Bass Fishing Tips: How Would a Pro Bass Angler Fish Your Home Lake?

By Bernie Barringer

A short course for approaching new water will help you look at local lakes with fresh eyes.

All fishermen have their honey holes. You know – those spots you go back to over and over because they always seem to produce. It’s like we fish our memories. But did you ever wonder what it would be like to approach the lake from a completely new perspective?

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Use these tips and look at what you can catch! (Bernie Barringer photo)

If you fished the lake for the very first time, how would you approach it? And here’s the real burning question: If a pro bass angler came to your lake without any knowledge of it, would he find a honey hole you didn’t know about; one that was there all the time? Chances are he would.

Bass use different areas at different times of the year. That’s why you can catch fish after fishing one spot, but a couple weeks later you can’t buy a single bite at that spot. Even the best honey holes have peak times when they’re good, and times when they’re as barren as the Sahara Desert.

Chad Foster is an up-and-coming bass pro who grew up fishing the hundreds of lakes of North Central Minnesota. He now lives in St. Cloud, Florida working his way up the ranks as a professional bass fisherman. I chatted with him about fishing in unknown waters, and he offered up some of his best bass fishing tips. How would he approach fishing a lake he has never seen before? His answers are truly revealing. His approach on how to fish for bass in new water will help you look at your lake with fresh eyes!

Structure and Cover
“The first thing to look at is what kind of cover and structure is available,” he told me. “It will be different depending on whether it’s a river, reservoir or natural lake. It’s also going to be different based on water clarity. You’ll have good weed cover out to 15 feet or more in clear lakes, but lakes with murky water may not have weeds below 5 five feet. If that’s the case, the bass will be relating to hard cover such as logs, rocks and other objects in the water.”

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If bass like these are in your home water, you can find them.
(Bernie Barringer photo)

Time of Year
But the most important factor in determining how to fish for bass is the time of the year and the water temperature associated with it. “You need to know if the fish are in pre-spawn, post-spawn summer or fall patterns. You can eliminate a lot of water by finding that out.”

Eliminate Water
This is a huge part of finding fish.To “eliminate water” means to know where the fish will not be. Foster claims that’s a lot easier than just going to find some fish. For example, in the early spring, bass will look for the warmest water of the lake, so you can eliminate cold water.

“When the water gets above 50 degrees, the males will move into the back bays, looking for the warmest water they can find. The females will be on the first piece of structure just outside those spawning areas. That may be emerging weeds, a drop-off, a rock pile, hump or whatever.”  To find these larger females Foster likes to use a bait that covers water, such as a Rat-L-Trap, crankbait or spinnerbait. Bass tend to be schooled, so once he catches a fish, he slows down and thoroughly fishes the area with Outkast Pro Swim Jig or a plastic worm.

Water Depth
“When the water gets into the 60s, bass will be quite shallow as the spawn starts, although I’ve seen bass bedded in ten feet or more. Often you can fish a jig, a worm or a Senko across these flats and catch spawning bass, even though you won’t know if they’re on beds or not.”  The shallow bass are relating to cover such as wood or reeds, and can be caught on spinnerbaits.

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What looks like open water isn’t necessarily open water under the surface. (Bernie Barringer photo)

Where Structure Is Important – and When
“Structure is most important after the spawn,” he says. “The fish can be found on the first main piece of structure outside the spawning area.” The weeds are growing quickly so that’s a good place to try, as is any major irregularity in the bottom such as a hump or steep break. These fish are feeding heavily while they recover from the spawn. Foster suggests you fish these spots with slow presentations such as a drop shot rig, an Outkast RXT jig with pork, or a Carolina rig. Look specifically for small spots on large structures – inside turns in weedlines, or a rockpile on a point. These places can be great honey holes every year at this time.

Weeds
By summer, weeds are a big part of the location puzzle and can affect how to fish in certain areas. “Coontail, cabbage and milfoil all hold fish, but I have found that the largest bass tend to be found in isolated clumps of weeds off the main weedbed. They’re feeding on bluegills, crappies or whatever bait forage is in the lake.” He says that a clump of weeds on a point or hump can hold some of the largest fish of the lake and they will often be there for weeks. “During the hottest part of the summer, like when the water reaches 80 degrees, bass will often back into the thickest weeds they find to ambush prey and often seek shade in lily pads or under docks.”

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These tips to approaching unfamiliar water are helping Chad Foster move up the ranks in the pro bass fishing circuit. (Bernie Barringer photo)

Where Bass Move
Fall brings new challenges, and how to fish with these challenges can be difficult. “Bass can be about anywhere in the fall. They can be suspended over deep water chasing baitfish in the open, or they can be back to the shallows. They tend to spread out in the fall so you have to cover a lot of water. Once you find them, you may find a lot of them. They are often in huge schools.”

Cover More Water
He suggests you use horizontal baits he calls “search baits” such as crankbaits that allow you to cover a lot of water. When you find a school of fish you can slow down, but for the most part, these fish are actively feeding before winter so whatever you put in front of them gets eaten. That’s why you should use a bait that spends a lot of time at their depth.

Foster’s short course on how and where to find fish will tell you why the bass may be here today and gone tomorrow. Use his bass fishing tips on your home lake and you’ll add some new honey holes to your list. The fish are still out there and you now have a better idea where to look and how to fish for them.

Have a taste for more than just bass? Click here.


Bernie Barringer Bass Fishing.About Bernie Barringer

Bernie Barringer is a lifelong angler who has competed in professional walleye tournaments. He enjoys fishing for all species and writing about his experiences for many outdoor magazines.


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6 Places You’ll Always Find Catfish

By Keith “Catfish” Sutton

The “where-to” for reeling in big catfish.

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The fast water immediately below a dam attracts lots of catfish with the promise of an easy meal. Trophy catches, like this big channel cat, are common when water flow is ideal. (Photo by Keith Sutton)

Rivers, lakes and ponds contain many catfish hot spots. If you’re lucky, you can randomly pick a spot, cast your bait and start reeling in cats. But most of us aren’t so lucky. For consistent success, we need more information. We need to know where, specifically, hungry cats are likely to be. Having fished for catfish in 38 states and 2 Canadian provinces, I can tell you where you’ll find them.

Among the best places are the following six structures where whiskered fish gather like kids ’round an ice-cream truck, gobbling every morsel that passes by.

1. Tailraces

Catfish congregate in dam tailraces to feed on abundant forage animals. Their numbers increase during the spring pre-spawn period when upstream migrations are blocked. During summer, another influx of cats moves from oxygen-poor areas downstream to oxygen-rich water below the dam.

Most tailrace anglers fish from shore. Long upstream casts put the bait into “grooves” of slower-moving water between open gates for a productive drift. Other catters motor to a safe, legal distance from the dam and fish from a boat. Either way, chances are excellent for hooking cats of all kinds.

2. Outside River Bends

Rivers follow the path of least resistance. When hard bottom obstructs the flow, the river changes direction, forming a hard-bottomed outside bend with current. These bends are catfish honey holes where the river gouges and undercuts the bank. The undercut ledge or lip offers natural seclusion to cats waiting for a meal.

Trees growing on the bend topple due to erosion. This creates an additional hot spot where hungry cats find plentiful forage and eager anglers can catch lots of fish. If a deep-water pool lies just downstream, productivity increases even more.

3. Bottom Channels

Some rivers and lakes have prominent bottom channels; others have subtle drops and ledges. All such structures are cat magnets you can pinpoint using a fish-finder.

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Banks covered with riprap – rocks that help prevent erosion – almost always harbor numerous catfish. Fishing near the big boulder produced multiple catches for these anglers. (Photo by Keith Sutton)

Main channels act like highways, leading migrating catfish from one part of the water body to another. Small branches act as secondary roads, leading migratory fish toward shallow-water habitat. Trophy cats usually stay near deep water falling into the channel. Look for them near features such as brush piles, points, adjacent humps, cuts in the bank, etc. In addition to outside turns of channel bends, big catfish also like channel junctions and deep channel edges near dams.

During the day, anchor in the shallowest water near the drop-off and fish deeper water. At night, do the opposite to catch cats moving shallow to feed.

4. Riprap

Engineers often place large rocks along shorelines to prevent erosion. This riprap usually is near dams, bridges and causeways. These rocks appeal to catfish because they attract forage animals like crawfish and shad and provide cover, depth and shade.

When fishing a long, look-alike stretch of riprap, focus on objects distinguishing a small section. A pipe or fallen tree may attract catfish. Other times, a difference in the rocks does the trick. Watch for boulders changing to smaller rocks or slides of rocks creating underwater points.

5. Log Rafts

These mats of floating logs and debris form in big-river backwaters when water is high. As current velocity and wave action increase, moving water presses the seam of still backwater, causing it to circulate like a vortex. Logs and other flotsam are sucked into this eddy to form big rafts. The rafts attract baitfish and other forage, which in turn attract catfish.

Anchor your boat to one side, and present live or cut bait on an egg-sinker rig—a 1- to 2-ounce egg sinker above a barrel swivel to which your leader and hook are tied. You want the eddy current to pull your rig beneath the raft’s outer edge. After casting, hold your rod tip high and strip line, guiding your rig under the logs. If don’t get a bite before your line catches on the driftwood, move and try again. If cats are present, they’ll usually bite quickly.

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Log rafts sometimes extend half a mile or more, and fishing them can be difficult.But, big or small, catfish love these structures where they find plentiful baitfish and other forage.
(Photo by Keith Sutton)

6. Deep Holes in Ponds

During most seasons, you’ll find pond catfish (typically channel cats and/or bullheads) in the deepest water, usually close to the dam. Cats abandon these structures only when oxygen levels fall too low, such as when a pond stratifies in summer.

Deep holes are particularly good during daylight hours when cats seek the sanctuary of darkness. Fishing here may produce fish in spring, summer and autumn, but winter months outshine others. During this season, cats pile up in cold-water congregations where a school may contain hundreds of fish.

Fish vertically beneath a boat if possible. Use a weight and hook only, with chicken liver or night crawlers for bait. Free-spool the bait to the bottom, reel up one foot, then get ready for action.

We’ve discussed only six hot spots; the dedicated catfisherman will find dozens more. What’s important to remember is this: the best bait and equipment are useless unless hungry catfish are nearby. If you take time to find the best areas, however, and present your bait in the right manner, the odds improve for catching lots of cats, including occasional trophies.

***

Catfishing Author, Keith Sutton

About Keith Sutton

Keith “Catfish” Sutton of Alexander, Arkansas was inducted into the National Fresh Water Fishing Hall of Fame in 2012. He has written four books on catfishing for beginners and experts alike. To order autographed copies, visit www.catfishsutton.com.


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Barringer’s The Freelance Bowhunter – A How-To for the Traveling Archer

By Steve Sorensen

Planning an out-of-state hunt?
Here are the secrets you need to know about bowhunting.

bowhunting-the freelance bowhunter

The Freelance Bowhunter

I’ve been saying for a while now that the Internet has made deer hunting in other states more accessible than ever before. But if you’re really trying to zero in on specifics for hunting whitetails, the Internet may not be the best source for all the how-to angles the traveling hunter needs to know.

Havalon writer Bernie Barringer has recently come out with a book called The Freelance Bowhunter: DIY Strategies for the Traveling Whitetail Hunter. If you aspire to do an out-of-state deer hunt, this book is a goldmine of information. Bernie has made all the mistakes, conquered all the learning curves, and offers all his bowhunting expertise in this essential book.

Seven Reasons you need The Freelance Bowhunter

  1. OK, a book is “old technology” – but Barringer mixes in new technology by adding “QR Codes” you can scan with your smartphone. They’ll take you to videos he has made that explain in visual detail what he’s talking about. This is the first book I’ve seen to do that. Most books merely integrate photos with text. This one integrates videos with text—a real value-added feature!
  1. About technology—Barringer tells you how to use today’s technology for mapping applications, how to use trail cameras while you hunt instead of before you hunt, and how to capitalize on the science you can get from local biologists.
  1. This is the book that will raise your odds of success in bowhunting. You won’t find any other place where you can get expert real-life mentoring on how to select your hunting partner, how to choose prime hunting areas, when to go, how to scout, what kinds of tree stands you’ll need, options for getting meat home, and many other proven ideas that will insure the experience of a lifetime.
  1. It will save you money. Without the information in this book, you’ll spend a lot more than you need to spend. Barringer has explicit instructions on how to maximize limited dollars. A few things are a fixed price—hunting licenses, gas, etc. But you’ll save many times the price of this book if you use his ideas on where to stay, how to split costs with another deer hunter, how to plan easy and inexpensive meals, and other bowhunting secrets you’d otherwise learn mostly through mistakes.
  1. bowhunting-deer-buck

    Barringer shot this mature buck on a hunt in Iowa. His antlers weren’t built to score well, but when you can outsmart an old deer like this on a public land DIY hunt in another state, you’ve accomplished something special.

    Bonus features are full of details, details, details! What your expectations should be. The lost art of getting permission. Weighing whether you should try new places or go back to a place you’ve been to. Why to be aggressive, and more important, how to be aggressive when you’re up against a deadline.

  1. Destinations. Barringer outlines the top 16 whitetail states, with an honest assessment of the benefits and drawbacks of each one. He tells you what you should know, wherever you choose to go. What’s the best? Your choice depends on a variety of factors including where you live, how you’ll travel, and what kind of hunting pressure each state has.
  1. It’s a keeper. Here’s a book that will become dog-eared, because you’ll return to it again and again. While some of the equipment he talks about may become outdated (it always does), the meat of this book draws from the lifetime of experience of one of the nation’s top traveling bowhunters, so it will be relevant year after year after year.

Don’t underestimate the value of The Freelance Bowhunter—it covers everything you can think of about mobile bowhunting, and much that you won’t. Even if you’re already in the planning stages for a deer hunt this fall, you can learn a lot from Bernie Barringer. It’s on-target, and I’m betting a lot of hunters will credit some great bucks to what they learn from this book. Buy it from the author’s own website at www.bowhuntingroad.com, or from www.Amazon.com, where it’s also available for Kindle.

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About Steve Sorensen

Outdoor writer and speaker Steve Sorensen is the author of Growing Up With Guns, writes an award-winning newspaper column called The Everyday Hunter®, and edits content on the Havalon Sportsman’s Post. He has also published articles in Deer & Deer Hunting, Outdoor Life, and many other top magazines across the USA. Invite Steve to speak at your next sportsman’s event, and follow him at www.EverydayHunter.com.

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An Introduction to Catfishing: 5 Indispensable Tips

By Keith “Catfish” Sutton

With catfish baits that will double your catch! 

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Many anglers believe summer is the only good season for catfishing. In reality, the best fishing often is during other seasons.

Catfish fight hard, are great to eat and often weigh 20 to 100 pounds – and even more! It’s hard not to like a fish like that. They’re abundant in many U.S. waters, and can be caught year-round. It’s no wonder more people want to catch catfish. If you’re among them, these five tips can shorten your learning curve and jump start your cat-catching.

1. Use tactics specific to the species of catfish you hope to catch.

All catfish are alike, so fishing tactics that work for one species work for all. Right? Many anglers fish as if this were true, but it is not. Blues, Flatheads and Channel cats each exhibit unique behaviors. Consequently, we should use tactics and baits specific to each species.

Blue cats behave like striped bass. Adults feed on shad, herring and other highly mobile, schooling baitfish. Therefore, this species is very migratory and frequently found in open water. So to catch blues, locate baitfish and fish nearby. Those same baitfish work best, either caught and fished alive or cut into chunks or fillets.

Flatheads are cover lovers, ambushing prey from brush piles, log drifts, cavities and other hiding places. They scavenge little, preferring live fish for dinner. So, fish live fish baits. Most are solitary. It’s a rare fishing hole that holds more than one, so when you catch one, move to another spot.

Channel cats are the most abundant of the three species in ponds, small lakes and small rivers, so targeting these environs is a good way to catch them. They also inhabit big reservoirs and rivers but are less likely than blues to follow baitfish schools and less likely than flatheads to hide in dense cover. You’ll usually find them near less dense cover like snags, stumps and rocks. And because they are efficient scavengers and predators, they can be caught on almost any bait, including baitfish, worms, crawfish, frogs, stinkbaits, shrimp and even hot dogs and soap!

Knowing these things, we can immediately improve our fishing success just by using the correct catfish bait in the locale most likely to harbor the type of catfish we expect to catch.

2. Be keenly aware of the catfish’s sensory abilities.

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Catching a trophy flathead like this often requires fishing in dense cover, a much different tactic than might be used to catch a blue or channel catfish.

Catfish have incredible senses. Their skin is actually covered in taste buds that easily detect minute quantities of proteins. Special olfactory and auditory organs give them astounding senses of smell and hearing as well. Their eyesight is much better than their small eyes would suggest, and they use their lateral lines to detect low-frequency vibrations.

Their acute senses benefit anglers. These multifaceted detection systems help them to find an angler’s bait easily, day or night, in all types of water. However, the fact that catfish are so keenly aware of smells, sounds and other sensory cues can make it hard to hook a fish that perceives something out of place.

For example, if a catfish tastes or smells certain compounds in the water or on your bait, feeding activities cease. So we should avoid handling gasoline, sunscreen, tobacco, insect repellent and other substances before or during fishing.

The catfish’s acute auditory system creates difficulties as well. Making unnecessary noise in your boat alerts them and makes them warier, so be quiet. Anglers also must contend with their lateral line sense, which, surprising as it may seem, can detect footsteps on shore. When bank fishing, walk quietly or sit still.

Catfish avoid overhead shadows, too, a reaction to evade bird predators like eagles. They easily see shadows in clear or lightly stained water, so when fishing such places, avoid casting shadows on the water you’re fishing.

Many catfish fans don’t understand these sensory abilities and wonder why catfish won’t bite. Often, it’s because the fish detect something they don’t like and leave. Keep this in mind and you should catch cats.

3. Fish year-round.

Despite what many anglers think, catfishing is not just a summertime sport. You can fish during all seasons and expect to do well.

Flathead fishing often peaks during high-water periods in spring, or in fall when fish are packing on pounds for the lean winter months ahead. Blue cats and channel cats gather in big schools in winter, usually in deep holes in lakes, ponds and rivers. Find the holes and fishing action can be almost nonstop.

4. Rock around the clock.

Despite popular misconceptions, catfish don’t just work the night shift. They can be caught when the sun is high and on the darkest nights, but remember these pointers.

  • Fishing clear waters on cloudy days works, but if the sky is clear and sunny, fishing after dark usually proves more productive.
  • In muddy or stained waters, fish when you like, day or night. But remember, catfish feeding activity often peaks at dawn, so it pays to be on the water at sunrise.
  • Flatheads are more nocturnal than channels or blues. For them, night fishing usually works best.

5. Remember sharp, exposed hooks work better.

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Burying the hook point in bait is a common mistake. The barb of the hook should always remain exposed for easier hooksets.

Novice catfish anglers often have trouble hooking catfish, but this problem has simple solutions.

  • First, be sure your hooks are needle-sharp. Run each point over a fingernail. Sharp hooks dig in. Those that skate across the nail without catching should be honed or replaced.
  • Second, instead of burying your hook in bait, leave the barb exposed. Catfish won’t notice. More hookups result.
  • Finally, try circle hooks. A hard hookset isn’t needed with these specially configured hooks. Instead, when a fish takes your bait, you just start reeling and you’ll hook the fish in the corner of the mouth almost every time.

Those five tips will start you off catching cats. Now find some catfish water and start hauling in this great sport fish.

***

About Keith Sutton

Catfishing author Keith Sutton

Keith “Catfish” Sutton

Keith “Catfish” Sutton is the author of Pro Tactics Catfish, a 168-page, full-color book jam-packed with information to help you catch more blues, channel cats and flatheads. To order an autographed copy, send a check or money order for $24.45 to C & C Outdoor Productions, 15601 Mountain Dr., Alexander, AR 72002. For credit card and PayPal orders, and for information on Sutton’s other books, visit www.catfishsutton.com.

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An Elephant Gun For Hog Hunting – Why Not?

By Max Prasac

A hog hunting expert answers questions about the proper firearm for a big ol’ pig.

max prasac with hog trophy 370x336I have to admit that I harbor dreams of Africa. What hunter doesn’t? A number of years ago I was determined to hunt Africa, so the first logical step was to acquire a rifle that was up to the task of taking the biggest and most dangerous animals Africa has to offer. I bought a custom-built Mauser bolt-action rifle in .416 Remington Magnum. Not a gun for plinking, no fun off of the bench, and even less fun to feed (on the wallet, that is). But I would get to Africa… eventually!

Fast forward a number of years, a mortgage, a family, bills to pay, mouths to feed, and African dreams get filed away to a corner of the mind you rarely visit. But that elephant gun? You can still use it on hogs! OK, the outfitter will look at you funny when you start loading cigar-sized rounds into your rifle. But my outfitter already thinks I’m crazy – particularly when I showed up in camp with a rifle, when he knows me primarily as a handgun hunter.

Why such a big gun?

Isn’t a .416 a bit much? Isn’t it overkill? Isn’t it TOO MUCH gun? Why use such a big caliber on hogs? Well, why not? Yes, it kills on both ends, but it makes for really potent hog medicine. Is it necessary to hunt hogs with such a large caliber rifle? Nope, they don’t wear Kevlar vests—at least not yet—and are a bit smaller in stature than elephants and Cape buffalo.

What ammo for a big gun?

Before I booked my hunt with Hog Heaven Outfitters of Johnston County, North Carolina, I contacted Mike McNett, president and CEO of Double Tap Ammunition and talked to him about my upcoming hunt. He loads the .416 Remington in a number of different flavors, and I settled on the lightest loads, throwing a 300 grain Barnes TSX at a scorching 2,920 fps. Should be enough for hogs… so I ordered up a box. Why not? Do you see a pattern here? Light load? In a big gun, doesn’t matter!

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We settled on Double Tap’s lightest load for the .416 Remington Magnum, loaded with a 300 grain Barnes TSX at an advertised 2,920 feet per second. We sighted our old Mauser in at 100 yards and headed out to Hog Heaven Outfitters of North Carolina for real-world testing. (Photo by Max Prasac)

What gear for a big gun?

First I mounted an Ultradot 30 red dot on Warne scope bases, using the supplied rings from Ultradot. After a morning range session to get reacquainted with my rifle, I was ready for the hunt.

Arriving in camp an hour before dark, outfitter Milt Turnage handed me a flashlight and told me to strap it on to my red dot sight. The light came with a contoured base and a Velcro strap, and is called a “Kill Light,” produced by Elusive Wildlife Technologies, a company out of Texas. The red light purportedly doesn’t spook the hogs, enabling you to hunt in the dark. I was skeptical, but I mounted the light and headed out to my stand for the evening.

Too big for a pig?

All was quiet till about 9:15 when I heard slight rustling of the brush about 50 yards to my left. The movement seemed too careful and quiet for a hog, but you never know. So, I cranked up my Ultradot, flipped the switch on the Kill Light, and bathed in the red light was a big boar hog. I took the shot that was offered me, a less than perfect shoulder shot with the animal quartering towards me. When .416 barked, the hog crashed off into the North Carolina swamp. My ensuing investigation revealed no blood, and no hog. Did I miss?

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We mounted this XLR 100 red light onto our Ultradot sight with the supplied mount and Velcro strap. Produced by Elusive Wildlife Technologies, this little gem made hunting in the dark possible without the cost associated with military-style night-vision equipment. (Photo by Max Prasac)

After turning up no evidence of a hit, I headed back up to my stand. Maybe the hog would come back knowing I’m evidently no great shot with a rifle. Boy, I was never going to hear the end of this back at camp. Milt and his crew came to pick me up and with our flashlights we searched the area. Nothing. That’s when the teasing started. I swallowed my pride, went to bed, and got up at the crack of dawn. The stand I was sitting on in the morning was about 100 yards from last night’s scene of embarrassment. When no pigs made an appearance (they must not have heard about my shooting prowess), I climbed down and went back to where I hunted the night before. It took all of ten minutes for me to find one large, and very dead boar, with a .416 caliber hole through him. He made it only about 25 yards from where I shot him. Guess I’m not so bad with a rifle after all.

OK, so why the .416?

You don’t have to have a good reason to use a particular firearm for wild hog hunting. If you have a rifle that gets little use, collecting dust in your safe until you are able to realize your African, Alaskan, or fill-in-the-blank dream, why not use it to knock over a pig? You might as well clean it up, order up some ammo, get reacquainted with it and then put some pork chops in your freezer. No reason is as good a reason as any. When asked why, simply reply: Why not?

five take-aways text box

 


Max Prasac 160x150

Max Prasac is an outdoor writer with columns in Bear Hunter’s Online magazine. He’s a regular contributor to the NRA’s American Hunter as well as a frequent contributor to Gun Digest magazine. He is also the author of Gun Digest’s Big-Bore Revolvers and the Gun Digest Book of Ruger Revolvers.


 

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