6 Expert Tips for Catching Your Next Big Bluegill

By Keith Sutton

Want to catch bluegills as big as
dinner plates? Follow these 6 tips!

A big bluegill caught using proper techniques

Trophy bluegills, like this 2-pound plus catch, are among the wariest and most difficult to catch of all sportfish. It can be done, however, if you employ the right techniques in the water. (Photo: Keith Sutton)

Bluegill fishing isn’t hard. Anyone can catch them. These scrappy panfish are not especially wary, and small ones will forgive even the most slipshod angling techniques.

Catching large bluegills — those that weigh 1½ pounds or more — is a different story altogether. When a big bluegill reaches the size of a man’s hand, it’s been around long enough to be considerably more guarded than its little buddies. By the time it’s the size of a dinner plate, it’s one of the most cautious creatures in freshwater. Only the most skillful anglers are savvy enough to entice one to bite.

It can be done, however, especially if you follow these tips.

1. Fish the right waters

The primary key to catching these trophy fish — and I can’t stress this enough — is fishing the right body of water. You could fish many lakes that produce thousands of 1-pounders annually without ever catching a 1½- or 2-pound fish. Trophy bluegill waters are special waters with an excellent forage base and near-perfect balance of predators (like largemouth bass) and prey (bluegills and other small fish).

One way to pinpoint trophy waters is to phone the freshwater fisheries agency in the state you’re fishing and speak to a fisheries biologist familiar with bluegill waters. A few questions presented to the right individual could help you find several choice locations.

Social media sites like Facebook can also help. Look for friends posting photos of extra-large fish and see if they’ll share where they were caught. If they’re stubborn, a bottle of bourbon or a couple of your favorite fishing lures will sometimes loosen tongues.

A bluegill caught while fishing at night

Few bluegill anglers fish at night, but big bluegills like this are often easier to catch after dark. (Photo: Keith Sutton)

2. Fish quietly

Small fish tolerate an amazing amount of disturbance – a paddle banged against the boat, a fallen tackle box, squeaky boat seats. But a big bluegill won’t abide the slightest bit of commotion. At the first hint of danger, they disappear into the depths. It’s important to be attentive to noisy distractions. Wear soft-soled shoes in your boat. Arrange gear so there’s little chance of accidentally creating a disturbance. Fish slowly and “quiet as a mouse.”

3. Fish at night

In some waters in summer, the largest bluegills feed primarily at night, just like catfish. You can sometimes catch them on spinners, small topwater plugs and other noisy or vibrating lures. But live baits like small minnows or night crawlers are usually best for enticing heavyweights after dark. Lively 2- to 3-inch minnows are especially good for nighttime bluegill fishing because those exceeding 1½ pounds often turn from a diet of invertebrates to a diet of small fish.

Big bluegill caught from fishing on the bottom

Fish on the bottom: that’s one way to target heavyweight bluegills, which often are most active in the sanctuary of deep, dark water. Small spinners like the Road Runner Natural Science Trout & Panfish spinner work great for this. (Photo: Keith Sutton)

4. Fish on bottom

Bigger bluegills tend to take a position below the rest of a school, usually on or very near the bottom. A tightline bait rig is one of the best for catching these bottom dwellers. Thread a small egg sinker on your line and, below it, tie on a barrel swivel just large enough to keep the sinker from sliding off. To the swivel’s lower eye, tie a 2- or 3-foot leader of light line tipped with a long-shanked Carlisle hook. Add a small minnow, cricket or other live bait, then cast the rig and allow it to settle to the bottom. When a fish takes the bait, the line moves freely through the sinker with no resistance to alert fish to a possible threat.

The best lures are ones that can also be worked on or near the bottom. My favorite is Road Runner’s Natural Science Trout & Panfish spinner. I’ve used it to catch several bluegills at or exceeding the 2-pound mark. The 1/32-ounce size is small enough for small-mouthed bream to inhale, and the spinner blade rotates quickly even when the lure is retrieved at the snail’s pace usually needed to entice these persnickety panfish. Few lures are as effective for bluegill fishing.

5. Fish naked

No, not you. Your fishing line. When heavyweight bluegills are persnickety, one of the best ways to tempt them is stripping your terminal tackle away to the bare essentials — nothing more than a baited hook. No sinkers. No floats. No swivels. No terminal tackle of any kind except a quality-made, sharp-as-the-dickens No. 4 or 6 Carlisle hook with a lively cricket, small minnow or small piece of worm impaled on it. Without any weight except that of the hook, the bait sinks very slowly, fluttering about as it does. A big bluegill will find such baits irresistible. You’ll have to watch your line very closely as the bait sinks, looking for any slight movement indicating a hit. When regular tactics fail, this one can save the day.

6. Fish fresh

If the tactics here don’t produce, employ some fresh, new ideas. Use a different bait, try a new rig or visit another fishing locale. Trophy bluegills are among the wariest and most difficult to catch of all North American sportfish, but innovation has led to success a million times. There’s no reason it can’t land you your next trophy fish.


About Keith Sutton:

Keith Sutton headshotKeith Sutton is the author of “The Crappie Fishing Handbook,” a 198-page, full-color book full of crappie-fishing tips for beginners and experts alike. To order an autographed copy, send a check or money order for $29.45 to C&C Outdoor Productions, 15601 Mountain Drive, Alexander, AR 72002. For credit card and PayPal orders, visit www.catfishsutton.com.


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For All “Everyday Hunters”

By Zach Rogers

A conversation with outdoor writer and
hunter Steve Sorensen

Steve Sorensen hunting a spring turkey

Over the years, Steve has landed his fair share of spring turkeys. He’s even created his own custom turkey call he refers to as the Northern Scratchbox, which you can purchase via his website. (Photo: Steve Sorensen)

Steve Sorensen, otherwise known as “The Everyday Hunter,” is an award-winning outdoor writer whose passion for hunting and the outdoors has shaped every aspect of his life. Born and raised in Warren County, Pennsylvania (where he still lives today), Sorensen fell in love with hunting at an early age, admiring the bucks his father would bring home until he got the chance to experience the hunt himself. Whether he was hunting rabbits after school or reading issues of Pennsylvania Game News, Sorensen always knew his love of hunting would take him places, although he probably never guessed he’d be able to combine it with another passion of his, writing.

Fast-forward to 2015 and Sorensen is coming off of being awarded the 2015 “Pinnacle” Award from the Professional Outdoor Media Association (POMA) for magazine writing for his article, “The Arthur Young Buck — 1830,” which appeared in the December 2013 issue of Pennsylvania Game News. Sorensen sat down to talk about his life growing up in Pennsylvania, his introduction to hunting and how he got wrapped up in the world of outdoor writing.

You recently won the 2015 “Pinnacle” Award from the Professional Outdoor Media Association. How did it feel when you heard the news?

It took me completely by surprise. I was speaking at a Wild Game Dinner in Hanover, Pennsylvania when I read about it on Facebook. My friend and fellow outdoor writer Tom Claycomb, who was there when it was announced, posted it. The caliber of writers who have won the award for magazine writing in the past includes Ron Spomer and Mike Marsh (both are Havalon contributors) and Frank Miniter (one of the top writers for the NRA). I’m very flattered to be in that group, and I want to thank the POMA for all it does to promote the traditional “hook and gun” sports, and Mossy Oak for sponsoring it.

Steve Sorensen with 2015 Pinnacle Award

Steve with his 2015 “Pinnacle” Award from the Professional Outdoor Media Association. (Photo: Steve Sorensen)

You also just won five writing awards from the Pennsylvania Outdoor Writers Association, including two first place awards. What are your thoughts on all the well-deserved praise you’ve received this year?

One of my first place awards from the POWA was for my book, “Growing Up With Guns.” Much of the book is really about how to think about hunting. Many people don’t know that hunters are the ones who have protected wildlife and put the most into conserving it for future generations. It seems counter-intuitive, but hunters with firearms have insured that wildlife thrives on this continent. Those who don’t hunt but love wildlife should be thanking hunters because almost 100 percent of the investment made in wildlife comes from hunters. The North American model of wildlife conservation means wildlife belongs to us all. Sadly, it’s not that way in the rest of the world. The fact that my book has received this kind of recognition helps get the message out.

How long have you been writing professionally?

My first outdoor article was published in Pennsylvania Sportsman in 2000. Not long after that I had two feature articles published in national magazines, Outdoor Life and Fur-Fish-Game. My outdoor writing became more regular in 2005 when I was invited by the local newspaper to write a regular outdoor column. That’s when I joined my first professional writing organization, the POWA. It was a foot in the door and a connection to a great organization where I built a lot of relationships and became acquainted with some of the writers I had read growing up — people like Bob Clark and Shirley Grenoble.

What was it like growing up in Warren County? What kind of background did you come from?

My parents are rural, blue-collar people. Both graduated from high school, but never had the opportunity for college. I was blessed to be born into a Christian family, and that had a big impact on me. I was 6 years old when my dad brought home a nice buck, and I was hooked on hunting from that day forward. While in high school I often had a shotgun on school grounds because after school I liked to hunt rabbits on the hill above the school. At graduation I — along with a friend who ended up becoming a pro football star — received an award for “outstanding character and manly qualities.” I still laugh about that. In today’s world having a gun at school might kill your chance of graduating — and it won’t win you an award for character!

steve&10pt_lowresZR6102015

Steve was in first grade when his dad brought home this 10-point buck. Steve begged his mom until she finally let him get a picture of the deer before his dad skinned it. (Photo: Steve Sorensen)

Did you come from a family of hunters and outdoorsmen?

Yes, I think all my uncles have been hunters at some point in time. Some didn’t stay with it because of the direction their lives took them, whether it was work or the military. Most of my cousins who grew up around here hunted, and some came back to hunt. The opening day of deer season was always a big holiday. Most people I knew were hunters, whether from church or school. I was introduced to hunting at age 6, but I don’t want to mislead anyone into thinking I was a bloodthirsty little kid. I never actually killed a game animal until I was 15. I was just stubborn enough to stick with it.

Tell me about your column “The Everyday Hunter®,” which is a three-time winner of “Best Newspaper Column” from the POWA. Where did you get the idea for it?

One of my younger brothers gave me the idea for the name. “The Everyday Hunter®“says I’m neither the expert hunter nor the celebrity hunter. I’m certainly not the best hunter around, so I try to write for other everyday hunters. But I’m pretty sure no one thinks about it more, or loves it more, than I do. That’s why I have a tailpiece that usually appears on my columns. It says, “When ‘The Everyday Hunter’ isn’t hunting, he’s thinking about hunting, talking about hunting, dreaming about hunting, writing about hunting or wishing he were hunting.”

It’s currently in two newspapers, one in Pennsylvania and one in New York, and I’m hoping a couple of other newspapers pick it up soon. I often write about the how-to of hunting, but what underlies most of my columns is what hunting means and why we do it. It’s bottom shelf hunting philosophy for other everyday hunters.

You’re working on a series of books called the “The Everyday Hunter® Handbook Series.” Could you tell me a little bit about that?

I got the idea for “The Everyday Hunter Handbook Series” when Smokey McNicholas of Smokey’s Deer Lures asked me to write a book about using pre-orbital gland lure for scouting and hunting whitetail deer. I had written a few articles about it before, but I didn’t think it would be a very big book, nor would I have much of a market for it. But I agreed to write it because it gave me the idea for a series on short topics. “Secrets of Using Pre-Orbital Gland Lure” was the first, followed by “A 30-Day Hunt for Faith.” Those first two are outperforming my expectations, so I’m anxious to get more out.

Steve Sorensen with a whitetail deer

No one thinks about hunting more, or loves it more, than the Everyday Hunter. (Photo: Steve Sorensen)

You’re also the author of the book “Growing Up With Guns.” Tell me a little bit about the book and how the idea came about?

Growing Up With Guns,” my first book, came about because people wanted me to put my columns into book form. I didn’t want a random collection of unconnected chapters, but I soon realized if I rewrote them and grouped them properly, I’d have a book about the contribution firearms make to the great conservation movement North American hunters are engaged in. It’s about how to think about hunting. One friend of mine, Audrey Zimmerman (who is the best woman hunter I know) said it’s “venison stew for the hunter’s soul.” It gets people to think about the benefits of hunting, and gives hunters the ammunition they need to be able to talk about hunting in positive terms.

Steve Sorensen speaking at a sportman's dinner

Steve at one of his many sportsman’s dinners, where he speaks on topics like Alaska moose, whitetail deer, wild turkeys and eastern coyotes. (Photo: Steve Sorensen)

You also do a lot of public speaking at various sportsmen’s events. How did you get involved with that?

Back in the ’80s the church I attended held a wild game banquet and invited Charles J. Alsheimer to be the speaker. Charlie might be the world’s best whitetail photographer, and he puts on a terrific program. We kept in touch, and in 2007 he told me I ought to be speaking at these events. He began recommending me and now, during the “cabin fever season” of January through March, I get a lot of calls based on his recommendation, and also through my website, www.EverydayHunter.com.

Do you have any more projects lined up this year?

The main season for wild game dinners is January through March, so it has tailed off for 2015. I’m taking bookings for 2016 and have already had inquiries for 2017. I’ll probably speak at a couple of sport shows this summer. I’m hoping to print “Essentials of Scent Control” soon, and write a new volume for the Handbook Series on turkey hunting. That will make four, and should give me a pretty good idea whether I should continue in that vein.

I’m also working on a book about a western hound hunter who chases bears and cougars. It’s about the kind of life that has just about gone extinct. I’m also working on an annual project for Deer & Deer Hunting magazine along with some other magazine articles. And of course we’ll continue to produce some solid, easily digestible stuff for our Havalon Nation readers.


Steve Sorensen is the author of “Growing Up With Guns” and “The Everyday Hunter Handbook Series.” He writes an award-winning newspaper column called “The Everyday Hunter®” and edits content in the Havalon Post. He has published articles in top magazines across the USA, and recently won the 2015 “Pinnacle” Award for magazine writing from the Professional Outdoor Media Association and five writing awards from the Pennsylvania Outdoor Writers Association. Invite Steve to speak at your next sportsman’s event, and follow him at www.EverydayHunter.com.


Pick up a copy of Steve’s book
“Growing Up With Guns” today!

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Natural, Artificial or Both? The Best Baits for Bedding Bluegills

By Darl Black

A short primer for catching everybody’s
favorite fish!

A successful catch while fishing for bluegill

America’s favorite panfish — the bluegill. (Photo: Darl Black)

Many fishermen refer indiscriminately to the lepomis genus as bluegills or bream, lumping pumpkinseeds and other sunfish into one broad category. Young or old, novice or experienced — every angler enjoys catching them. They are the most widely distributed and most sought after panfish in the U.S., and they receive the most attention during the summer spawning period. Everyone loves a little bluegill fishing, but you might be wondering what kind of bluegill bait works best in the water. Well, first know the spawn, then know your baits!

1. Know the Spawn

The nest-building and bedding process for bluegills generally begins after water temperature in the shallows climbs into the high 60s and remains stable. While the initial major spawn occurs around 70 degrees, on many waters subsequent waves of bluegills spawn throughout the early summer.

Another catch from fishing for bluegill

While the first bluegill spawn occurs around 70 degrees in the spring, subsequent spawns often occur through early summer. (Photo: Darl Black)

Bedding typically takes place in one to four feet of water over a sandy or pebble-gravely bottom in areas protected from strong winds and waves.  On large bodies of water, early spawning bluegills move to bays, cuts, inlets and leeward side of islands. Later spawns often take place along main lake shoreline and on offshore humps.

Males build a nest by fanning away debris to form a 6 to 12-inch saucer-like depression. Bluegills build nests in relatively close proximity to each other, creating colonies of craters that are easily spotted by an observant angler peering into clear water. As multiple females deposit eggs on a nest, the male fertilizes the eggs and remains on guard duty until fry emerge in about five days.

2. Think Light Tackle

When fishing for bluegill, bigger isn’t necessarily better when it comes to live bait or artificial lures. The single biggest mistake is employing a hook size or bait too large for the exceptionally small mouth of a bluegill. When selecting live bait or artificial lures, think small — or better yet, think micro. In terms of a hook size, a long shank light wire #10 is ideal for live bait. Same size hook applies if using a jighead. Never go larger than size #8 or smaller than size #12.

Bobbers are often used in presentations for bluegills. A bobber should be small with just enough buoyancy to support the weight of the tiny jig. Bluegills should be able to easily pull the float under the water.

Ultralight or very light-action rods with four- or two-pound test are required to cast the demure, lightweight fishing lures and bait rigs used for bluegill. Seven foot rods with soft actions aid in casting tiny baits and sweeping hooksets.

Bluegill angler with two bluegill

Who doesn’t enjoy fishing for bluegill? (Photo: Darl Black)

3. Best Live Baits

Natural baits vary depending on geography, and every angler has a personal preference.

  • Earthworms: Worms are a good choice for bluegills anywhere, but never use an entire worm. Whether using crawlers or red worms, pinch or cut into small sections with just enough meat to cover the hook. Yes, cutting worms into pieces does make a mess.
  • Crickets: Southern anglers favor live crickets for bluegill bait. In northern states you will have difficulty finding crickets in bait shops, but you can mail order them. However, crickets are even messier to use than worms and do not stay on the hook very well.
  • Larval Baits: My southern angling buddies instinctively wince at the thought of using maggots, and southern bait shops do not carry them. However, every bait shop up North carries maggots as well as other larval baits. Sure, they’re a bit smelly, but that’s what makes them so good for tipping small jigs or sticking three of them on a plain bait hook.

4. Best Artificial Baits

In the long run, artificial fishing lures are more cost effective than live bait, and bluegills can readily be caught on them.

Depending on the clarity of the water, you may be able to find bedding colonies using a sharp eye and running the shoreline in suspect areas. However, in dingy or off-color water you will need to search for active bedding areas by working a lure. I divide artificial bait into two general categories: those used for searching and those used for fishing bedding areas to maximize the catch.

A set of bluegill baits

The author’s favorite “search baits” for bluegills include micro crankbaits on the left and jig spinners on the right. (Photo: Darl Black)

Using search lures — I simply work the shallows by casting and slowly retrieving the lure with an ultralight rod. My bait selection includes the following:

  • Micro crankbaits: Tiny crankbaits about an inch long with a single #12 or #14 treble. My favorites were Yo-Zuri’s Aile Killifish and Rebel’s Tadpole, but both are no longer available. My third choice, the Rebel Teeny Wee-Crawfish, is still in production.
  • Jig Spinner: I refer to any jighead with a blade attached as a jig-spinner, whether it’s a bottom spinner such as on the Road Runner or on the tail such as Slider’s Lil’ Whirly Bee or Charlie Bee. Be sure to choose the 1/32-ounce model in any of these baits.
  • Mini Spinnerbait: The smallest size Beetle Spin is the commercial version of this bait. However, I create my own by combining a clip-on safety pin spinner and jighead with a one-inch soft plastic body. For fishing around reeds or brushy areas, this is a better choice than an exposed hook jig spinner.

Using bedding presentations — These incorporate the use of a small float with 1/32-ounce (or lighter) jighead suspended below it. Adjust the depth setting for the float so the bait hangs just off the bottom. A fixed float or clip-on float will work in extremely shallow water. Cast beyond the bedding area and slowly drag the float rig, pausing frequently within the colony.

  • Float & Bug: Bug is a generic term I apply to the multitude of 1 to 1-1/2 inch soft plastic critters that produce bluegills. I doubt the shape or style of the “bug” matters as long as a bluegill can suck it in very easily. However, some days bluegills seem more receptive to bright colors, while other days muted natural tones produce better. Various “bugs” are available from Northland and Maki-Plastic, as well as many other manufacturers.
  • Float & Fly: Using a tiny hair or marabou jig on the bobber rig is as effective as plastic, and the fly will usually last longer than plastic. Tiny marabou jigs are available through Charlie Brewer’s Slider Company and many other sources.
  • Swim a Grub: The One-Inch Bluegill Slider Grub on a 1/64-ounce jig is the perfect one-bite bait for bluegills that are notorious for ripping tails off crappie-size grubs. Simply clip on a bobber to keep jig off the bottom and swim slowly across bedding areas.
A collection of the best bait for bluegill

Once a bedding area is uncovered, switching to a bobber presentation keeps the tiny jig baits at the correct depth. Bed bait choices include a selection of soft plastic bugs (left) and hair flies (right). (Photo: Darl Black)

Understanding the differences in bait can help improve your bluegill fishing success. It’s also important to know the bedding process for bluegills and which strategies work best during the summer spawning season. Now go fish!


About Darl Black:

Darl BlackDarl Black is a lifelong freshwater angler and veteran writer/photographer. Darl tackles a wide variety of fishing related stories for print publications and websites. Of all fishing, angling for smallmouth bass is his favorite pastime. He can be reached for assignment at darlblack@windstream.net.


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5 Things Every Angler Should Know About Catfish Senses

By Keith Sutton

Imagine being a catfish — it could help you
catch more whisker fish!

Catfish angler with his catch

A catfish is like a swimming tongue. Every square centimeter of its body is covered with taste buds that help the fish locate food. On a large catfish like this flathead, taste buds number in the millions. (Photo: Keith Sutton)

You’d think the sensory abilities of catfish come right out of “Ripley’s Believe It or Not!” No other fish have more acute senses of taste, touch, smell and hearing. Cats have other senses, too — the lateral line sense and electroreception — that help them find food, decide what to eat and avoid predators. A short lesson in understanding how these senses function will dramatically improve your catfishing success.

1. Taste — If you were a catfish, you could taste pizza just by sitting on it.

A catfish just six inches long has more than a quarter million taste buds on its body. Yes — on its body. Every square centimeter of skin is covered with least 5,000 taste buds, with the densest concentrations on the gill rakers and whiskers (barbels). On a giant blue cat or flathead, taste buds number in the millions. Taste buds cover the fins, back, belly, sides and tail.

2. Smell — If you were a catfish, you’d smell what’s cooking in your neighbor’s oven.

A catfish’s sense of smell is equally keen. Catfish can smell some compounds at one part to 10 billion parts of water. Water flows over folds of sensitive tissue inside the catfish’s nostrils, allowing detection of virtually every substance in the fish’s environment. The number of these folds seems related to sharpness of smell. Channel cats have more than 140. Rainbow trout have 18, largemouth bass eight to 13.

3. Hearing — If you were a catfish, you’d never need headphones.

With no visible ears, it might seem like catfish can’t hear well. Don’t believe it. A catfish’s body has the same density as water, so it doesn’t need external ears. Sound waves traveling through water go through a catfish as well. When sound waves hit the fish’s swim bladder, the bladder vibrates. This amplifies sound waves, which travel to small bones (otoliths) in the inner ear. The otoliths vibrate, too, and bend hair-like projections on cells beneath them. Nerves in these cells carry sound messages to the brain.

The swim bladder on most fish is independent of the inner ear. But in catfish, bones connect the bladder with the inner ear. Fish without these bone connections (bass and trout, for example) can detect sounds from 20 to 1,000 cycles per second. Catfish are equipped with high-tech audio, so they can hear sounds of much higher frequency, up to about 13,000 cycles per second!

Close-up of catfish eyes

Although the eyes of catfish are relatively small, they provide keen sight for zeroing in on prey in water that’s not too turbid. (Photo: Keith Sutton)

4. Sight — If you were a catfish, you’d have free night vision optics.

Catfish also have excellent eyesight. In clear water, they often strike lures, with no sensory cues other than sight triggering this action. They see something resembling prey, and they attack.

Cones in the eyes indicate catfish have color vision, and other structures enhance their night-feeding abilities. Rods improve dim-light sight, and each eye is lined with a layer of crystals that reflects gathered light on the retina, thus improving the fish’s low-light vision even more.

5. Anatomy of the bite — If you were a catfish, eating would be a whole body experience.

All these sensory cues control a catfish’s feeding behavior. It doesn’t just search with its nose or taste buds or eyes. It uses every sensory cue available before deciding to eat. The sensory organs on the skin detect tastes, smells and sounds from potential food items and send messages to the fish’s brain telling it to search for it. When the catfish picks up the food, taste buds in the mouth tell it to eat the food — or spit it out.

Pros and Cons: If you are a catfisherman, you need to know how to beat a catfish’s senses.

PRO: When catfishing, you benefit from the fact that these whiskered warriors’ senses are so acute. Because catfish have multifaceted detection systems, they have little trouble finding your bait day or night no matter what type of water you are fishing — clear, muddy, stained, fast-moving, slow-moving, deep or shallow.

CON: However, the fact that catfish are so keenly aware of smells, sounds and other sensory cues can also make it difficult to hook a fish that detects something isn’t right. For example, if a catfish tastes or smells certain compounds in the water or on your bait, feeding activities will cease. These compounds include such things as gasoline and ingredients in sunscreen, tobacco and insect repellent.

Insect repellent can disrupt catfish senses negatively

Certain ingredients in insect repellent, sunscreen, gasoline and tobacco products are very repellent to catfish. When possible, anglers should minimize use of and contact with such items to improve their fishing success. (Photo: Keith Sutton)

CON: The fact that catfish have one of nature’s most acute auditory systems could create difficulties as well. Making unnecessary noise in your boat certainly will alert catfish to your presence and make them warier. But you also must contend with their superb lateral line sense, which is used to detect low-frequency vibrations. As surprising as it may seem, this sense enables a catfish to detect your footsteps on shore, so tread lightly.

CON: A catfish also uses its sight to detect shadows. If, for example, an osprey flies overhead and casts a shadow on the water, a catfish seeing this will retreat to the safety of cover or deep water. An angler’s shadow cast on the water often produces the same reaction.

PRO: To improve your catch rate, therefore, you should use avoidance strategies that tilt the odds more in your favor. Avoid contact with gas, sunscreen, insect repellent and tobacco when fishing. Avoid making unnecessary noise, even when bank fishing. Avoid fishing where your shadow falls upon the water, or fish at night when shadows aren’t a problem.

Following these simple tips, seldom considered by most anglers, can greatly increase the number of catfish you catch.


About Keith Sutton:

Keith Sutton headshotKeith Sutton is the author of “Hardcore Catfishing: Beyond the Basics,” a 180-page, full-color book released in April 2015. It’s full of catfishing tips that will benefit beginners and experts alike. To order an autographed copy, send a check or money order for $22.45 to C&C Outdoor Productions, 15601 Mountain Drive, Alexander, AR 72002. For credit card and PayPal orders, visit www.catfishsutton.com.


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Recipe: High-Octane Wild Hog

By Tracy L. Schmidt

Make terrific tasting pulled pork from
your next wild hog!

Wild hog pulled pork sandwich

Whether you are at the family table or away at hunting camp, there is nothing better to eat for dinner than a freshly prepared barbeque sandwich. (Photo: Tracy Schmidt)

The morning after my husband, Dan, returned from a recent wild hog hunting trip, I woke up thinking about how to prepare our hog. Since I cook a lot of venison, I decided to adapt one my hits from that playbook.

After breakfast I asked Dan if he wanted any more of the coffee in the pot because I was going to dump it all over his treasured hog in my slow cooker. “Seriously?” he responded. I told him I was absolutely serious. I make venison roast with coffee, so why not wild hog? The most abundant acid in coffee — chlorogenic acid — is an antioxidant and helps tenderize the venison. It will do the same for pork.

Hog hunter with wild hog

My husband, Dan Schmidt, bringing home some wild hog. (Photo: Tracy Schmidt)

Dan looked at me a bit funny but stood to the side and watched while I measured and poured the coffee over the meat in the slow cooker. This might be a little different, but I like to use what I have handy for a lot of my food, and coffee is pretty much a staple at every hunting camp.

I decided not to overdo it with too many flavors in my pot, so I stuck to the basics and added some brown sugar to sweeten it a bit. Brown sugar will complement the barbeque sauce I will be adding to the hog later to make sandwiches, as will the chili powder.

The end result is the recipe below. We love it and hope you will, too.

Pulled pork from a wild hog

The wild hog is so tender it is easy to flake apart using two forks. (Photo: Tracy Schmidt)

Ingredients:

Wild hog portion
2 cups coffee
1/2 cup chopped onion
2 tablespoon brown sugar
Dusting of chili powder to taste
2 teaspoons minced garlic
Salt
Pepper
Barbeque sauce
Buns

Instructions:

Salt and pepper, then place wild hog ham or boneless shoulder roast in slow cooker. Add 2 cups of coffee to the cooker, making sure to pour it over the hog. Dust the meat with chili powder, then coat with brown sugar, garlic and onion. Cook for 6-8 hours on low heat. Allow to sit for 10 minutes to let the meat absorb some of the juices once it is removed from the cooker. Shred with a pair of forks and mix in your favorite barbeque sauce. Serve over high-quality sandwich rolls.


About Tracy L. Schmidt:

Tracy Schmidt headhsotTracy L. Schmidt is a certified master food preservation specialist and the author of the book “Venison Wisdom.” Each of her recipes is tested and perfected. She is married to Daniel Schmidt, editor in chief of Deer & Deer Hunting magazine and host of “Deer & Deer Hunting TV” on NBC Sports. Tracy enjoys the versatility of Havalon Knives in both the kitchen and the field.


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Posted in Big Game Hunting, Guest Writers, Hog Hunting, How To, Recipes & Cooking, Tracy Schmidt | Tagged , , , | Comments Off on Recipe: High-Octane Wild Hog