-weight Beman ICS 340 shafts tipped with 125-grain Thunderheads. By opening day I was dialed in. I juggled my work schedule so I had the whole season off.

The result? On day four, after being in the middle of several big bulls every day, I arrowed a 361″ monster at 27 steps. I also watched several nonresidents who had the same tag struggle mightily trying to hunt on their own. Because we scouted the unit hard before the season, we knew where the bulls were, and we had a game plan. My guide, Jon Vance, and I used Jon’s GPS to keep track of the ground we covered. In four days we hiked 48 miles. It was the best elk hunt of my life.

So, you can forget the mysteries and myths—the truth is that getting the tag is just the beginning. You must be willing to work harder and smarter than the other permit holders and their guides, or chances are the season will end and you’ll wonder what the heck happened.

Click here for more articles on elk hunting by Havalon’s pro’s.
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About Bob Robb

bob-robb-head-shotFor over two decades, Bob’s articles and photographs have appeared in most major outdoor magazines. Currently he is editor of Whitetail Journal and Predator Xtreme magazines. Bob was founding editor of Petersen’s Bowhunting magazines, and the author of many books, including The Field & Stream Bowhunting Handbook, and The Ultimate Guide to Elk Hunting.  Bob sees the value of super-sharp, lightweight Havalon knives.[hs_action id=”7638″]

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A Top Elk Hunter Confirms What A Top Elk Guide Says About…

Lessons from a Fly Fishing Guide

Posted on July 16, 2013 by HavalonKnives

By William Clunie

7 strategies that guarantee life-long fishing success.

When I first started guiding fly-fishing clients I thought I would be the one doing the teaching. After twelve years of guiding on the Androscoggin River in western Maine, I find that the experience has been one big fly fishing lesson for me, the guide.

bill cope with big smallmouth bass 336x392

Pennsylvania angler Bill Cope with a big smallmouth bass from Maine’s Androscoggin River.
(Photo by WIlliam Clunie)

Some anglers I’ve guided were new to the sport and needed instruction, but most had fished exotic places around the world and brought all that experience with them. The only real instruction I gave these expert anglers was where to catch the fish and, maybe, how to fish a certain piece of water. They taught me these seven critical lessons.

1.  Fly Fishing Requires Flexibility
The number-one thing that impresses me about knowledgeable anglers is an ability to be flexible. Like the swirling current, they are able to go with the flow and easily make changes where necessary. Their ability to constantly maintain an open mind to new ideas allows them to key in on fishing techniques that work in a variety of situations.

One well-traveled fellow, Pennsylvania angler Bill Cope, exemplified this flexible attitude to the extreme. After successfully fishing with me for one year Cope assumed the following year would be the same. After a few hours of failed angling using my tried-and-true method for catching huge smallmouth bass on top-water flies, Cope politely acknowledged my guiding abilities, but realized some changes were in order.

fly tying class at llbean 336x448

Taking a fly tying class, like this one at L. L. Bean in Freeport, Maine, gives anglers a certain edge for success. (Photo by WIlliam Clunie)

The veteran angler pulled a trick from his extensive bag of angling deceptions. He started switching flies at a rapid rate. He’d try one fly for a few casts and then snip that one off to tie on another until one streamer started working and he began hooking big fish. The only difference in the one fly that worked was a little bit of copper-colored flash added to the tail. By thinking outside the box, Cope started hauling in one fish after another.

Experienced anglers don’t get to this amazing level of angling by chance – just like a successful pro athlete, they practice with extreme intensity.

2.  Push Your Fly Fishing Skills
New fly-rod enthusiasts must constantly push their skill levels. Even experienced anglers understand that when their fishing ability settles in at a level of comfort, there is still room for improvement.

fly casting class at llbean 448x336

Another class at L. L. Bean in Freeport, Maine – this time it’s how to cast a fly rod. (Photo by WIlliam Clunie)

3.  Improve Your Cast
Casting lessons improve even the most experienced fly fisher. Each instructor views your technique from a different perspective and can tweak your individual rod-handling traits to enable you to get the most out of your angling experience.

4.  Know Aquatic Life
Seminars on aquatic life also enlarge a fly angler’s ability to reach higher performance levels. The more you know about the foods fish consume, the better prepared you are to adapt your offerings to the environment the fish live in.

5.  Fine-Tune Your Fly-Tying Ability
Taking classes on tying flies enlarges the knowledge base of anglers at all levels. It may be easier to purchase expertly tied flies, but tying your own pushes an angler up the learning curve. Full attention to every detail of every fly not only satisfies a creative urge, it also gives an angler a better understanding of how fish see and think.

clunie, kreh and montgomery on androscoggin river 448x336

Author William Clunie (center) with noted fly fishing instructor, Lefty Kreh (left) and his friend, King Montgomery (right), floating the Androscoggin River in Maine. (Photo by WIlliam Clunie)

6.  Look at Other Anglers as Teachers
Join a local fly-fishing club and have some fun exchanging techniques with like-minded fishing enthusiasts. Veteran anglers understand that fly fishing is an endless learning process. The best fly rodders around embrace the fact that they’ll never learn it all, and that being a willing student is the key to achieving a higher level of success on the water.

7.  Relax…
Fishing Should be Fun
Finally, even the most polished fly caster understands that sometimes fish just don’t cooperate. Throwing everything you know at them and coming up short is part of the game. Study hard, practice with intensity, but fish with a relaxed and open mind. After all, fishing should be fun and not some kind of driving, competitive angst. Catching the big one is a worthy goal, but learning that a fishless day can be satisfying assures lifelong angling pleasure.

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william clunie 336x352About William Clunie

A registered Maine master guide, outdoor writer, and nature photographer, author William Clunie is “living the dream” in the rugged mountains of Western Maine. He can be reached at: william.clunie@gmail.com.

Click here for more articles on fishing by Havalon’s experts.
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Spinnerbait – A Quick and Easy 3 Lesson Course

Posted on July 12, 2013 by HavalonKnives

By Bernie Barringer

Look No Further for the Best Bass Bait!

Best Bass Bait SpinnerbaitAs I reflect on 40-plus years of fishing with my five kids and my work as a part-time guide, a few things stand out. One of them is the fact that when we target bass or northern pike – bank on this – at least one person in the boat is using a spinnerbait.

In guiding, it’s common to have a novice angler in the boat, and when raising five kids who like to fish, well, “novice” just sort of goes without saying. Any rookie can fish a spinnerbait, and even the smallest child can cast one out and reel it back in. Plus, spinnerbaits flat out catch fish. I’m certain that if each of my kids would think back to the largest bass they caught, they would remember a spinnerbait in the fish’s mouth. In fact, probably seven of my personal top ten would be spinnerbait fish.

While the beauty of spinnerbait fishing is in its simplicity, there are a few things that can be done to fish it more effectively. Let me give you a basic course in “Spinnerbait 101.”  My syllabus covers the many variations in blade design, shape and color. Next time you hit the water, take your final exam. If you’ve been a good student of the spinnerbait, you should boat more bass.

Lesson One: Colorado vs. Willow Blades

Bass with spinnerbait

One of the best bass baits available, spinnerbaits catch fish consistently. Bass just can’t seem to let one go by.

Most spinnerbait fishing for bass is associated with some sort of weedy cover. Spinnerbait hooks are usually protected by the wire arm and the blade, making them more weedless than other lures. A dozen or more blade shapes and combination of shapes fall primarily into two categories – Colorado blades and willow leaf blades. Colorado blades offer more resistance, more lift and more vibration. Willow leaf blades offer less lift and resistance so they can be fished faster and deeper. They also offer more flash and vibrate at a higher frequency.

One of the most popular combinations offers a small Colorado blade in front of a large willow leaf blade. This offers an appealing combination of flash and vibration.

These two designs make the spinnerbait a great “search” lure. Generally when the water is cooler a Colorado blade fished slowly will be more productive. When the water is warmer I’ll go with the willow leaf blade and fish fast to cover more water, trying to locate active fish. Then I may go back through the area again with a slower presentation for fish that aren’t quite as aggressive.

The Colorado blade is also great for heavy cover. Buzz it just below the surface over the tops of weeds, and when the bait comes to an opening, just lower the rod tip and stop reeling. The bait will flutter down into the opening in thick weed cover, while the blade “helicopters” in a tantalizing way.

Mack’s Lur Company has come out with a spinnerbait that offers a wing-shaped mylar blade specifically designed for this type of fishing. It’s called the Stan’s Spin after its designer, bass fishing great Stan Fagerstrom. Nothing beats it for fishing holes in weedbeds.

Lesson Two: Color Effectiveness

Great Bass Bait

Anyone can use a spinnerbait. It’s a great bait choice for bass fishing with novice anglers and youth.

When choosing the color of a spinnerbait keep in mind that most bass will see the bait moving along above them, silhouetted against the sky. As a general rule it is a good idea to choose dark colors on dark days and bright colors on bright days. This might seem opposite to what you would think, but blacks and dark browns have better visibility from below when they are against a background of white or gray cloud cover. Conversely, a dark blue sky would swallow up a dark color, but a white or chartreuse will show up well.

Also keep water clarity in mind when choosing colors. In clear water, I like to use colors that match the natural forage. If the forage tends to be perch, I like to use a fire tiger because of the orange and greens. Shad forage would call for something with silvers and whites. Think of this as the bass fishing version of “matching the hatch.”

When the water is murky or stained, choosing colors is all about visibility. Bright-range chartreuse and yellow are good choices. The bass will be attracted by the vibration, but good visibility means once they get within range, high-vis colors will trigger more strikes.

Lesson Three: Size Matters

Bernie Barringer with Smallmouth Bass

Not only do these baits catch largemouth bass, but smallmouth bass can’t seem to resist them either.

The three most common spinnerbait weights are ¼-, ⅜- and ½-ounce sizes. The ⅜-ounce is the most versatile, but I often use a ½-ounce if I want to fish it deeper, or need fire it out there like a bullet against a stiff wind.

The smaller sizes allow you to keep the bait near the surface for fishing over the tops of weeds or weaving your way through the lily pads. For fast fishing, the 3/8-ounce is the way to go. I often use spinnerbaits to fish parallel to a deep weedline and that’s when the ½-ounce size is perfect. It allows me to make a long cast, count the bait down, and reel just fast enough to keep the blade turning on its way back to the boat. It’s hard to beat a large Colorado blade for this presentation.

Like most kinds of fishing, spinnerbait fishing can be as simple or as complicated as you want to make it. Anyone can cast the bait out and reel it in; it doesn’t get much simpler than that, so it’s the perfect bait for a novice or a child. Yet, if you want to make it more sophisticated, you can delve into blade sizes, shapes and colors. And you can fish it in a variety of ways, some of which take some skill and practice to perfect.

The spinnerbait may not imitate anything in nature that a bass would normally eat, but then it doesn’t have to. The bait has flash, vibration, color – all the triggering features that cause a bass to strike it out of instinct. It’s just my opinion, but it’s hard to deny that these features make the spinnerbait the best bass bait.

See more bass fishing articles here. 

Bernie Barringer Bass Fishing.Bernie Barringer hunts a variety of species in several states and Canadian provinces. He has published more than 400 articles in two dozen outdoor magazines and authored ten books on hunting, fishing and trapping. The latest is Bear Baiter’s Manual. He is the managing editor of Bear Hunting Magazine, and blogs his hunts on his website www.bowhuntingroad.com.

 

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