Mule Deer – 4 Things Matter When You’re Gunning Up

by Ron Spomer

Tempted to go after those big, blocky, bouncing western muleys? Think about the shootin’ iron you’ll use.

a hefty mule deer in mountain brush_edited-448x299

A hefty mule deer in mountain foothills brush. Although slightly larger than whitetails, mule deer are not super tough. Standard whitetail cartridges will handle them nicely, but flat shooting cartridges handle the open country best.

The whitetail was, is and always will be the most commonly hunted big game animal in North America. Yep – we can all agree on that. But mule deer tempt most ardent whitetail hunters to venture west for an adventure. When planning that western mule deer hunt, just which rifles and cartridges will you need?

Any legal firearm will make the kill. Yes, any will suffice for handling mule deer, which on average are slightly larger than whitetails, but by no means invincible. Plenty have been taken cleanly over the years with .30-30s and other cartridges today’s hunters think are underpowered. (Even a .22 rimfire – not that it’s legal – will take down a big game animal.)

So, does that mean any gun will do? Not quite. Before deciding, here’s what to consider:

  1. The shooter matters – Long-range rifles and cartridges are useless unless the shooter actually practices with them enough to be 100 percent reliable at those long ranges. So find a place where you can shoot to 300, 400 and even 500 yards. Then practice. A lot. If it turns out you’re only steady enough for 300-yard work, a relatively flat-shooting rifle/cartridge is still a smart idea because it maximizes your hit potential. Why struggle to compensate for slow bullet drop and wind deflection if you don’t need to?

    ron spomer with alberta mule deer 2008 448x313

    The author took this buck from 280 yards with a plain Jane .30-06 in a Remington M700 firing 150-grain
    Swift A-Frame bullets.

  2. The caliber and bullet matter – Rather than detail every specific caliber, here is the range of calibers that make good long-range mule deer medicine, from smallest to largest:
    • .243 Winchester: A bit small, but more than capable of terminating a big buck to 300 yards, perhaps 400 yards in the right hands. A 90- to 100-grain, controlled-expansion bullet such as Barnes TTSX, Swift A-Frame, Federal Trophy Bonded or Copper, Winchester Power Max Bonded, Hornady Interlock or Nosler Accubond is capable of reaching the vitals from any angle. For explosive destruction of heart and lungs, try a traditional cup-and-core bullet like the Nosler Ballistic Tip, Sierra Spitzer Boattail or Berger VLD (Very Low Drag). If you can wait for and deliver the perfect behind the shoulder broadside shot, a 70- to 90-grain varmint bullet (hollow point, Blitz King, etc.) can be devastating. This applies to larger calibers, too, but bullet selection is more critical in the smaller calibers.

      various mags 7RM-7Wby-300WM-300Wby 299x448

      The 7mm Remington Mag, 7mm Weatherby Mag, 300 Winchester Mag and 300 Weatherby Mag are great long range cartridges for long range mule deer shooting in windy country, but smaller rounds also work well. There’s no need to endure more recoil than you appreciate.

    • .25-06 Remington & .257 Weatherby Magnum: Both are amazing open-country mule deer rounds capable of taking down the biggest buck to 500 yards. The slightly faster .257 Weatherby may be the ultimate for big plains country. Use a 120-grain bullet to minimize wind deflection.
    • .260 Remington, 6.5 Creedmoor, 6.5-284 Norma: Any of these hot .264 calibers are ideal for mule deer. Even the lower velocity ones can fire 140-grain bullets with such high ballistic coefficient ratings that they’ll deliver the goods at 500 yards. Recoil is next to nothing.
    • .270 Winchester, .270 WSM and .270 Weatherby Magnum: A bit more recoil than you get from the 6.5s. Long range punch and reach are similar. With 130-grain to 140-grain bullets, the .27 calibers will bring home the venison.
    • 7mm-08 Remington and .280 Remington: Running neck-and-neck with the .270s, these are less popular but just as capable. The 7mm-08 is ideal for recoil sensitive shooters. It has more than sufficient power out to 500 yards.
    • 7mm Remington Magnum (and its friends):  Any 7mm magnum spitting out 140- to 175-grain bullets at 3,000 fps or slightly faster can’t be beat for this job!

      bolt action rifles are ideal for mule deer 299x448

      Bolt action rifles are ideal for mule deer hunting. Light, trim, accurate and chambered for virtually any flat shooting cartridge you care to use.

    • .30-06:  An oldie but a goodie. Study the ballistics of this classic round and you’ll be amazed to discover it runs neck-and-neck with the .270 Win and .280 Rem and darn close to even the .7mm Rem. Mag. Optimum may be 165-grain VLD bullets.
    • .300 magnums:  More power than absolutely necessary, but if you can handle the recoil and shoot them accurately, you’ll have no worries. Try 150-grain bullets for flattest trajectories, 180- to 200-grain BTSP for least wind deflection.
  3. The rifle matters – The classic platform for any of these cartridges is a bolt-action. Sturdy, durable, compact and light, bolt actions can be most easily tuned for extreme accuracy and long range. With a bit of practice you can learn to shoot them quickly and accurately. Do it right and you rarely need more than one shot.
    get closer to mule deer long range before trying a shot 336x443

    Hunters often spot mule deer at extreme range. Sneak closer and get them off the skyline before trying a shot. Practicing at 300 to 500 yards back home pays big dividends when the moment of truth arrives.

    4. Knowing what matters, matters – Killing power isn’t the concern with mule deer rifles so much as reach and accuracy. Because mule deer are often spotted across hundreds of yards of open prairie or vast mountain valleys, rifles that can deliver a bullet within four inches of point-of-aim out to 500 yards are most useful. Believe me, if you earn your one-and-only shooting opportunity at extreme range after five days of hard hunting, you’re going to want to take it. If you use the right rifle, cartridge and bullet – and you properly prepare – you can do it.

If you haven’t the desire or funds for a new rifle, just bring your standard whitetail gun even if it’s a pump, autoloader or lever-action. Investigate new high performance ammunition and the sleekest bullets to increase your velocity and long-range reach. Most critically, practice shooting far in open country, especially in the wind. It’s often windy in mule deer country, and the hunter who knows how to compensate for the deflecting power of wind is way ahead of the curve. If you shoot a bullet with less-than-ideal velocity, knowing your bullet’s trajectory curve will compensate nicely.

Click here to read more great articles by Ron Spomer.

***

ron-spomer-160x139About Ron Spomer

Ron is rifles/optics columnist for Sporting Classics and North American Hunter magazines and host of Winchester World of Whitetail on NBC Sports. Learn more at (www.ronspomeroutdoors.com)[hs_action id=”8272″]

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Why Deer Think You Stink, Part 2

… And 4 Things You Can Do About It.

by Steve Sorensen

What you can do to take care of scent at the source.
We’ve talked about the three main sources of odor a hunter (or anyone) produces – sweat, skin cells, and mouth. Now we need to figure out how to get control of them.

you dont need special shower products 448x299

You may not need special brand-name hunting products to shower with, but you need to use something, and they’re not expensive.

First, shower before you hunt. Don’t worry about a little grease under your fingernails from that last D-I-Y oil change – that’s not the big problem. Your challenge is twofold. (1.) Wash away the bacteria that has been partying on your body. And (2.) create conditions on your body that are inhospitable to the growth of new bacteria. How do you do that? Lather up real good with anti-bacterial soap. Without scent added. Think of your skin after your shower as a desert—nothing’s growing there.

Second, realize that you’ll start shedding skin cells as soon as you towel off. You need to stop that. An anti-bacterial body lotion will help a lot. It will moisturize the skin that has just been dried by soap, and keep those dead skin cells hanging on a little longer instead of channeling down your sleeves and sprinkling out like salt on French fries everywhere you go. Again, use a product with no scent added.

Third, brush your teeth, and your tongue, and the inside of your cheeks. Do it as far back as you can go—test your gag reflex with the toothbrush. Use a non-alcoholic mouthwash. Exhaled air contains an enormous volume of gases, and they’ll drift wherever the air currents take them—so make those gases less threatening. Eat something fresh and natural. Chew a mild, minty, sugar-free gum. (Sugar just feeds more bacteria in your mouth.) Or take some apple slices with you into the woods and keep one in your mouth as much as you can.

brushing keeps odors down 448x229

This toothpaste might not be the only kind that works to reduce your mouth odor, but brushing your teeth is imperative, even if you do it with
baking soda.

These three steps will go a long way toward putting you in control of the scent your body produces. And that’s important, because unless you do all three, you’re not fully addressing the sources of scent. You WILL get noticed by deer.

Fourth, make sure your hunting clothes are clean. To those guys who say they don’t wash their clothing the entire season, I say “Good.” Why? Because if they’re hunting in the area I hunt, a nice buck might run into me while avoiding them.

Never fail to wash your hunting clothes. Use baking soda, or one of those fancy odor-eliminating detergents. If you can’t easily wash your outerwear, let it air out in the outdoors and switch off between two sets.

Now that you’ve addressed human odor at the point of origin, and covered your body with clean clothing washed in scent-free detergent, other techniques can now be effective. None of this has cost much, and it lays the foundation for investing in the expensive gear that fights human scent if that’s what you want to do.

use deodorant to suppress odor 448x399

Baking soda is known to keep body odor down, but it can’t hurt to use a stick deodorant designed to suppress body odor.

Clothing impregnated with activated charcoal can tie up the odor molecules that come off our bodies. Silver, a natural anti-microbial, woven into clothing can do the same. Cover your scent by storing your clothes in a bag or an air-tight tub with dirt from under your treestand if you want. Chew chlorophyll gum. Various sprays using charcoal, baking soda, colloidal silver and secret mystery ingredients are supposed to lock up human scent, and I don’t doubt they do—but all of these products will do a much better job if you start by making it a small job for them.

Most hunters are interested in anything that gives them an advantage over the deer’s most valuable defense – his nose. Certainly nothing works miracles, and even all these steps won’t beat the deer’s nose all the time because a deer’s ability to smell is truly remarkable.

Don’t forget the biggest piece to the scent-control puzzle. You must still overcome the wind. For that, only one thing works all the time. Only one thing always beat the deer’s nose. A deer can’t smell you if you’re downwind. Like I was from my cologne-up hunting buddy those many years ago. You may not nuzzle a buck, but getting within 20 yards won’t be a problem.

If you missed Part 1 of this blog, just click here.

***

steve-sorensen-head-shotAbout Steve Sorensen

Outdoor writer and speaker Steve Sorensen writes an award-winning newspaper column called The Everyday Hunter®, and is the editor of the Havalon Sportsman’s Post. He is the author of Growing Up With Guns. Invite Steve to speak at your next sportsman’s event, and follow him at www.EverydayHunter.com.[hs_action id=”8244″]

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4 Reasons Deer Think You Stink, Part 1

…. And What You Can Do About It

by Steve Sorensen

Do you know how badly you… yes, I’ll say it… stink?
Visions of me nuzzling a big whitetail buck flickered in my wife’s head.

I had just opened a package one of those brown trucks had just dropped off. In it was a tube of toothpaste formulated to control a hunters mouth odor. “How close do you think you’re going to get to a deer?” she asked.

famous hunter teddy roosevelt 336x398

This famous hunter was the 26th President of the United States. He and his predecessors in the hunting world didn’t smell like roses.

“Um,” I paused, my mind racing through a whole bunch of stuff she could have been thinking. “Maybe 20 yards.” I added, “But deer can smell you a lot farther away than that.”

“I don’t believe that,” she said.

I can’t blame her, but the truth is lots of hunters act as though they don’t believe it either. I remember hiking up a hill behind a hunting buddy years ago, and he smelled like the cologne counter at Macy’s. Once his stench filled my nostrils, I had to stay upwind of him. I probably don’t need to tell you this, but we never saw a deer that day.

My wife’s opinion is that scent control products are a round-up of gimmicks made for gullible nimrods. (Definition, nimrod: 1. In the Old Testament, great-grandson of Noah, a hunter. 2. A person regarded as silly, foolish, or stupid.)

She’s right about some of them. Some gimmicks are a complete waste. (She’s right that some nimrods are, too, but that’s another subject.)

Hunters have always been aware that deer can smell us. And contrary to what my wife thinks, deer have proven that they can smell us as much as a quarter mile away.

perspiration odor is deer repellant 448x299

This isn’t an embarrassing underarm stain. It’s deer repellent.

Old-time nimrods Theodore Roosevelt, Philip Tome, Daniel Boone and other pioneer hunters did pretty well without access to a Cabela’s catalog of must-have scent-control concoctions. And when I think of those old-timers, I think they must have stunk, even worse than yours truly on my worst day.

So why, exactly, do we stink? At least three reasons.

Sweat—You might have heard that our sweat is odorless. That’s true, but it’s not true for long. All organisms need suitable habitat, and sweat provides a habitat where microscopic bacteria can grow. It’s no secret that these tiny organisms thrive in dark, damp places. Humans cover our skin with clothing (well, most of us still do anyway), and even breathable clothing holds moisture against our skin.

shedding skin cells 448x299

Do you doubt you’re shedding skin cells? Scratch your skin—those white marks are thousands of dead skin cells that you’ll soon shed.

So there you have it—the first condition the bacteria needs. As perspiration oozes out our pores one molecule at a time, a few bacteria collect there. Soon, it’s partytime. It can get wild and rank. There’s plenty to drink, and guess who’s serving the hors d’oeuvres? You are!

Skin—You already know that we constantly shed skin cells, but did you know that’s what the bacteria dine on. As they nibble on our dead skin cells and the organic wastes in our perspiration, they produce their own wastes—and that’s what creates most body odor. And with all the eating and drinking that’s going on, there’s something unmentionable that’s going on, too. Yep—the surface of your skin is a rut zone for bacteria.

duct tape won't work for mouth odor 448x299

Duct tape has lots of uses, but scent control isn’t one of them.

Mouth—And then there’s your mouth odor. Although the old-timers didn’t have specialized toothpaste, mouthwash and mints, somehow they killed enough deer to keep body and soul together. Maybe standing in the smoke from their campfires tended to kill the microscopic critters that cause people to stink—but they certainly didn’t inhale the smoke. Maybe cigars, but not smoke from the campfire. One wonders how they ever got close enough to be sociable.

Clothing—Some guys say they don’t wash their clothing the entire season. That’s a mistake. Why? Because you’re adding your own odor to your clothes from the inside each time you wear them. And airborne odors are coming into contact with your clothes from the outside, and getting trapped there. Do you doubt that? Let me put it into mathematical form:

Clean body + Clean clothing = Minimal odor in the airspace around you.

Clean body + Dirty clothing = Dirty body and dirty airspace around you.

There are more sources of human scent, but these are the big ones. So, what can modern hunters do to eliminate the smells that come from these three sources? Nothing. You can’t eliminate them. But you can reduce them significantly. That’s what we’ll talk about next.

***

steve-sorensen-head-shotAbout Steve Sorensen

Outdoor writer and speaker Steve Sorensen writes an award-winning newspaper column called The Everyday Hunter®, and is the editor of the Havalon Sportsman’s Post. He is the author of Growing Up With Guns. Invite Steve to speak at your next sportsman’s event, and follow him at www.EverydayHunter.com.[hs_action id=”7771″]

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Where to Find 3 Exciting Rut Hunting Stand Sites

By Bernie Barringer

A public land hunter tells you how to find
the spots most hunters overlook.  

buck shot in 2010 in Iowa 336x411

I shot this old buck in 2010 on public land in Iowa. I moved several times until I landed on the exact right location where a river swept up close to a steep hill.

All serious whitetail hunters live for that magical time of the year; those three weeks in November when the most amazing things can happen at any moment. Bucks are on their feet at all hours of the day or night. Core areas and home ranges become meaningless as the mature males of the species pant and sweat and grind out the hours, searching for receptive females in a frantic effort to procreate during this short period of frenzied rutting activity.

You wait for this window of opportunity all year. Don’t spend it in the wrong spot.

Some spots are obvious and hunters gravitate to these well-known locations. But some spots aren’t so easy to see. Consider hunting one of these three great stand sites that most hunters overlook.

google earth view of bend in river against bluff 448x277

Google Earth screen capture—an outside bend in a river
up against a bluff.

1.  River Bends
In Iowa a couple of years ago, I killed a 6-year-old buck on public land on the 12th day of what was intended to be a seven-day hunt. On the fifth day of the hunt I found sign from a lot of deer activity on the outside of a large, sweeping river bend. Once in a stand, I began to see deer movement including one nice shooter buck. However, most of the movement was out of range, so I had to adjust a couple times. Twice over the next few days I moved my stand about 100 yards before I settled on the exact spot where I killed him. The outside bend of a river swept up against a steep bluff, which funneled the deer movement into a narrow corridor where I scored.

Deer, like all animals take the path of least resistance when travelling. They are looking for places that it is easy to walk and that’s where the trails develop. This was a perfect place to intercept a cruising buck because it very naturally channeled the deer movement into a narrow area, an area I could easily cover with a treestand in the right spot.

google earth shows jumpers 448x277

Google Earth screen capture—lots of jumpers in this picture.

2.  Jumpers
I lucked onto the type of location I call “jumpers.” I happened to see a buck come out of the tip of a draw 100 yards away when I was sitting in a treestand in a bushy fencerow. I rattled at him, but after a short look, he crossed the top of the hill and entered the point of a draw on the other side. After that morning’s hunt, I walked over there and was surprised to see a series of rubs and a small trail with several sets of big tracks in it. I realized that it was a perfect place for a buck to jump from one drainage to another with minimal exposure. This ideal shortcut left him exposed for only a few seconds.

google earth shows field corner 448x277

Google Earth screen captures show good examples of the overlooked stand site. This one is obviously a field corner.

Frankly, not many people hunt these places I came to identify as “jumpers,” but they can be absolutely dynamite if you find one in the right spot. These drainages are referred to as hollows, ditches, draws or ravines—depending on the local jargon—where an arm of one ravine reaches out into a field near where an arm of an adjacent ravine comes out. These are crossing points for deer moving from one to the other, and bucks check them when cruising for receptive does.

Looking at an aerial photo will give you plenty of these to check out, but you must get a personal up-close look to find the good ones. Most will have little to no sign, but when you find the one the bucks really like to use, you will know it. Rubs, tracks and often a scrape or two will be the tip-off that you are in the right spot.

field corners great place for decoy 448x299

Field corners often have a tractor trail through them, which give you more visibility. Field corners are also great locations to place a decoy where bucks can see them from a distance.

3.  Field Corners
In keeping with the theme that bucks do not like to expose themselves in the open any more than is absolutely necessary, field corners are another overlooked stand site. These are basic and simple locations, easy to identify on an aerial photo or a topographical map. Heck, you can even see them from the road many times.

We are talking about the square corner of an open field that has woods on at least two sides of it. Because they do not like to expose themselves, bucks will stay just inside the woods as they travel around the corner. This creates a pinch point that concentrates the travel, upping your odds of being within range of a buck by funneling their activity into a small area.

chris dunkin shot this buck coming from ravine 442x336

My friend Chris Dunkin shot this tremendous buck as it exited the arm of a ravine. Finding the perfect set in a “jumper” put him within range of a buck of a lifetime.

Interestingly, these places can have lots of sign or little to no sign and it doesn’t seem to make much difference during the rut. For some reason, I have seen these areas all torn up with rubs and scrapes or, on the other end of the spectrum, maybe just a very faint trail. The amount of sign in these areas seems to have no relation to the amount of travel they get when the bucks get on their feet and begin cruising.  Some of these are really good and don’t have the sign to prove it.

Conclusion
Because I hunt mostly public lands which receive a lot of pressure from other hunters, I have found that the most obvious funnels, pinch points and areas with rutting sign get so much attention that the bucks soon learn to avoid them. If you learn to look for those less obvious points that concentrate the travel of cruising bucks, you can take advantage of not only the rut movement, but the tendencies of bucks to avoid the other hunters. This will help you put yourself in a much better position to bag a big one.

To read more great articles by Bernie Barringer, click here.

***

About Bernie Barringer

Bernie BaringerBernie Barringer hunts a variety of species in several states and Canadian provinces. He has published more than 400 articles in two dozen outdoor magazines and authored ten books on hunting, fishing and trapping. The latest is Bear Baiter’s Manual. He is the managing editor of Bear Hunting Magazine, and blogs his hunts on his website www.bowhuntingroad.com.[hs_action id=”7476″]

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How To Maintain Your Optics

by Ron Spomer

Our optics expert’s 4-step process to cleaning lenses.

Congratulations on buying that expensive new binocular, spotting scope or riflescope. Your world is looking brighter already. Keep it that way.

If You’re Not Getting Them Dirty, You’re Not Using Them

lens covers keep snow off 448x299

Use lens covers when snow or rain is heavy.

Optical maintenance isn’t difficult, but it is important. One coarse mistake can take the shine off the best lenses. This tempts many of us to leave our optics covered up. Cases, lids, padded jackets. Nothing wrong with those UNLESS they prevent us from using our instruments. Everyone’s eager to peel the covers off a rifle scope and whip it into action, but opening a case, pulling out a binocular, taking off objective lens covers, opening eyepiece covers – it’s easier to skip the whole exercise.

Those protective accessories can actually be impediments to using your optics, so stack them carefully in the original packaging and store them in the closet. Your binocular is going hunting. I will permit you to keep eyepiece covers on if they pop or flip off easily. You’ll have time to do that and still get the binocular up to peruse a suspicious object at the slightest provocation.

How Lenses Get Dirty

clean your smeared lens carefully 448x299

If you discover a lens has finger prints on it, take a moment to get rid of them. Left on the lens, oils from your skin can permanently etch some lens coatings.

Eyepiece lenses, riding there below your chin, are the most likely to get dirty or scratched, catching every drip off your nose and crumb from your sandwich. The objective lenses, recessed as they are and hanging face down, are well protected from rain and snow and even errant branches.

Feel free to keep lens caps on spotting scopes or wrap them in those zip-open jackets. Setting up a spotter is such an event that you aren’t likely to skip it because of an extra step or two.

I invariably carry rifle scopes “in the raw” on the theory that I don’t want to be fumbling with lens covers when my buck of a lifetime leaps up. (This will never happen, but my dream persists.) It makes sense to keep a quick release cover on at least the eyepiece lens. Scope covers keep snow and rain off, too.

Despite your best efforts, dust, dirt, finger prints and debris foul your lenses. Don’t panic. You can freak out if you want, but the better idea is to clean things up and sin no more.

You Don’t Have To Baby Them

selection of lens cleaning items 448x299

Every optics user ought to put together a kit that contains a selection of lens cleaning items. It will be more useful than the lens covers that come with your optics.

The good news is that today’s lenses are tough and resilient. Many are coated with extremely hard substances that protect them, resist scratching and even repel external fogging. They clean up nicely, but only if you do it correctly. And that means carefully. With a light touch. Not with your glove, pant leg, sandpaper or dirty handkerchief.

Nor gasoline. Okay, I’m being facetious. But to make a point. Lenses should be cleaned with soft, clean cloth or tissue designed for eye glasses and camera lenses. Those microfiber cloths are perfect, but keep them clean.

A quick and easy lens cleaning process:

  1. Shake off the gravel. Really. Tip lenses down. Blow across them. Dust with a camelhair brush. The idea is to remove the harshest debris. Sand is not nice to glass.
  2. Moisten the glass. The old hot breath trick is fine, but so is spit. Really. It’s not the best, but it’s okay if you don’t have a mouthful of popcorn or caramel and you dry up the spit with that soft cloth. Official lens cleaning fluid is better. Those pre-moistened lens cleaning cloths in the foil packs are great. The idea behind the moisture is to liquefy any dried-on gunk so it can be lifted and absorbed off the surface with the cloth, instead of being ground in, which brings us to…
  3. DON’T GRIND! Actually a soft cotton shirt tail isn’t the worst cleaning cloth IF it’s not contaminated with sand and if you sweep it over the glass delicately, absorbing the moisture.
  4. Repeat. Moisten, absorb, moisten, absorb. Two to ten light sequences of this are better than one traditional grind and polish. Elbow grease is great for polishing steel pots and pans. Not glass lenses.
q-tips come in handy for lens cleaning 448x299

Keep some common Q-tips handy. Using one will let you focus on the dirty spots and reach crevices that collect dirt.

Clean in this fashion every time you detect spots or smudges on lenses. Salts, oils and even rainwater can etch permanent imperfections in some lenses if left on too long.

Optical instruments are built so watertight and durably that little else besides basic external cleaning is needed. Use cotton-tips or a cloth-covered toothpick to clean dirt and oily dust from crevices, especially around moving wheels and dials. Don’t let dust built up under eyepiece cups. Flex binoculars at hinges to reach greasy debris there.

That’s all the more maintenance you’re required to do to keep your optics running smoothly and shining brightly for a lifetime.

Click here to read more great articles by Ron Spomer.

***

Blog Author, Ron Spomer.About Ron Spomer

Ron is rifles/optics columnist for Sporting Classics and North American Hunter magazines and host of Winchester World of Whitetail on NBC Sports. Learn more at (www.ronspomeroutdoors.com)[hs_action id=”7771″]

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